PREPARING FOR OBMENKA AND TYPES of LAYOUTS 

 Almalki call one of the processes of cutting production, which consists in positioning a set of templates for one or several articles on fabric and obselete outlines all the details. With the layout of the patterns comply with the specifications set out above and the established norms of fabric consumption for obmenka.

The correctness of the layout patterns and almalki depends on the quality of cut and economical use of fabric. This work is done by skilled workers - almaliki on a special desktop. Along the edges of the table, make markings in meters and centimeters. Obelsik should be provided with the full set of patterns of the product, a sketch or photo of the layout is made in the experimental shop. The workplace of obelsik must be equipped with brackets for storage of patterns, album posters specifications and tolerances of layouts and device for grinding chalk. 

 Almalki also referred to as the upper blade appropriate flooring fabrics on which the patterns of almeley outlines all the details. To prepare almalki given a piece of cloth laid on the table of obelsik expanded (width) tailored laying patterns for the direction of the pile. Mark a square cut line chasovogo the end of the piece of fabric in accordance with a given width obmeleet frame on both sides of the edges and start to layout the patterns. 

 The methods of layout patterns in omelka depending on the location of the front of the fabric in flooring as follows: 1) "face" - with pairs of parts (men's suits, coats); 2) "face down" - when cutting products, where more than a single (unpaired) items (lingerie, dress, etc.). Almalki for decking fabrics "face" is more economical obmalloc for decking face down 0.3 - 0.5% as in the first method you do not need to follow the proper placement of the right and left halves of parts, thereby reducing milesiinae tissue loss.

There is also a combined method in which part of the single parts stand for the limits of the basic frame cut out and face down and paired the main parts cut out "face". For example, many enterprises used the combined method of apportionment patterns on the sports suits for men and suits for boys. From the main frame, where all pairs of items were seized unpaired parts of the yoke and backrest and arranged in a separate frame. These layouts are more economical than the layouts for decks face down.

The number of complete sets of curves in omelka may be different. Almalki produced in 0,5; 1,0; 1,5; 2,0; 2,5; 3,0 and more complete sets of patterns. 

The shortest is obmenka with a half set of patterns of the product when cutting fabric shib "face"; this method causes additional tissue loss in the bend increases milesiinae loss and is used mainly in the Studio of individual tailoring.

In Abimelech with one set of curves or in two half-sets laid out all the details of one razmerita, or the same size, but different Rostov; laid out half of the pair of parts of each size-growth and all unmatched items.

In Abimelech patterns of different sizes are the same or different Rostov lay -half of all the pair of parts of each size-growth and unmatched parts bigger size-growth. 

The most economical fabric consumption for most goods are almalki in two or more sets of patterns and for pants - almalki three or more sets.

Almalki and a half, two and a half, etc., containing a fractional number of sets of patterns used in products with a large number of large and small paired items (pants, suits, coats). 

The rational arrangement of the parts in the layout reduces the loss of tissue, reduced fabric consumption for the product, and hence the cost of products, therefore, the rationality of layout is important in the clothing industry.

Made almalki carefully examine the master or the TCI controller. On items indicate size, length of the product. Each almalki pin passport with indication of the model number, completeness, size, height, length and width almalki. To better preserve chalk lines ready Omelko put in a few kinks (with chalk inside) or rolled on a specially made lightweight wooden lattice width 30 - 40 cm, length 160 cm wide fabrics and 100 cm for narrow fabrics. 

MAKING STENCILS

In the process of mass production almalki on the same products width fabrics are often repeated (school uniform for boys and girls, men pants, linen, uniforms and institutional clothing, etc.). In this regard, for such products, as well as a unified lining and butt clothes instead obmalloc use stencils. 

 The stencil is Omelko made on buckram black color or on special paper, where instead of contour lines trace the curves of the punched hole with a diameter of 1.0 - 1.5 mm at a distance of 5 mm from one another (2 - 3 holes of 1 cm).

To the production of stencils in the experimental shop doing experimental layouts and choose the most rational combination of size and height with a smaller percentage magically attacks. Patterns are laid out in accordance with specifications on abelko. Holes along the contour lines carve on a special fixture or perforating machine. Stencil produce long frame of 15 - 20 cm To one end of the stencil attach the bar, which protrude beyond the edge of the stencil 15 - 17 cm each side, to another attaching the braid or edge for tying it.

At the end of the stencil, start with plank (from the inside), stamped the passports of the stencil. The stamp is placed so that sikatana the stencil you can see all your passport details, ie number stencil and models, completeness, size, and length, length and width of the frame layout, the nature of the surface of the fabric, date, personnel number, manufacturer, stamp OTK.

