The accelerated development of the chemical industry greatly expanded raw material base garment factories due to the receipt of new fabrics with different content of fibers, the duplicated and non-woven fabric, artificial fur and leather. All of these tissues and materials possess a number of specific features that should be considered in the simulation, design and manufacturing of products.
Fabrics with chemical fibers
Fabrics, containing a variety of chemical fiber feature high strength, light weight and wrinkle resistance during wear of the products. A characteristic feature of these fabrics is small stygiana, which eliminates the shaping of the clothes due to the properties of the fabric. This necessitates the creation of such forms of clothes that provide a good fit and do not require significant wet-heat processing.
In the processing of fabrics with chemical fibers can cause wrinkles by tightening of the sutures and fusion of tissue as a result of heating of the needle. To avoid puckering of the seams, the details of the product to grind on special machines with deviating needles, providing non-stop line. To cool the needle used wetting thread organosilicone preparation.
When the wet-heat treatment of fabrics with chemical fibers requires strict compliance with the compaction (see table. 5).
Wrong choice of compaction reduces the quality of the products and leads to hidden or visible destruction of tissue structures.
Fabric impregnated
At present, the domestic apparel industry mastered the production of products made of fabrics with special impregnation, which provides crease-resistance products in the socks.
This method of machining is called "tornis" - shaping nesminaemoy products. The method of "furnis" can be used in the manufacture of trousers, blouses, dresses, men's shirts, raincoats, sports wear of cotton fabrics.
Products made by the method of "fornis", sustainable to preserve the given shape. During the modeling and design of these products enhances the creation of models of cotton fabrics using different types of finishing (folds, pleats, etc.) remaining after washing and chemical cleaning.
When processing products flatlock seams produce mainframe computers, followed by overcast seams or smachiwausa-overlock machines. The numbers of needles and thread, a frequency line is determined according to GOST 12807 - 67. Wet-heat treatment of products produced with hydration. The temperature of iron should not be above 140'S. In the application of steam-steam presses, vacuum suction of the residual moisture from the product, the pressing time to 30 s.
After the wet-heat treatment of the finished product on the mobile brackets is loaded into a heat chamber TKF-1, which produces the thermofixation of size, fixing the form and wrinkle resistance of the product. The dwell time in the heat chamber due to the established modes. Then, the product is kept (cool) and sewing accessories.
When processing method "fornis" there are different defects, one of which is nerazumljivo folds, the creases that are unacceptable in the finished product. This requires a more careful performance of Ironing operations.
Faux leather
To the artificial skin will take painuly (imitation leather clothing) and textability used for the manufacture of men's and women's coats, jackets, etc. they are all cloth coated PVC mass. Clothes paminola and textamerica has a number of positive properties: water resistant, the ability for a long period of time to preserve its shape, easy to clean from contamination, etc.
wide range of colors and shades in combination with a modern silhouette makes clothing out of these materials elegant and fashionable.
Along with this lack of drapability of the materials allows us to create clothes only straight cut, the necessary form is achieved through the design detail of the product.
In the manufacture of clothing from these materials is no wet-heat treatment, as by heating to 70 - 80'S PVC weight slightly compressed, and at a temperature of 180 - 190'C melt; therefore, the products of the iron-only lining.
Clothes from ravinala and TextEvent process thread seams: bridging, topstitched patch of different widths. Joints perform on the machines non-stop Seam with excess legs, guide lines and other appliances and equipment of minor mechanization. So when performing lines, these materials are easily cut, you must meet the following conditions: frequency line - to - 3 stitch 1 cm, the needles to machines No. 110 and 130, thread no 30, 40 and 50.
Faux fur
Faux fur produced by the domestic industry for woven and knitted based and is used for manufacturing and finishing women's and children's coats, sports jackets, etc.
When modeling and designing of products of faux fur take into account the presence of hair, as it clearly marked in the joints of the parts; it is therefore advisable to create models without side seams, with shift podborany, collar and other details to reduce the number of seams. Fur cut out in the floor for 8 - 12 canvases, with each canvas down pile.
The details of each product for kids with respect to the direction of the pile in equity or transverse direction of fabric. When cutting fur on a knitted base parts are arranged in the transverse direction of the fabric, to stitch the rows less stretched.
After cutting the fur for protection of slices from fraying and stretching during processing and socks products based on cross-sections of parts of pave edge, or a strip of cloth with single-sided glue application.
The fur on the basis of woven strips of fabric are laid on the sides, shoulder cut, the armholes, and sections of the neck and the fur on a knitted base - on cross-sections of all parts.
In products with a shift podborany edge lay in the folds of the sides.
At processing of the products the joints produce sanding machine, seam width 1.0 cm, at a furrier or on the machine with zigzag stitching - seams with a width of 0.3 - 0.4 cm Furrier machine provides a more elastic seam.
After grinding the seams to straighten the pile at the seams with a special device.
The numbers of needles and threads and the frequency of the lines is determined according to GOST 12807 - 67 "sewing".
Product of artificial fur used to insulate the lining of wool batting in a single layer for the bottom of the product, or ending this layer 15 - 20cm below the waist line (depending on style).
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