Interior pockets, as well as outdoor, very varied in design, particularly in men's products.
In products for men and boys inside pockets Welt process or in the connecting joints on the shelves lining, as well as in podborta. For processing the edges of an incision are used, the piping of the lining or the main fabric.
The process of making the pockets consists of parts processing and Assembly pocket. All pockets handle with Velcro loops and buttons.
The hinges are made from strips of lining fabric or tape. A strip of cloth along the middle of the bend and bending the cuts inward to 0.4 - 0.5 cm, scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge.
Hinges, made from processed strips fixed transverse stitching at the ends and three lines in the corner (Fig. 39, a).
Pocketing the leaves of lining fabric
To handle the leaf on burlap applied strips of lining fabric wrong side up and pritachivajut seam width 0.7 cm Strip a so that the distance from line to the upper edge of the burlap was equal to the width of the leaves on the model. A strip of lining fabric folded in the direction of the upper edge of the burlap wrap around it and priorivet. The thus treated part is the leaves, the gasket is a layer of burlap.
Pocket mark three lines on the auxiliary pattern. The leaf is applied to the shelf lining the top edge toward the bottom of the cut shelves and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam primaqiune the leaves to the burlap.
On the other side of the line of markup to the shelf pritachivajut the second part of the burlap with the valance seam width 1.0 cm. Distance between the lines should equal the width of the leaves. Shelves lining cut in the middle between the lines. The ends of the incision is performed under an angle to the lines. The burlap inside out, the pocket and straighten the burlap grind, simultaneously securing the ends of the pocket (Fig. 39, b). For greater strength the pockets on the front side to do the stitching on the sides of the leaf over the seam primaqiune valance.When performing this operation, enclose dolevik at the end of the leaves, facing the openings (Fig. 39).
Pocketing the two obrazkami
to improve appearance and to strengthen the edge of the pockets in jackets and men's coats, pockets process one or two obrazkami of the main fabric (Fig. 40).
The ends of the pocket feature: one - side cut lining, the second (side) - cut armholes, seam primaqiune wedge, tuck, or inside shelves, not bringing it to the slices.
If the second end of the pocket does not reach slices, for processing two mark obrazkami pockets lined shelves three lines: two lengthwise and one across. Transverse line defines the end of the pocket of the openings.
Scribbled on the burlap valance, bending their lower cut-off at 0.7 cm and equating the top with the cut burlap. On one side of the piping outlining the border width (0.7 to 1.5 cm). The lower facing scribbled on the upper edge at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold.
Top bend facing in half lengthwise on the front side and scribbled on the burlap valances with a stitch width of 2 cm from the fold, investing in the middle of the loop. The lower facing pritachivajut to the second edge of the burlap seam with a width of 0.7 cm, bend in half and scribbled at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold.
Piping connect at the folds and secured on side sections of double reverse stitching.
Burlap pockets sew on three sides. On obtachka mark the line of primaqiune. A shelf cut in the middle between the longitudinal lines ending in a slit at an angle thereto at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the lateral and 0.2 cm from the longitudinal lines.
Previously made the pocket pritachivajut to the lining, aligning the marking line on obtachka and lining and enclosing dolevik under the ends of the pocket.
At both ends of the pockets in accordance with the size of the product piping connects with clips on a special machine. Pocket priorivet iron or press.
Treatment pocket is easier if the side end goes into the cut armhole or seam primaqiune wedge.
In this case, processing is performed in the following order. Piping folded with each other, right sides and sew in the middle from the layout lines to the ends of obracac (Fig. 41, a). Piping bend line grinding and priorivet (Fig. 41, b). Bend the lower piping scribbled at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. To the lower facing pritachivajut seam width 0.7 cm the bottom part of the burlap with the bottom of the lining. Then under the piping enclose the second part of the burlap with woodcarving. Between them put a loop, and the upper facing scribbled on the burlap.Upper lining shelves pritachivajut to the upper facing. The burlap grind off around the seam width of 1 see Assembly Diagram of the pocket is given in Fig. 41, V.
