In the manufacture of clothing items call for slices, combine the notch and weld seams of various kinds. The seams by the method of execution are divided into thread and glue. 

 Thread seam represents the connection parts of one or a few lines. The thread in the stitching should be evenly tightened. 

 Glue joints (connection details) is produced by hot pressing parts between which a layer of adhesive material. The seams joining parts must comply with the constructive lines of clothing and have no curvature. The quality of the adhesive joints of a garment depends on the correct definition of temperature, pressure, time of compaction, and thickness of the adhesive layer depending on the type of fabric and purpose of the seams. 

In design and purpose, the stitches are divided into connective, edge and finishing. The connecting joints are used for fastening clothing items; regional - the registration of the edges and prevention of tissue slices from fraying yarns; finishing , for finishing of parts. 

Joints perform a variety of widths depending on the appearance of the treated fabric and requirements to technical requirements. The width of the bead is determined by the distance from the line to the line of cut fabric according to GOST 12807 - 67. 

Joints

joints are bridging, topstitched, nastronie, invoices, butt joints, double lapped, the seams in the castle and smachiwausa-overlock. 

 Bridging the seam (Fig. 5, a, b) is the most commonly used in the manufacture of clothes of different fabrics. The seam is used to connect the main parts, e.g., shelves with backrest and to connect the parts of the lining. Bridging the seam width can be different and depends on the kind of fabrics and technical requirements.

In the skiving of parts of upper and lining seam width is taken as 1.0 cm; when participarii supers to detail the top of easypayday tissue 0.5 cm from crumbling tissue - 0.7 cm; with grinding of the split tucks detail on the top is 0.7 cm, and lined - 1.0 cm.

To obtain a seam the same width in the mass production of clothing is used for various line-guides or presser foot with guide bumpers. 

 Topstitched seam (Fig. 5) widely used in the manufacture of clothing of fabrics and materials that can not be ironed (rubberized fabric, artificial leather, etc.). When the joint parts are folded face inward and connect bridging the seam, then the seam is laid out on both sides and fixed lines, i.e. rasstraivaet. On the front side of the fabric stitch rasstraivaet are the finishing lines of parts. 

 Nastroni seam (Fig. 5, g, d, e) serves to connect the parts and at the same time for finishing the product. Such joints are used in the manufacture of coats, suits, raincoats (nastraivanie side and shoulder seams, elbow joints of the sleeves, etc.), as well as the implementation of reliefs, folds, etc. 

Nastronie seams can be closed and open sections and unfastened edges.

When you run nastroennogo seam with open sections of the part folded face inward, equalize the slices and grind. Then seam rautureau and iron in the side of the part, which will Topstitch the seam. Seam scribbled on the front side of the fabric. Distance of the finishing line of the seam from the piecing together of 0.2 - 2.5 cm depending on the purpose of the seam and style of the product. 

When you run nastrojkah and topstitched seams with outdoor sections width of the grinding parts should be 0,5 cm larger than the width of the finishing stitches.

When you run nastroennogo seam with closed sections of the part folded inside out but the planned line and grind, perepuska the edge of the lower part with respect to the upper by an amount equal to the width of the finishing stitches. Rautureau seam, then iron and scribbled on the front side of the part.

Sometimes in the manufacture of outerwear used nastroni the seam unfastened edge. In this case, the details of the fold right sides inwards and smatyvay on the planned line, then sew, cut and iron the seam from the front side perform a finishing line. Place of matiwane removed and the seam priorivet. 

To get smooth lines usually apply a special foot and guides, rulers. 

 Patch seam (Fig. 5, W), used when processing gaskets, perform the following way. One slice is superimposed on the other by 1.0 cm and sew on a universal machine or a zigzag stitch on the machine PMZ 26 CL., having the line in the middle.

The slip joint can be performed with a closed cut (Fig. 5, W'), i.e., cut a single part that bends by an amount depending on the purpose of the seam and kind of used tissues. Bent edge parts is applied to another part on the planned line or ndsatcom and perform the stitching. Distance of the finishing line from the bent region of 0.2 - 0.5 cm seam allowance fabric at the seam is 0,5 - 1,5 cm 

 Seam at the butt (Fig. 5.) perform the following way. Sections of the two parts butt attach two lines to the strip of cloth with a width of 3 to 4 cm (calico, silk, etc.), and the edges of the cut parts connect the zigzag stitching.

