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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Nastilanie fabrics

Top fabric lay mainly in the expanded view of the "face" or "face down". Nastilanie shib fabrics during bulk cutting is not recommended in order to avoid increasing losses of fabric on milesiinae attacks on fold of fabric; additionally, due to the narrow width of the fabric, some large items may not be justified. In addition, when nastilanie tissue shib impossible or inefficient to use a number of devices and machines.

The length of the flooring depends on the norms of fabric consumption per unit of product, the number of sets of patterns in the layout and adopted a method for the efficient cutting. However, it should be borne in mind that long runs (more than 8 - 9 m), especially of wool, complicates the process of laying out and degrade the quality of the decks (possible stretching and skewing of the paintings).

The height of the flooring (the number of blades in the floor), we recommend the following:

 Fabric  The height of the flooring in the paintings
Fine  26 - 28
Worsted  34 - 36
The Drapes  14 - 18
Grybauskiene  18 - 20
Clothing staple, silk, lining  50 - 60
Cotton lining, linen, shirting  100 - 120
Silk dress  35 - 50
Side gasket, rubberized  40 - 50


For nastelit the main document in nastilanie fabrics are design map (design of deck). 

Fabric lay in two ways: sequential and simultaneous.

The sequential method involves nastilanie pieces of fabric in accordance with the calculation: first, at the first section or the first table completely and then in subsequent sections or tables regardless of what pieces of cloth to the end of laying out have to defer to other tables or sections. After that consistently lay the pieces on the other sections. The advantage of this method lies in the efficient use of machine tables, as you can start cutting fabrics for the first table, without waiting for the flooring of the entire party pieces.

Parallel method of laying out is that each piece is fully spread on all partitions (frame) flooring or on a few tables in accordance with the calculation and to cutting start only after laying out all the pieces. 

In the process of laying out the fabrics comply with the following procedures and basic technical requirements: 

Omelko or stencil laid out on the table and mark with chalk the length of the deck and each section, then check with two sides, whether these marks the length of the flooring and partitions;

the design map are for the calculations of the length and width of the sections (frames) of the actual abelcam; 

on the markup set restrictive line on the second end of the deck; 

when nastilanie comply with direction of pile and pattern; 

fabric flooring is laid in each section (frame) in accordance with the method of laying out - the "face" or "face" down; 

combined with one side of the edges of all the canvases and make sure to avoid the other side of the flooring deviations in the width of the different paintings above the tolerance established for the enterprise;

the cloth is laid and leveled without tension; 

the fabric width at the ends and the joints cut perpendicular to the length of the frame;

ensure that found in tissue defects caught between the parts or in non-critical parts; if necessary, the cloth is removed for individual cutting (with nastilanie "face" removed two cloth); 

fabric with a pattern (stripes, cells) lay with the calculation of combining image width (striped fabric) or length and width (of fabrics);

fabrics of different colors or articles are placed in the deck in the order of priority prescribed by the planning map, but to finish nastilanie the same colour fabric or article, and then to lay a fabric of a different color article; 

to adhere strictly to the calculations of laying out the fabric for each piece is provided with a payment card.

When nastilanie fabrics outerwear at the same time there are two workers. Before you start nastilanie, they become familiar with the card, all scheduled pieces of fabric to square footage. After laying the table, they set a restrictive line on the second end of the deck. A piece of fabric (on the order of calculation) is put on the fixture, which raises the piece above the table. When manually nastilanie, taking the ends of the fabric from both sides, workers are carrying her over the table along the length of the frame faceup to identify the marked fabric defects.Finally cloth fabrics is placed on a fixed frame in the method of laying out ("face" or "face down"). The ends of the fabric clamped rulers. Canvas and align and combine the leveled side of the edge. The canvas is cut exactly on the "plane" or end the line. Narrow fabric nastily one worker.

At the end of laying out Omelko laid on top as the first canvas, carefully inspect the entire deck, according to his calculations at the design map and technical specifications. In case you want to produce podelko details on the patterns. If instead almalki apply the stencil, it is placed on the upper blade platform and pripudrivayut shapes of the parts of the patterns. After removing the stencil unclear lines podmechayut on the patterns and check the quality of the flooring. It is advisable to perform a single employee - the supervisor in the cutting room. The paper stencil fasten to the flooring.

The quality control of the finished flooring should check out: 

rovnou the laying of cloths across the leveled edge of the deck; 

roveto paintings at the end of the deck; 

the coincidence of pattern in the paintings, covered with "face"; 

a proper selection of the fabric width. 

Before you begin to reveal flooring, every detail from the inside top of the canvas indicate the model number, size, height, order number and number of packs (branding) stamps or paper labels, which are sewn or bonded to the parts of the product. Also used easily washable paint or chalk.

One of the final operations on preparation of the flooring to reveal is the consumption of cloth on a flooring or a few floorings of one calculation; accounting is a record-Keeper or tenant of the decks. His duties are: 

to check the total number of blades in the soft tissue of each article, the actual length of the deck and its sections, content compliance almalki data card cutting, counting the number and total length of residue on the article;

to determine and compare the estimated and actual expenditure tissue; to establish a design flow of fabric the length almalki with account taken for the factory standards for tissue loss when nastilanie (on the slack of the fabric, at the ends, the joints, the remains of up to 15 cm) multiplied by the number of paintings in flooring; actual consumption of fabric on the floor is defined as the difference between the amount of fabric that was issued for the deck, and the amount of tissue in the remains after the deck; cutting of fabric with overspending allowed only with the permission of the chief engineer of the factory;

record in the cutting chart the results of the use of fabric: the height of the deck, the number of joints and ends of the deck, data on the number of products; 

to prescribe the route lists (primary accounting document, controlling the passage of goods in production from cut to finished product), for packs up to 10 units, where products are assigned sequence numbers; routing number.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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