Pocketing one facing of the main fabric
Lining shelves cut out of two parts: upper and lower. On the bottom shelves scribbled a factory stamp. The facing of the fabric top bend in half along the part and iron, then it is marked with three transverse lines: two lines define the ends of the pocket, the third is the position of the loops to fasten the pocket button.
Then the facing is placed on the upper section of a lower part of lining up slices, Sergo impose burlap, combining all the slices and grind off investing in the middle of the length of piping between the facing and sacking a loop of fabric or braid.
To the top of the shelves pritachivajut the bottom part of the burlap seam with a width of 0,7 cm. the Lower part of the shelves facing applied to the upper part of the shelf and connect them by marking two transverse lines, the upper edge of the transverse lines to the side sections of piping.
Then grind off the burlap pocket. Assembly scheme of the pocket is given in Fig. 42.
Machining pockets in the ribs of podborov
In the winter and demi-season coat, in which the inner sections of podborov and sections of the hem is edged with strips of lining fabric, inside pockets handle in the ribs of podborov. (Fig. 43). To save material, this projection is often cut out in the form of additional details to podborta. In this case, the protrusion pritachivajut to podborta before processing it or after treatment. Machining of the pocket is the following.
Pockets podborta partitioned by the auxiliary pattern by three lines: one along and two across the ends of the pockets. From the inside of podborov enclose the lower part of the burlap, raciology her top and side sections of 2 - 2.5 cm for the line marking. Piping made of lining fabric bend 0.7 cm towards the wrong side, placing them near the bend longitudinal line marking pockets, and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from it. To participate on the car with a knife.
Podborta cut between the lines, slicing corners in ends, not leading to cut lines at 0.1 cm Piping twist, bend around their cut edges and scribbled in the seams primaqiune. The free edge of the lower piping bends by 0.7 cm and scribbled on the burlap. The bottom part of the burlap with Potsdam pritachivajut to the top edge of the pocket in the seam grinding. At the same time under the line slip loop by placing it in the middle.
The ends of the pockets straighten and fix, primativa them to burlap double reverse stitching. At the same time grind off the edges of the burlap. At the ends of the pockets put the tack on a special machine, placing a lateral end of dolevik aimed at armhole.
Processing of the pockets with leaves, lined, quilted with insulation strip
Such pockets are made in men's products. Pockets are marked and treated burlap in the same way as in the pocket on the lining. Leaves bend in half with wrong side inside, putting in the middle of a strip of cotton fabric. Leaves scribbled on the edge at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm To the lower parts of the leaf pritachivajut the burlap seam with a width of 0,7 cm. On pieces of paper mark out the line of primaqiune to the shelf and line bending in the lateral ends. The ends of the leaves are cut, leaving a seam allowance on ACC width of 0.7 - 1.0 cm.
The treated leaves pritachivajut to the shelves lining. At a distance of 1 cm from the seam primaqiune leaf pritachivajut the second part of the burlap with the valances. Shelves cut, burlap turn towards the inside, straightening leaves, and scribbled for fixing parallel to the seams primaqiune. The sides of the leaf bends at the lines and scribbled two lines: the first at a distance of 0.2 cm from inflection, the second at a distance of 1 cm When nastraivanie the end of the leaves the openings at the same time pritachivajut dolevik, directing it towards armholes.Burlap pockets sew a seam width of 1 cm.
Handle internal pockets in women's products
In the women's products lined Welt pockets are not used. Internal pockets in a seam protecive lining to the inner sections of podborov. The processing of such pockets is as follows.
One part burlap scribbled a factory stamp by bending the edges on three sides by 0.7 cm and having 1 cm below the upper edge of the burlap.
Burlap pocket sew a seam 1 cm wide, not reaching the ends of 1 cm, and pritachivajut to the onboard slice right shelves lining seam 1 cm wide, placing it between nasecki.
Obtekanii the edge of the burlap straighten and scribbled on a machine with zig-zag stitching, which secures the edge of the pocket and at the same time decorates it. In products from expensive fabrics to finish the edge of the pocket using ruffles. Cuts burlap overcast. Priorivet pockets together with lining.
|