Seam does not require the wet-heat treatment, does not have bulges, which makes it indispensable in the processing side of the strip in the products of thin fabrics. 

A butt seam can be accomplished by using adhesive strips of fabric with a width of 2.0 - 2.5 cm (Fig. 5). In this case, the manufacturer of the seam is greatly simplified: the engine lines are not required, the adhesive fabric is glued with a flat iron. 

 Lapped seam (Fig, 5, K, l) is basic in the manufacture of linen and products of a cotton fabric without lining. When the joint parts are folded, right sides inside, releasing cut of the bottom part 0.5 - 0.7 cm; slice the top part and wrap around the edge of the lower part and sew the seam width 0.4 - 0.6 cm and Then stefannie details are laid out face down, folded the seam allowance of the seam, straighten the fabric and lay lapped the line at a distance of 0.1 - 0.15 cm from the bent edges of a part. The width of the seam in the finished form of 0.4 - 0.5 cm, These seams are hygienic and durable.For straight lines use a special foot-suposively.

 The seam in the castle (Fig. 5, m) is a variation of lapped seam. The seam is performed on the two needle machine with fixture-switch, which is bending inside a tissue section, allows to perform simultaneously sanding and lapped lines. Form a seam with the front and inside are the same. The seam in the castle stronger and more hygienic bridging; it is used in the manufacture of men's shirts, underwear, workwear, sports equipment, and other products. 

 Double seam(Fig. 5, n) used in the manufacture of bed linen, made of fine cotton and silk fabrics and the processing of your pockets and other products unlined. 

When the joint parts are folded wrong side inside, stack the slices and grind off the seam width 0.3 - 0.5 cm; then the parts are turned inside, straighten the seam and perform a second line at a distance of 0.6 - 0.7 cm from the outer edge of the seam. Thus, the sections of the seam are closed. 

 Smachiwausa-blanket stitch used in the manufacture of men's and children's shirts made of various cloth as well as linen for babies and toddlers. The seam is a type of joints used in the processing of linen shirts and products. When you run this seam details of the fold, right sides inside, stack the slices and grind off the seam width of 0.6 - 0.8 cm on special machines domestic (797 C. OSSM) or foreign production.The connection of the parts by stitching of a chain stitch simultaneously cutting edge and buttonhole thread overcasting stitching that ensures high durability and elasticity of a seam when worn.

Edge joints 

edge joints are used for finishing and protection of cut parts from fraying threads. There are the following regional seams: itagiba, framing and obtenue. 

 Seam bodybu may be open, closed or piped sections. 

 Seam itagiba the open cut (Fig. 6, a) is used in the design of the bottom of products made of thick fabric (women's coats, skirts) . To perform this seam the edge of the part bend inside the intended line and zastrugivajut or zametyvayut, and then fix the blind stitch stitches. To obtain an even seam, use a special foot.

 Seam bodybu closed cut (Fig. 6, b) used in the processing of clothing (the design of the bottom lining of products) and the manufacture of dresses and underwear (the bottom of the dress, skirts, men's shirts, etc.). The edge of the part bend inside out first, 0.5 - 0.7 cm, then bends again and zastrugivajut on the sanding machine or zametyvayut and fix blind stitch stitches. 

The width of the inner and outer Pochinok seam depends on the type and destination of the product. When sewing linen products use foot-switches, providing roveto internal and external Pochinok tissue. 

 Seam itagiba with an angled cut (Fig. 6) used in the manufacture of outerwear (the design of the bottom coat, podborov, etc.). Cut parts in such seams first edging strip of lining fabric or tape, which is applied to the edge of the front side details, call for cuts and pritachivajut seam width 0.3 - 0.4 cm Then the seam tightly envelop the strip and lay the stitching in the seam of primaqiune strips. The edge of the part with machined cut along the bend line on the underside of the part and zametyvayut straight stitch length 2.5 - 3.0 cm by hand or on a special machine. 

 Edging seam sometimes with open cut edging, with a closed cut edging and braid.

