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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Features of processing and Assembly of the various sleeves casual

Raglan sleeves 

Raglan Sleeves can be one-piece (with the tuck in the shoulder area), double seam and gusset pouches. The handling of such sleeves is composed of the seams and lower edges. Technical conditions for processing are the same as in the processing of casting sleeves. 

Raglan sleeves connect with the product after grinding of the side sections, before the setting of the collar. To protect the openings from stretching pave the adhesive edge or pritachivajut linen at a distance of 0.5 - 0.6 cm from the edge. Stachivaya sleeve in the armhole without ultimania or pre ultimanium seam width 1.0 cm (if the seam bridging).

When the setting sleeve pokazyvajut. The magnitude and location of the planting depend on the design of the sleeve. So, in coat free. form fit sleeveless small coat semi-fitted silhouette fit much more.

The value of landings also depends on the properties of the fabric. For fabrics with low shrinkage provides for landing at the rate of 0.1 cm for every 1 cm of length of the area in front of the openings, and 0.15 cm in back of the openings and in the area below the elbow joint. For soft tissues with greater shrinkage fit is increased to 0.15 cm 1.0 cm armhole at the front of the armhole and up to 0.2 cm at the back of the armhole. The side sections of the seams or rautureau rautureau and iron.

Sections of the side strips connected with the seams of the sleeves Tachibana: when bridging a seam - marking on the machine, with gastrocrom - blindstitch machine with a hand strip. 

Sleeves, tselnokrajnie with shelves and backs 

, These sleeves are widely distributed in the models of women's coats. The sleeve has two seams: average - in the continuation of the shoulder seam and the bottom in continuation of the side seam. For ease of movement of the arms, these sleeves are doing with the gussets in a diamond shape or with an additional bottom of the sleeve in the form of a wedge or a barrel, ending with a gusset.

The processing of the sleeves start with primaqiune strips (calico, calico) around the edges of the slits of the backrest and shelves (Fig. 62, a) to strengthen the corners of vrachevanie gussets. The line performed at a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices. The details of the sleeve is formed by wet-heat processing. The areas and magnitude of delays or suteki depend on the design of the product.

If the sleeve has a gusset in the form of a wedge (Fig. 62, b), at the beginning it pritachivajut to the back, then to the shelf, at the same time grinding off the side sections of the seam width 1.0 cm. At the ends of the cuts on the back and the shelves round out the line. Seams rautureau. Then sew the top seams of the sleeves, rautureau and iron them toward the front halves of the sleeves. The bottom of sleeves processed in accordance with the model. 

Sleeves lower seams coinciding with side seams of the product

These sleeves are treated in the following way. The sleeves connect with the product before the connection of the side sections, after treatment of the shoulder sections and vrachevanie collar in the neck. To the junction of the sleeves with the open armhole treated with the upper or elbow section and bottom of sleeves (uncuffed). Stachivaya sleeves from the sleeves, aligning the notch and landing in accordance with the design; then grind and rautureau simultaneously lower seams of sleeves and side seams of the product.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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