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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Handling the top of the collar and connecting it with the lower collar

Treatment of the upper collar 

, the upper collar of the Processing performed as follows: the collar of the main fabric and is moistened produisait with the aim of decamerone, and then obmeleet mold and cut to give it the final shape. If the fabric without a pattern, the collars are cut in batches, if the pattern, which requires trimming, cut each collar. 

Collars for products made of silk, cotton and rubber fabrics are not pre-treated.

The collar of the Jersey before connecting with the lower collar on the ends and leave scribbled on a pad of calico or calico on the sanding machine.

Connecting the upper collar with the lower collar 

Connecting the upper collar with the lower collar performed before or after vrachevanie lower collar into the neck of the product. When this is used as a thread, and adhesive bonding. The connection to vrachevanie lower collar into the neckline, you can run the edge seams of two types: obecnym seam or hem the edges of the collar around the lower sections of the collar. 

 Connection obecnym seam. The surgery is performed on a special machine type 20B CL. PMZ or sanding machine with advanced namachivayam. This collar is applied face down on the front side of podvorotnya and namachivajut on the edges of ledges and departure on a special machine or manual stitches at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge. When namatanai collar pokazyvaut in the corners by 0.5 - 0.7 cm to create slack on the education of the edge of the collar.The fit of the collar sativum, corners marked on the pattern and the collar will be turned on the car with a knife seam width 0.3 - 0.4 cm in the processing of the edges of the collar finishing line or a width of 0.6 - 0.7 cm at the edges without stitch finishing (clean edge).

When grinding occurs, the landing collar, the magnitude of which is controlled by ndsatcom. Seam grinding rautureau on a special block with an iron or press. 

The collars without the finishing stitches of the seam, grinding of the collar connect with seal adhesive tape, sanding machine, blindstitch machine hand-stitch or slant. Also allowed processing of a collar without fastening oblasnogo seam.

When connecting the adhesive film is applied on the edges of the lower collar from the strip, positioning the outer edge of the film at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam stitching around the collar (Fig. 55, a). 

To secure to the sanding machine the seam straightened and scribbled on the lower collar at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the line.

To connect with hidden stitching the slices bend toward the bottom of the collar to form the edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 55, b) and join them to the strip. Then turn the collar, straightening the edges, and spawn with the formation of the edge of collar width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm on a special machine.

Collar priorivet and scribbled in accordance with the model. For products made of cotton, silk and rubber fabrics finishing line perform without prior buttonhole and hot. If the collar is scribbled to its connection with the product, finishing the finish line at a distance of 3 to 4 cm from sections of the collar. 

 Coupling seam with hem the edges of the collar. The edges of the collar attached to the lower collar of departure and ends (or only at departure) by car zigzag or blind stitch, machine sanding, and hand-held oblique or cross stitches. When working on a machine zigzag stitch to the lower collar on the front side on a curve put a line overlay collar at a distance of 1 - 1.2 cm from the edges. The collar is applied to the lower collar at the line and scribbled. If the collar with sharp corners, scribbled only on departure (Fig. 56, a), if the collar has no sharp edges,- on the ends and fly away, not reaching the slices stand 2 - 3 cm.

The folded collar to the lower collar around a section of its sections, the edges of zametyvayut on timetoknow machine or manually at a distance of 0.8 - 1.0 cm from the edge. Nastrojenije the ends of the collar are sewn blind stitch manual stitches (Fig. 5B, b). 

Fastening of seams internal stitching in this case is not produced. 

When working on the hidden blind stitch machine type stitch 44 CL. PMZ namachivajut collar to the lower collar edge of the collar zametyvayut, and then sew on the machine.

Sanding machine is used for handling collar of the jacket. The collar is applied to the lower collar, combining slices of departures and grind seam with the width of 0,5 cm and Then the collar folded to the side, straightening the seam, and scribbled on the fly at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam grinding. The departure of the collar spawn on a special machine, collar priorivet (Fig. 57).



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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