Stencils keep the coils in special boxes located under the surface of the deck panel tables or on shelves, and the passport stamp stencil feature with the mechanical side of the roll. The table of consumption norms of fabric used for the calculation of pieces, specify which combinations of sizes and widths of fabrics are available stencils. In the cutting chart indicate the rate of flow of the fabric, applying the stencils and put the legend for kastelic.

In the cutting shop on the wrong side of the upper cloth flooring applied to the stencil and along the contour lines, it is carried out using a special device, inside which are covered with chalk. Passing through the holes of the stencil, chalk leaves a mark contour lines on the fabric. In case you want to produce podelko patterns. 

In the industry are also used stencils made from paper that is propagated to the desired quantity by the method of blueprint. The paper stencil is applied to the upper blade platform and along the contour lines cut together with fabric.

Heliographic method of making paper stencils is as follows: first perform the layout on tracing paper. The contours of the patterns they outline in pencil and ink. Made on tracing paper to produce a reproduction on a blueprint machine type SKA. On heliographic paper impose a tracing-paper drawing up and passing them to the bunker blueprint machine. When passing through the lighting and pravitelya camera on photosensitive paper imprinted with the shape of the line layout.Such a method of manufacturing stencils are economical and applicable for all kinds of clothes, underwear and hats.

The use of stencils compared to almalki has several advantages: 

less time on Omelko flooring in 8 - 10 times; 

increases the turnover of spreading tables; 

reduced number of work patterns; 

decreasing the cost of manufacturing almalki as copying the stencil is done by workers of lower skills; 

perhaps the use of more advanced standards of layout patterns and reduction of consumption of cloth at 0.5 - 1.0%.

For comparative characteristics of the efficiency of the use of stencils is the rate of return that reflects the ratio of the value of the stencil to the cost almalki. The rate of return indicates how many times needs to be used a stencil to recoup the cost of its manufacture. As practice shows, the cost of stencils, made of special paper, pay off after you apply them in production 2 - 3 times.

The disadvantages of stencil - possibility of shrinkage and distortions. Stencils check at least 1 - 2 times a month in order to avoid their shrinkage in width and length and distortion of parts during operation. 

Templates LAYOUTS 

IN the apparel industry frequently used templates layouts patterns developed TSNIISHP, men's and women's coats and suits, coats, trousers, shirts etc. Model scheme is developed by applying them to products of different models and provide a certain relative position of the patterns of the major parts to the respective widths of the fabrics, size and height.

Principles of location patterns in the layout are as follows. Large patterns are laid straight (or close to them) slices to the edge of the frame layout and curved sections in the middle part of the area fabric. Smaller patterns are placed between large, combining the side sections of adjacent patterns (Fig. 147).

Large and medium-sized patterns combine so that the cut-outs they have formed large areas in the layout used for laying small parts. 

Most of the recommended types of schemes built on the principle symmetric, i.e. almost the same location patterns in both parts of the layout (if it be divided into two parts diagonally).

Templates layout templates can be used for layouts identical and adjacent size-Rostov at the same percentage magically attacks In this case, each combination of size corresponds to a certain width. For the selected combination of size-growth products, the same layout can be used on multiple adjacent widths of fabric.

In the tissues of smooth and striped large-and medium-sized patterns in the layout are placed symmetrically relative to the point of intersection of the diagonals of the layout. If the patterns are intended for products of the same kind, but different styles, are very similar in configuration, they can be stacked on the same schemes location of major patterns in the layout. 

The change in the layout of the location of small and medium-sized parts can allow you to create a new layout option products. 

PACKAGING

The appearance of the garments, as we know, depends largely on the model created by the artist-designer, the choice of the color and pattern of fabric. 

The correct use of tissue models in mass production at the enterprises of the following artists confectionery. They participate in the selection of models, advise procurement Department of the enterprise in the preparation of the order on all types of fabrics at the top, butt, lining, fur accessories and devices. 

The packaging is called a selection of fabrics uppers, linings, finishes, fittings and fur devices for the respective models of the product.

For all required to run the model are produts of a map on the basis of the recommendations set out in the technical descriptions, samples and models, approved by the artistic Council. It should be guided by the order of trading organizations, which identified specific materials from the items and colours on each model.

Confection-map is an artist-confectioner for each model in the following approximate scheme: a) sketch of the model; b) the fabric samples top of their article and color; C) samples of the lining of the butt and finish (of each tissue sample top); g) colour and number of threads; d) samples of buttons; e) the name and the color of the fur of the device; g) apply the completeness, size, and growth.

Produts card says chief engineer of the factory. The map is recommended to pin samples of top fabric, lining and thread. Produts cards up in three copies: for the preparing, cutting and sewing shops. The tasks of the artist confectioner includes continuous monitoring in production to ensure that the approved confection cards.