MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATIONS, PATTERNS 

In the experimental shop of the patterns manufactured in the factory prescribed number of copies of razmilovic, inspectors cut and to control utility works in tailoring, by the original fashion house or designer of the factory (if the model was developed by factory). Changes in the patterns made only with the consent of the author, model and designer.

In the garment industry, use the following patterns: basic (work and control) and support. They are made of cardboard press span, bobbin case or cardboard with a thickness of 0,87 - of 1.62 mm. Patterns, which are used for band knife machine, edging for strength to contour metal tape or made of metal plates (if the patterns are used for a long time). Patterns of various structures around the metallic ribbon on an improved sanding machine.

Pattern cardboard cut on a special machine (elektrovibromashina) or manually with scissors along the contour lines drawn in pencil. The machine makes 600 rpm, it is compact and provides a good cut quality and high productivity.

On every detail of the main and auxiliary patterns indicate the name and number of models, completeness, size, height or length of the product. One of the major pieces glued sketch of product appearance and make an inventory of all parts included in this set of patterns. On all sections of the patterns put the stigma of a special device.

On the main patterns of thin lines cause the direction of the warp threads of the fabric and the line (dotted line) permissible deviations in the manufacture of obmalloc, lines of minimum and maximum values of the supers, their location (in accordance with MRTU) and the location of the hinges (on the fly, podborta, etc.). On the patterns for the control of cut is additionally applied to the line of permissible deviations for the cut parts and slots in site Supervisory (installation) nasechek.

The auxiliary patterns are made slots of the locations of pockets, loops, buttons, recesses, reliefs, etc. ozdorovchi voltage variations and tolerances, a number of extensions and their location provided by the technical conditions (MRTU) or technical description on the model.

The size of permissible deviations. from impinging on the patterns of nominal lines indicate the percentage of the length of the part and determine in the following way. The length of a line drawn the base fabric for entire part taking 100%. Based on the percentage of acceptable deviation is determined by the absolute value in millimeters or inches; then on the bottom part of the left and right of the nominal line at a right angle to hold the line where lay the value of tolerances, the same on both sides; found points connect with the top point of the nominal line, forming an isosceles triangle.

 For example in the shelf jacket (without fabric strips), the length of which is 80 cm, the tolerance of deviations from the warp threads provides +-1 %, or 0,8 cm Therefore, deviations from the warp threads left and right at the bottom of the product will amount to 8 mm.

On the contour lines in the curves indicate marks for the correct connection of the sections during the manufacture of the product. The connection of cut parts can be smooth without stretching or landing one of the parts or with a uniform planting of one of slices between nasecki. The patterns on sections of items which make the cut in triangles with a depth of 0,5 - 0,8 cm so that one cut of the notch is perpendicular to the line edges of the part. When cutting parts according to the planned lines of radseck performs cuts perpendicular to the contour of the cut parts with a depth of 0.5 cm machine or special fixture.Made patterns check employees of Department of technical control and put the appropriate stamp.

In cutting and sewing workshops of the major and minor patterns are sent along with an accompanying passport, which specifies the list and the number of parts of top, lining, butt and a brief description of the model.

Basic test patterns for measurement standards and report card measures, at least, one or two times a month. In the finished patterns can be deviations from patterns-standards: not more than +-0,9 mm for each slice. At least once per quarter test patterns-standards for technical measurements to eliminate possible inaccuracies of the dimensions of the patterns due to shrinkage of the cardboard.

In terms of mass production of storage patterns mechanize. To do this, use a bunk silos with automatic call is needed to set work patterns. The sets of curves are hung on metal hooks to the frame of the Elevator.

SPECIFICATIONS PICKUP PATTERNS 

The quality of the clothes depends largely on compliance with technical requirements in the layout of patterns on fabric or stencil.

For layout patterns on the fabrics used made in the laboratory basic patterns approved OTC; take into account the direction of the pile, the fleece, the fabric, the direction of the warp threads or the weft permitted extensions and deviations from patterns on the edges.

For pile fabrics, and fabrics with different shades of all patterns of parts of the main fabric (with the exception of obrazek and bottom collars) are arranged in one direction. On pile fabrics such as plush, velvet, polomarket corduroy, corduroy and corduroy-ribbed, the pile needs to be directed upwards products to ensure that the fabric had a matte finish. Pile textured plush, which has no specific direction may be directed from below upwards and from above downwards.On pile fabrics like a joke, the Drapes and the cloth clearly marked with fleece, these cotton fabrics like melange, begonia, suede, velveton, pile direction should be from top down products, to better lay during wear of the product.

On fabrics with a slight NAP details of one product are laid in one direction; while simultaneously the layout of the two products of these fabrics are parts of the same product can be positioned in one direction and the other part to the opposite direction.

On plain, striped and plaid fabrics (without NAP and tint) with the symmetric arrangement pattern patterns details of each product is allowed to expand in opposite directions, and fabrics with patterns that are not symmetrical (in one direction), and fabrics with directional weaving pattern, pile, NAP all pieces of each product are laid out in the same direction.

On the fabric in stripes or checkered patterns are laid out subject to the subsequent adjustment of the strips or cells in sections of separate parts: on the shelves - on the edge of the boards; on podborta - on the outer edges of the lapels, and the back - average of sections; valves, patch pockets, slips overhead and Welt pockets, the collar, pull tab at back - top and bottom sections; on the yoke and backs of shelves and folds or tucks the back.

To fit the pattern of the fabric when cutting out these details in the layouts provide for allowances in the amount of 1/2, 3/4 or full repeat pattern. Split back and podborta cut out without seam allowance, placing them near the call edge of the deck.

All the parts cut out with the minimum deviations from the patterns in the slices. Thus, these deviations should not exceed (in cm):

+-0,10 ... +-0,15 in the cut parts, cut from main fabric (shoulder, arm openings, sleeveless okatov, etc.);

+ ... -0,15 +-0,20 in the cut parts, cut from the main and lining fabrics (side and lateral sections through the ulnar and anterior sections of the sleeves, the sections of the collars, patch pockets, etc.);

+-0,25 ... +-0,30 in other slices (slices of various gaskets, bottom shelves and backs of the main and lining fabrics, etc.);

+-0,20 in the size and location of one relative to the other nasechek.

Stroke patterns (while making the pickup and podbelka details on the flooring) is performed finely .sharpened chalk or pencil with the following conditions:

line thickness of the stroke should be no more than 0.1 cm;

the inner side lines of the stroke should match the contour patterns;

between the cut parts, which in the shearing tolerance of the slices is not more than 0.2 cm, in the layout patterns should be a distance between patterns is not less than 0,1 - 0,15 cm