 Bound seam open-cut (Fig. 6, g, d) apply for registration of the cut parts of the upper clothing (the bottom of the products, the inner sections of podborov etc.), as well as for edging stitches. To obtain such a seam is cut out of lining fabric (in the color of the fabric the top of the product) strip width of 2.5 - 3.0 cm in the direction of the weft thread (transverse) or at an angle of 45' to the warp threads (slash). When the joint a strip of cloth applied to the face front side details, and pritachivajut the seam width is 0.3 - 0.4 cm, then the seam of the wrap around bar and zastrugivajut in the seam of her primaqiune. 

 Edging seam with a shut cut (Fig. 6, e) used in the manufacture of light dresses and linen (piping edges. the neck, armholes, zipper, frills, flounces, etc.). A strip of cloth for edging cut out twice the width, i.e. a width of 5.0 - 6.0 cm These joints perform in the same way as the open-cut, strip only pritachivajut folded in half. 

When performing framing joints using special tools - kantovatel, or circuit breakers, which bends the sections of the strips and guide it under the needle. 

 Edging seam with braid (Fig. 6, W) has the same function as the above-described edging seams, but when you run instead of the strips of backing fabric used in lace of a width of 1.1 cm 

 Oblasnoy seam used in the design of the edges of the collar, flanges, valves, pockets and other clothing items. To secure the edges of the part machined obecnym seam finishing and are widely used uspeshnye lines, and in some cases apply treatment to the "pure land". This treatment sides the seam allowance on the left side of the shelves with a width of 0.3 - 0.4, and podborov - 0,6 - 0,7 cm Wide seam allowance close to the seam from the main part and attach the slice to the side strip of the adhesive film or on a special machine CM-2;in some cases, hand-filed slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 - 1.0 see a view of the edge seals oblasnoy seam and protects the edge from deformation in the process of wearing clothes.

To perform oblachnykh stitches used car with a knife (22-C. PMZ), which is constructing the line, at the same time cut the seams. After grinding the seams rautureau, the edge of the spawn with the formation of Kant with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm or frame width of 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 6, h, and I). During subsequent processing the edge (edge, frame) are fixed by stitching or spuskay (manual, glue, machine). 

Obecnie seams can be cut into the frame with casting and edging. 

 Oblasnoy the seam in the rim (Fig. 6, K, l) can be set and nastroni.

In the products of thin light fabrics used obecnie seams with bonding edging, for example, for finishing collars in dresses (see Fig. 6, K). For this purpose a strip of cloth width of 2.5 - 3 cm, folded in half, pritachivajut to one of the parts, then placing the other part, to equalize the slices and grind. Line grinding I do about lines of primaqiune strips of fabric. 

When you run oblachnykh seams with sewn edging and used a special foot and guides, rulers, providing roveto Kant. 

In the manufacture of a departmental clothing made of thick fabrics used easypayday nastroni Kant.

Obecnie seams lapped tongue edging is performed as follows. Collar grind a strip of cloth or edge (see Fig. 6, l) seam width 0.3 - 0.4 cm, then the seam tightly envelop the strip and lay the stitching in the seam grinding, enclosing at the same time under the line of the lower collar. For the best connection details perform a finishing line at a distance of 2.0 - 2.2 cm from a line laid in the seam grinding. The sections of the lower collar trimmed (if fabric is not showered), leaving a seam allowance of 0.2 cm, or sutured to the collar slanted stitches long and 0.4 - 0.5 cm (if the fabric is flaking).

The edge seams are treated in women's clothing obecnie loops of two types: direct and loop with spy-hole for the legs of the buttons. 

 Obecnie loop (Fig. 7, a) is treated with one or two obrazkami. Loop outline on the details of the two longitudinal and two transverse lines defining the length and width of the loop. The length of the loop is determined by the button. To button fastened freely, the loop should be more buttons on 0,2 - 0,5 cm Distance between the longitudinal lines (the width of the loop) is equal to 0,8 - 1,2 cm: it should be equal to twice the width of the two edges. If the loop process on Board products, the distance of the loops from the edges of the Board should be 3/4 the diameter of the buttons.When the raw edge of a Board is add another 0.5 cm for the seam, to button in a locked position didn't cover the edge of a Board and not deviate from it too far (in the latter case, the edge of a Board will thibetica on the front side of the product).

