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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Features of processing and Assembly of fur collars

Processing fur collar 

In collars loose flesh side is applied a pad of cotton cloth and put it on the blindstitch machine or hand stitches, placing first place in the middle of collar, parallel to the counter or the departure, the next - at a distance of 3 - 4 cm from one another. Collar check and clarify the patterns. If on the model the collar has tuck, they cut and sew on the furrier's machine.

The collars with a durable, but easily expandable leather strip is attached only along the edge of the stands in the form of strips of cotton fabric or braid, to prevent the collar from stretching. The tapes scribbled on sanding the car with a little tension at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the rack. In the collars of Tigaki edge in front of you can not participate. 

Treatment of the lower collar 

For men's winter coat collar at the bottom lay a layer of cotton wool of different thickness in the corners and leaving more rack less. Cotton layer is applied the gasket and primetyvajut it in a circle at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edges on a special machine or manual stitches. Instead of wool you can use batting, foam thickness 5 - 8 mm. In winter coats for boys nursery and preschool ages lower collar process without an additional layer of insulation gaskets.

Stitch the bottom of the collar is performed on the sanding machine of straight lines parallel to the ends of the collar or at an angle of 15 30' to the seam; spacing between lines of 0.5 - 0.7 cm In children products to increase this distance up to 1.2 - 1.5 cm Lower collars for fur collars in the women's coat are treated the same way as in light coats. 

If collar with a low hairline and a thin membrane, the lower collar is applied a layer of batting, which is sewn on the blindstitch machine.

When connecting the bottom of the collar with an adhesive strip her pre-scribbled on a pad of cotton wool or wadding zig-zag lines on the sanding machine. The distance between the angles of the lines of 3.5 - 4 cm Surplus of cotton batting cut and the gasket is connected to podvorotnya first sanding on the car at the crest line of the rack, and then press. 

After the connection of the lower collar precise mold control and cause the notch to connect with the collar. 

The connection of the moss collar with the bottom collar

Fur collar connecting the departure with the lower collar obecnym seam sanding or furrier machine patch seam zig-zag stitching, and the ends of - hand stitches. 

 Obecnym seam making machine (Fig. 58, a) details connect the following way. Fur fold collar with the bottom collar hair to the side of the main fabric of the lower collar and grind making machine in two stages starting from the middle of the collar, not reaching the slices stand for 1 see, When grinding the edge of the fur collar pokazyvajut. Straighten the seam, turn the collar and spawn on a special machine or hand stitches, forming the edge with a width of 0.2 - 0.3 see the collars with stiff membrane edge is not. spawn, it make spusku manual stitches from the bottom of the collar.

 Obecnym seam sanding machine the collar with the lower collar connects in the same way as in the Assembly of the collar of the main fabric (Fig. 58, b). Straighten the seam and departure scribbled on the lower collar at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from seams grinding, and then turn and spawn. 

 Patch seam (Fig. 58, C) a collar connected to the lower collar in that order. The collar is placed on the lower collar on the markup and scribbled zigzag stitching. If the collar has sharp corners, scribbled only by flying away, and the ends of the collar stitched manual slanted stitches. The lower collar is covered with a layer of wool, primitiva her blindstitch machine or manually. Then fur collar bend on the lower collar edge of the collar and straighten zametyvayut on a special machine at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the edges.

Treatment of the shoulder seams

To ensure that slack back in the blades, in addition to the top tucks at the shoulder sections of the back, often provides for landing. So shoulder seams sew side shelves seam width 1.0 cm. Landing on the back is distributed evenly in the middle part of the seam. Flatlock perform along with side pads or without them. Seams rautureau. 

In models with nastronie seams shoulder seams rautureau, then iron in the back side and scribbled.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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