Crucial to increase in output, expansion of assortment and improvement of quality of clothing is the use of progressive forms of organization of labor and production, advanced equipment and technology.
In the garment industry used the most perfect method of the mass production line. The essence of mass production is the manufacture of one product group of performers, consistently and rhythmically performing different operations of the same process.
Threads garment production are divided into pipelined, non-conveyor, aggregate-group flow and small series.
Pipeline flows are characterized by the fact that the product during processing are moved from one working place to another by mechanical conveyors from the regulated rhythm, a beat.
Non-conveyor and aggregate-group flows differ from the conveyor to the fact that the products in process move from one work site to another manually or mechanically on a free rhythm.
In the streams of small series of products are transferred by mechanical conveyors.
Process streams can be of different capacities (output of products per shift) and of different types. Power flows in the industry are divided into three groups: low, medium and high power.
Flows of low power are characterized by a large time quantum of the thread. In this case, poor use of special machines, fixtures and press, violated rules of recruitment operations, the jobs of too many transactions, thus reducing productivity.
Flows of average power to provide higher productivity, best use of special machines, new technology, small tools, and synchronization of organizational operations at the time.
The classification process streams of low and medium power (according TSNIISHP) are given in table. 16.
Table 16 Classification of flows of low and medium power
The product |
The number of workers in the flow |
low power, less |
average power, from - to |
Coat outwear woolen |
70 |
70 - 140 |
Pants wool |
35 |
35 - 80 |
Men's shirts |
25 |
25 - 60 |
Womens dresses wool and silk |
30 |
30 - 75 |
Flows of large capacity the most suitable for the introduction of modern forms of organization of mass production, full use of special machines, new technologies using machines for the forming and Assembly of parts and components, means of mechanization and rational use of working time. To the flow of high power should also include end-to-end flows (mill-stream), which are organized according to the following scheme: warehousing, preparatory-cutting production, procurement of parts, product installation, finishing and packaging.
TSNIISHP recommends the following optimal power flows for the main types of garments (table. 17).
Table 17 Optimal power flow for the main types of garments
The product |
Power flow units |
The number of workers in the flow |
Coat men's jacket |
340 |
112 |
Women's coat jacket |
340 |
108 |
Coat mens winter |
320 |
127 |
Coat women's winter |
320 |
120 |
Blazer wool mens |
320 |
100 |
Trousers woolen |
690 |
71 |
Dress women's wool |
410 |
73 |
Women's silk blouse |
430 |
37 |
Shirt men's cotton |
1140 |
55 |
Specialized streams of high power costs on control; in such flows, as a rule, higher quality products, due to the specialization of workers, reducing the diversity of operations performed by each worker. The big advantage of threads is large and the average power is the ability to use mechanical conveyors, while in streams of low power units are used with manual transmission products.
The threads can be fixed and removable.
The removable threads working each shift at the end of the day removed them received the items of work and put in storage. The processing of these products, they continue the next day.
In the non-removable threads working each shift continue to work on unfinished products working the previous shift.
Removable flow compared to fixed have the following essential disadvantages:
increases the WIP and cycle time by approximately two times;
lost working time on cleaning and disassembly of products;
worsen the appearance and sanitary condition of the plant,
violated the requirements of fire safety;
the quality of products, if taken products are stored in racks, etc.
thus, it is recommended for mass production of non-removable threads. The use of removable threads is permissible only if it is impossible by any other means to expand the range posively products, as well as in other individual cases, but only with proper storage of semi-finished products.
Depending on the number of styles or types of products simultaneously produced in the process flows, they are divided into the following types:
odnofaznye, highly specialized flows that produce the product of the same kind or style;
mnogobashenniye flows in which simultaneously produced products of the same species, but different styles;
sectional odnofaznye or mnogobashenniye flows, which can simultaneously be manufactured up to 10 models and more;
sectional mnogobashenniye flows in which simultaneously manufactured articles of different types: coats autumn and winter, costumes for adults and children, etc.;
streams small series (PMS) with the simultaneous production of multiple models.
The most progressive form of organization of mass garment production is a sectional mnogofazny the thread in which the process is divided into separate processing stages: harvesting, assembling, finishing.
Mnogobashenniye flows used in the manufacture of all types of products, and are more complex in comparison with odnotonnymi in relation to development work of the operations and to ensure continuous smooth work flow.
If changing the models or types of products is made not more often than every 3 to 4 months. to apply odnofaznye flows. Odnofaznye flows of the average power used for the manufacture of departmental uniforms, lingerie, workwear.
Sectional mnogobashenniye flows of the average power used for the manufacture of women's coats, suits and for the simultaneous production of male and female costumes, and the same flows, but the large capacity for the manufacture of all types of clothing, mens underwear, when building processes for certain types of products (the process of making women's coats, men's coats, men's and women's costumes, men's top shirts).
For products (e.g., women's easy dress), requiring a greater variety and frequent change of models, it is recommended to use flows of small series (PMS) and aggregate-group flow.
Every garment factory has approved production job: production program, graph making models and the projected time for processing products. On the basis of this job counting process streams of manufacture of the product.
Models should be chosen according to the principle of making one thread patterns the same constructive basis, characterized by a form-fitting sleeves: set-in, Raglan, cap, combined, with a low armhole.
Methods of processing of the goods chosen based on the study of features of their design the technical descriptions and samples of the models taking into account the recommendations of CNIISHP and MRTU. When selecting processing methods consider mainly parts and components (sides, collar, sleeves, methods of connecting the product hoses, gaskets, linings, etc.) that can be processed in various ways. Some parts and components can be processed, as is known, machine and manual methods. Manual methods of processing are allowed in the absence of the factory relevant special machines.
When designing new plants should be introduced into the streams of new equipment to achieve the maximum flow mechanization: machines, special machines, press machines.
During the reconstruction and restructuring of existing flows required in the selection of treatment methods to take into account the equipment that was used in the flow to restructuring, and to introduce additional new equipment to replace outdated, inefficient machines.
Processing methods must also be chosen based on the properties of the materials from which are manufactured the products (density, content of chemical fiber, thickness, tensile, shrinkage, color fastness, etc.). On the basis of these properties establishes the processing modes (the temperature of the heaters, the degree of hydration, frequency of lines, etc.).
Processing methods should be tested in the experimental shop of the factory and to provide high quality clothing and lingerie at the lowest possible labor costs, taking into account best practices of enterprises. Based on the selected methods of processing products represent the technological sequence.
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