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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Pocketing

Straight Welt pockets 

handle direct Welt pockets detail dresses in many respects similar to the machining of pockets in articles of outerwear (see section two), however, there are some differences.

Straight Welt pocket dresses in Kant and the frame is treated with a facing and sacking (in two parts), cut from the cloth of her dress. Obtachku and burlap bend in the joint direction inside-out inside, iron and pritachivajut on the planned lines to edging the edge was turned to the line of the cut of the pocket (Fig. 100). The lines come from bend piping and burlap at different distances depending on the design of the edge of the pocket:

for the machining of pockets in Kant obtachku and burlap pritachivajut at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the intended line, the distance between the lines should equal the width of two edges, i.e. 0,8 - 1,0 cm; 

when machining pockets in the frame and the facing burlap pritachivajut at a distance of 0.5 - 0.6 cm from the intended line, the distance between lines is 1.0 - 1.2 cm

Pocket cut. Obtachku and turn the burlap inside out dresses, the edge of the pocket correct. Another part of the burlap pritachivajut to the upper facing. The grub pocket smatyvay. Burlap sew a seam with a width of 1.25 cm, at the same time reinforcing the ends of pocket two back lines. Slices of obrazek and burlap overcast on a special machine. Pocket priorivet (Fig. 101). 

Pockets with curved openings 

Such pockets treated with two obrazkami, cut to shape of the cut of the pocket, and sacking (in two parts).

Pocket outline one longitudinal and two transverse lines. One part of the burlap primetyvajut from the inside of the part, having internal cut burlap 2.5 - 3.0 cm above the intended line of the pocket. After primaqiune of obcutek pocket is cut together with burlap. The top and bottom edges of the pocket spawn edge with a width of 0.25 - 0.3 cm Lower edge of the pocket reinforce stitching styles. Cut the bottom of the piping bends 0.7 - 1.0 cm and scribbled on the burlap. When you pin the top edge of the pocket under the stitching enclose the second part of the burlap.The edge of the pocket smatyvay oblique or crosswise stitch length of 0.7 - 1.0 cm. Burlap grind off the pocket, securing the ends of obcutek two machine stitches, then overcast (Fig. 102). Pockets priorivet.


Pockets door 

Pockets with leaves (slats) can be nastronie and vtachnymi ends of the leaf. 

 Pockets nastronie ends of the leaf. The processing of these pockets leaves grind with two or three sides by a seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, then turn on the front side, straightening the corners and seams. For products made of woolen or silk fabrics, the edges of the leaf spawn and priorivet.

If required, trim the leaves by stitching. Pockets outline the patterns on the front side part of one longitudinal and two transverse lines. The leaf is placed on the markup obraznymi edges to the line of the cut of the pockets face inward. The leaf is applied one portion of the burlap backing up and pritachivajut both the burlap and the leaf seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see

Place finish at the level of the ends of the leaves. The second part of the burlap place above seam primaqiune leaves pritachivajut wrong side up and parallel to the first line; distance between lines of 0.8 - 1.0 see the Pocket cut (with the corners at the ends), and the burlap inside out and straighten.

In dresses of silk and wool fabric leaves primetyvajut to detail straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm, positioning the stitching in the seam of primaqiune leaf. Burlap sew a seam with a width of 1.25 cm, at the same time securing the ends of the pockets with double stitching. Sections of the burlap and the seams of her primaqiune to detail overcast on a special machine. The ends of the piece of paper scribbled by one or more lines depending on the style (Fig. 103, a). Pockets priorivet. 

 Pockets vtachnymi ends of the leaf. Leaves pritachivajut to the burlap seam width of 1.2 - 2.0 cm, depending on the style. The seam tightly round leaflets and iron. The leaves with the burlap and the second part of the burlap pritachivajut on the markup of the pocket so that the distance between the lines corresponds to the width of the leaves in finished form. Pockets cut (with the corners at the ends). Burlap turned inside out, pockets spread. Burlap sew a seam with a width of 1.25 cm, at the same time reinforce the ends of the leaves are double stitching (Fig. 103, b). Burlap overcast. Pockets priorivet. 

Patch pockets

By design, the shape and size of pockets are very diverse. In making the dresses are widely used patch pockets with top entry. 

The upper edge of patch pockets at the bend the planned lines and zastrugivajut seam itagiba with closed slices or grind a strip of cloth (the facing). In the latter case, the facing applied to the front side of the pocket pritachivajut and seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, then folded inside out pockets. The edge of the pocket zametyvayut and priorivet. Obtachku scribbled or attached to the pocket in two places 5 - 6 hidden stitches in each setting.

Dresses of wool, silk and cotton fabrics legkopolirujushchiesja side and lower pocket edges overcast, and then iron the pattern on special presses.

The location of the pockets of the outline mold. Dresses of wool and silk fabrics pockets impose on the planned lines and namachivajut, and then scribbled with legs with wire, dresses of cotton fabrics pockets scribbled without namachivanija. To fasten the upper corners of the pockets on wool and silk fabrics the ends of the branches from the felling of the pockets pulled inside out and secured 5 - 6 hand stitches on cotton fabrics - reverse machine stitching. 

The width of the felling of the pockets set on the model.

When the width of the felling of the pockets is greater than 0.5 cm in the direct pockets handle top and bottom corners. In this case, each pocket obmeleet ne the patterns and put the notch for grinding angles (Fig. 104). Pocket bend on the front side of ndsatcom the width of the bend and grind off the corners of the seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm. the Corners turn out, edged pocket edges overcast on a special machine, after which the edges zametyvayut and priorivet.

When the width of the felling of the pockets is less than 0.5 cm lower corners nakladyvat folds so that the trimming region is not out on the front side. Shirttail hem patch pockets grind pokrainini with strips of fabric. The inner sections of the strips overcast on a special machine. After grinding the edge of the pockets spawn and priorivet from the inside. Pockets applied according to the planned lines, primetyvajut, and then scribbled. In cotton dresses allowed the edge of the pockets to tuck and Topstitch on the main parts without primitivne.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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