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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Initial processing of the basic details of the pants

PROCESSING AND collection of TROUSER 

Pants as well as skirts include a waist to a dress, their processing it is possible to identify the same nodes. However, the processing methods have large differences due to the significant difference in structures. 

Depending on the destination, style of pants and the fabrics used, the design of the pants can be different, but the processing sequence is the same: the initial processing of the basic details, pocketing, machining fasteners and upper edges, machining the bottom of the pants. 

INITIAL PROCESSING OF THE BASIC DETAILS OF THE PANTS

To initial treatment for key parts of trousers are making Darts, pleats and wet-heat processing. 

 Processing front halves of trousers. On forward halves of trousers of different styles can be one or two Darts or pleats. They are treated the same as a tuck on shelves and backs coat, jacket and other products. Some models split the left front tuck half pants treated time pocket. The upper part of the front halves of trousers priorivet, sautieva tuck pleats.

The front halves of the men's trousers of wool fabric treated with a silk lining for protection of the front halves from stretching in the knee region. Therefore, the lining already cut out the front halves of 0.4 - 0.6 cm shorter, 10 - 15, see the Lower sections of the lining are treated with a seam itagiba with a closed cut on a sanding machine, overlock seam on a special machine or zigzag cutting. Lining produisait with the aim of deleteroute tissue. On the front halves of trousers stack lining, stack the slices and overcast them on a special machine.Side-stepping sections and overcast together with lining: the side sections from the bottom to the lower notch of the pocket (if the pocket in the side seam); front (box) cut the right half, the left - stepping of the slice to the bottom of the clasp. On the front left halves of the slice are paving the adhesive edge at a distance of 1 cm from it. Nechaevu edge pritachivajut, obtachivaya the front section lining.

 Processing rear halves of the pants. If the rear halves of the trousers with extensions, them pritachivajut bridging a seam width of 1 cm and Then treated with tuck. In models of pants with straps for easy size adjustment belt when stitching tucks stachivaya on nadechka buckled tabs.

One of the critical operations is a wet-heat treatment of the rear halves of the pants to give the details of the pants large. Depending on the style of pants (narrow, wide) and design for the parts wet-heat treatment for key parts of trousers performed in different ways. Trouser is of standard design and an average width of wet-heat treatment of the rear halves of the pants is the following. 

In manual processing the halves of the pants are folded together, right sides inside, stepping to the working sections and the top sections of the left (Fig. 74, a).

Delay in the processing of medium-sized slices (bottom) at 2 - 3 cm of slack Formed in the upper part of the stepper sections staiway to the middle of the width of the halves of trousers. Pulling and sutivana perform on the part of both sides of the pants to get the same shape of the part (Fig. 74 b). Then the rear halves of the pants gives the final shape, folding each of them separately face inside and equating the side and stepping slices. The rear halves of the pants iron on bends and storevault slack at the top of the bend (Fig. 74, in).

Models very tight pants to shape and put the front halves of trousers, delaying and side stepping cuts below the knee length 1.2 - 1.5 cm this Operation is carried out simultaneously on the two front halves of trousers, clipping the resulting shape with the sides of both parts. The side sections when the guy smoothly moved in the direction of the stepper sections.

After the guy slices the halves of the trousers separated and further processing is performed on each detail separately. Halves of the pants are folded along the mid-line face inward, combining a stepper and the side sections in the lower part; in upper part of the step cut must protrude beyond the lateral 1.2 - 2.0 cm Bend slightly priorivet parts, the lower part from the knee to bottom of pants slightly sativum, forming a smooth deflection of the fold line corresponding to the SAG of the tibia of the front legs.

When processing on press the rear and front halves, folded, face, inside, placed on a special bottom cushion. When pressing the halves of the trousers acquire a predetermined shape.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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