In the initial processing of the shelves includes treatment of joints, creating pleats and Darts. In products without a lining. lining made of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue in the initial processing includes processing of slices.
Processing of the shelves of two parts
These shelves typically consist of front and side parts that connect bridging, lapped tongue or other joints. Details grind off, equating the notch from the side to the front of shelves along the guide bar, seam width of 1 cm Seams rautureau. If the seams usautoco or nastronie, then iron them further in the direction of the Board, and scribbled.
In the products of adjacent silhouette for better fit side of the shelves draw in the waist. Pulling performed simultaneously on two parts of the folded, right sides inward, alternately from one and the other part to complete the rectification of the side sections.
Treatment folds
the Treatment of the folds described above (see here).
Treatment tucks
Tuck in shelves can be cut and uncut.
Split in the female products can be a top tuck, men's side. Slices of Darts combine and grind off the seam width 0.7 cm, gradually reducing the width of the joint and reducing it to zero by 1 - 1.5 cm below the end of the section. The upper end of the tuck is fixed reverse stitching.
When grinding the ends of the Darts enclose the segments of wool, cotton fabrics, nonwoven, etc. the length of the segments 5 - 6 cm (Fig. 25, a). Strips out for the lower ends of the recesses at 1 - 1.5 cm From the end line on one side of the tuck planted the strip cut. Seams tucks rautureau (Fig. 25, b) or rautureau first, and then iron to the side of the neck. At the same time storevault slack formed in the ends of the seams. The ends of the Darts can be secured by gluing strips of edging fabric.
Continuous tuck grind, bending the shelf guidelines. In this line enclose a strip of woolen, cotton fabric or nonwoven fabric with a width of 2 - 2.5 cm, letting it 1 - 2 cm beyond the ends of the tuck (Fig. 25). Iron the dart to one side and stripes the other (Fig. 25, g) a bulge in the end of the string sativum.
Tuck into a pleat, mark three lines, and grind to a transverse line marking, fixing of the upper and lower ends of the double reverse stitching (Fig. 25, d). Tuck iron to side cut side on the shelves or in the direction of the mid - back.
Tuck - tucks sew along the line marking, securing the ends with double reverse stitching (Fig. 25, e) and iron. To maintain the shape of the tucks-the tucks, after autoimune from the inside of the shelves impose a strip of cotton fabric and sew her stitches hidden in the folds of the Darts. The ends of the strip pritachivajut to the side sections of the shelves.
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