MILESIINAE TISSUE LOSS. DESIGN the rate of FLOW of the FABRIC ON the LAYOUT of
Rational methods of layout patterns are reduced mainly to a reduction in the percentage magically losses (attacks), which is calculated by the formula A = (I - I)100/I, where - magicalia losses (to the nearest 0.1%), %; I - area of the layout (to the nearest 0.001 m2), m2; I - the useful area of the pattern m2.
Value magically loss characterizes the efficiency of the layout and use of square fabric. The useful area is considered to be the size patterns of all parts excluding the area of the seams of the wedges and consoles to bridging details, as well as allowances for fit patterned fabrics.
TSNIISHP developed exemplary standards magically losses when cutting fabric in the mass production of garments as a percentage of the square layout. Ratios are given separately for the tissues of the top, lining, butt on all garments based on the type of surface, number of sets of patterns in the layout method of laying out the fabric and silhouette of the model.
The main factors influencing the change in the value magically loss of tissue are: a) the number of sets of patterns in the layout; b) the principle of combining products in one layout; C) the rationality of the width of the fabric; g) method of laying out the fabrics in the flooring;. d) view of the surface of the fabric; e) the ratio between the small and large details in the set of patterns; g) the configuration details of the patterns.
The fabric consumption with mass production set for each model on the basis of the usable area curves, magically attacks, loss of fabric length when nastilanie (on the slack of the webs, the joints, at the ends of flooring and random flap).
First, establish the norm in omelka (on the frame) flooring for each combination of size and height. On the basis of combinations of size and height (table. 29) be the job the quantity surveyor of the fabric consumption for design standards on almalki. The assignment should reflect the content obmalloc (size and growth, included in Omelko, the proportion of almalki in the party), set the standard magically attacks (not higher than achieved on this product for a similar model), the preliminary estimated rate for Omelko (for each frame) in m2, the range of widths, fabric (Varsova, stripe, etc.), method of laying out.
It is recommended for each model to do 5 - 6 experimental layout for 2 - 3 width of fabric (smooth, versova, print). The rate of flow of the fabric on Omelko or the area of the pickup patterns 5 are established according to the formula I = I x 100/(100 - VN) (m2), where HV - standard magically attacks, %.
The length of the pickup But is determined by dividing area of the layout on the width of the fabric b: Ho = So/b.
First, establish control standards for almalki for medium size to smaller and larger width fabrics. For each experimental layout patterns distinguish the actual percentage magically attacks (VF), which is calculated by the formula VF = (I - I) x 100/So (%).
Knowing the actual percentage magically attacks obtained from the experimental layout, determine the weighted average percentage of attacks for the product. To do this, create a table (table. 30), which indicate the percentage magically attacks for each layout on two or three widths, and average percentage.
The average interest rate (HRV.TOD) is determined by summing the products of each value of the average percent magically attacks at the appropriate specific weight; the total amount divided by the percent of the specific weight on the scale-length.
In our example, the HRV.RDT = ((8.4 x 24) + (8.2 x 12) + (8.0 x 12))/48 = 8.2 per cent.
A set percentage magically attacks for some widths and sizes spread to other combinations of size-height and widths.
The experimental layout is performed on a special table. On the lid along the table are color-coded with lines for various widths of fabrics. In length of table with two sides reinforced metal tape measure with tick marks. This frees the specialist from performing additional work: measurement variance components from the warp when laying patterns, measuring length and width of the frame.
Consumption rates fabrics set with accuracy to 1 cm To reduce losses along the length of the pickup in some of the factories set the standards with accuracy to 0.5 cm.
Experimental layout for fabrics outerwear tend to carry on all combinations of size and height in 3 of the fourth width (e.g., widths 134, 138, 142 cm, etc.). On the other width fabrics the norm determined by calculation, i.e. the norm of the fabric in square meters divide by the width and set the frame length.
The existence of different widths lining fabric significantly influences the percentage magically attacks in the layout patterns, so you need to Shirin lining tissues of each group (58 - 63, 67 - 71, 83 - 86, 90 - 96 cm) run 2 - 3 experimental layout; for other fabric widths standards specify the calculation, spreading them revealed the percentage of magically losses. Such recalculation of the norms based on the area of the layout should be applied, starting with the larger widths are smaller in the group of widths in order not to reduce standards to the layout.
The consumption rate of the tissue is recommended to note the most economical layout symbol to best use them in the calculation of the decks.
The experimental layouts make sketches in two instances using patterns, reduced in 10 times. On the sketch indicate the contents of the layout and all of its technical indicators. Instead of sketches it is possible to apply a better method, the photo layout templates on the install, etc.
All the experimental layout of the installation as rules check, subject to technical conditions.
Established and approved by the chief engineer of the factory standards layouts are entered in the selection map. At the top of the card indicate the model number, the number of the price list of the finished product, the name of the fabric, method of laying out, etc. In the card write down a list of combinations of sizes, shapes, and Rostov each frame for which a set rate, the weight of each frame, and the rate in running meter for all widths of fabrics provided when cutting the model.
In the preparation of costing of products, tekhpromfinplan, as well as in establishing the application norms of fabric consumption per unit of product standards in the TDG. m translate the rules in m2, or specify a rule based on conditional width (for woolen fabrics 133 cm, cotton and silk - 100 cm) or the list of fabric widths (projected or actual).
Example. To determine the rate of m2 if the consumption rate of the wool fabric equal to 2.64 Pogue. m and sticker fabric width of 1.42 m of 2.64 x 1.42 = 3,75 m2.
To determine the rate of tissue at the conventional width frame length multiplied by the width of the list and divide by the conditional width. In our example 264 x 142 : 133 = 2,818 m.
The fabric of each article on the basis of group classifications assigned group number, which is set from calculating prices when the conditional width of the fabric. The group number of the fabric is determined by recalculation of the retail price of the fabric at the width specified in the price list, the price at the conventional width. The list width to take wool fabric without edges (width edges for narrow fabrics up to 70 cm - 2 cm, for fabrics of a width exceeding 70 cm - 3 cm). The retail price is divided into the width specified in the price list and multiply it by the notional width.
Example. 1 m wool blend fabric is worth 18 rubles 30 kopecks., the width of the list price of 142 cm, width of edge 3 cm to Determine the value of the tissue at the conventional width. 1830 x 133 : 139 = 17 rubles 51 kopecks
According to the cost of fabric determine its group (according to the menu).
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