After marking the locations of the loops of piping, folded in half, place the bend on the planned longitudinal lines. Place of primaqiune of obcutek located at a distance of 0.25 - 0.3 cm from the bend of the piping. Lines in the ends of the loop to finish exactly at the level of scheduled cross lines. From the inside fabric is cut between the lines, not reaching the ends of the lines at 0.5 - 0.6 cm, at the ends of the loops are cut in the side lines, reaching them by 0.1, see

When processing loops, one loop facing cut as follows: the ends of the hinge detail is incised without piping, all piping is cut along a straight line in the direction of the cut loop. Piping turn inside out details, straighten seams and clip the ends of the loops on the machine double reverse stitching. Grooves loops smatyvay manual slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 cm Piping loops from the back cut, leaving a seam allowance of 1.5 cm, and slices hand-filed slanted stitches. Loop priorivet from the inside, straightening the edges of the loops. 

 Obecnie loop with spy-hole (Fig. 7, b) treated with the same facing, which is cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. The location of the loop is marked with the inside details. Obtachku primetyvajut face with the main item. Line are on the main details, making the curve (eye) at one end of the loop, the Fabric is cut with scissors between the lines. Live end of the loop the cut end with a triangle and eye are doing some nasechek.

Live end of the loop (without eye) the facing is cut to the end and turn inside out. Edge loop spawn slanting stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm, straightening Kant from piping with a width of 0.25 - 0.3 cm. the Straight end of the loop secured with machine stitching. Sections of piping are cut and hand-filed slanted stitches. Loop priorivet from the front and from the back through Ironing the strip (protogenic) . 

Finishing seams 

Finishing seams (Fig. 8) used for decoration parts (sleeves, back, pockets, etc.). Finishing include nastronie, Princess seams and various folds.

 Nastronie seams described above. 

 Princess seams can be in the form of small folds (tucks) received one or two lines (Fig. 8, a), or vstrechnyi, where the relief of the seam is created by laying of the cord or harness (Fig. 8, b). 

 Vstrechnyi raised seams is reasonable to produce on a needle sewing machines. 

A variation of the Princess seams are wylacznie seams (Fig. 8,, g), which are made in two ways.. 

With the first method run wytycznych seams mark the seam line with chalk from the inside of the part. The part at the bend line marking, folding her face, bottom lay a strip of cloth and zastrugivajut, i.e. perform engine line at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the line of bend of the part. Seam priorivet, straightening the line vetochnogo seam, mark the patterns on the figure finishing line and perform it on the chalk line. This line needs from the inside to grab the strip of cloth, pricechannel the first line. 

In the second method run wytycznych seams the seam line is marked on the front side of the part. Striped fabric features on the chalk line from the inside of the part. The marking machine stitch pritachivajut a strip of cloth to the part. Then detail put face on the line, and pricechannel strip folded in half and bent the other way. Perform line vetochnogo seam, positioning it at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the first. Pricechannel iron strip in the direction of the finishing line. Finishing line performed from the front side the details with the guide bar or by applying chalk lines. 

 Folds made unilateral (Fig. 8, d), counter (Fig. 8, e) and box (Fig. 8, g). According to the method of processing folds are divided at the coupling and finishing. 

 Connecting folds treated with additional strips are cut from the same cloth in the direction of the grain lines. 

In the manufacture of the finishing folds on the details from the inside mark the place of their location the two lines: crest line details and line smachivaniya folds. The process of making folds consists of the following operations: 
smachivanie folds inside out at the chalk lines on the machine single thread chain stitch;
bridging folds; 
the wet-heat treatment of the folds with an iron or press (to resuturing or to press a crease); 
the execution of the decorative stitches on the front side details on chalk lines or using ruler guides; 
securing the ends of the folds hand or machine with clips; 
deleting a running stitch and reinforcement of the folds on the bottom of the product manual stitches; 
the wet-heat treatment of the folds with an iron or press (priotity fold) through protohellenic.

In the manufacture of the coupling unilateral folds (Fig. 8, h) details of the folded face inward and sew along the outer fold lines of the pleats. At the end of the line end across the seam allowance on the fold, and then, without breaking thread, sew the seam under the fold from the transverse lines to the bottom. Iron the crease on the model. For the formation of connective counter folds (Fig. 8,) items folded inside out and sew from the inside on the planned line. Seam rautureau (woolen fabrics) or spread (for cotton fabrics).From the inside under the fold enclose a strip of cloth and pritachivajut it from both sides, equating the slices. Box connecting the folds (Fig. 8, K) are treated the same as a one-sided folds.