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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Preparation for the fitting, holding the fitting articles in the individual production

In the individual manufacture of clothes are made with one or two fittings (depending on the complexity of the style and requirements) under which specified the design of the parts, the position of the product on the figure, and addresses the issues related to the customer's requirements.

In the preparation of the product to the first fitting, the cutter produces cutting fabric tailored style selected by the client and measurements taken from the figure. The details of the cut pave copying stitches (snare) and cut out the jointing parts: in the bottom of the sleeves, lower the collar, a loop, parts of the side strip. The clothing items the snare note: allowances of seams, wide hems, line polutanata and control points, which connect parts of the garment. 

After laying snares in the men's clothing is treated with tuck: metiaut, grind and rautureau.

In the women's clothing top Darts, Princess seams, folds not grind off, but only metiaut, then zametyvayut and iron. 

Storevault the edges of the shelves for receiving the convexity of the chest, handle side gasket and namachivajut shelves on the side strip. 

Process the back. Smatyvay the side sections at the control points, aligning the snare. 

Smatyvay shoulder seams, Posiva back in the middle part of the seam. In the menswear sour cream shoulder and side seams are folded to one side and zametyvayut straight stitches with a length of 1 cm.

Women's clothes shoulder and side seams smatyvay on the front side, they are not zametyvayut and not iron.

Hem bends on the planned line and zametyvayut. 

Grind and rautureau front seams of sleeves, smatyvay elbow seam of one sleeve (in men's clothes left, women - right), the suture is folded towards the upper half and zametyvayut. The bottom of the sleeve bends along the snare and zametyvayut. 

Umatyvaet the sleeve in the armhole of the product and check its position relative to the lines of the pocket or polutanata. 

In the neck umatyvaet gasket lower collar.

The product is prepared for fitting, it is recommended to slightly priotity middle and the side seams of the back. 

In winter clothes during the preparation of the product to the first fitting parts are made of an insulation strip and smatyvay them on the shoulder and side sections. 

The product is prepared for fitting, store suspended on the brackets in a special room.

When the first fitting, the tailor puts the product on the figure, carefully straightens and checks the position of the Darts, pockets, side seams, collars, etc.; specify size of individual parts and products in General. All the necessary changes in the product represent the conventional chalk marks. In full compliance with the product this shape it passed the master for further processing.

The product with chalk marks indicating changes, all seams are slit and carefully iron. After that, the cutter produces Omelko parts in accordance with these changes and sends the product to the preparation of the second fitting. 

In the preparation of the product to the second fitting handle pleats, yoke, bottom, collar, pockets, side (before the finishing line), loops and other details. Side and shoulder seams metiaut, umatyvaet lower collar into the neckline, sleeves in the openings. Primetyvajut collar, lining of the product and the lining sleeves.

The second fitting is carried out in basically the same way as the first. It differs only in that the second fitting finally clarify the side and shoulder seams, back vents, collar, sleeves and other parts. 

The weaknesses identified in the second fitting, remove and transfer product for further processing.

It is recommended to make the product with one fitting. In this case, cutting fabric, preparing for the fitting, holding the fitting and finishing of parts must be performed with high accuracy. In the preparation of the product to the fitting process side gasket, shelves namachivajut onto the side strip, wasteheat lapels, middle, side and shoulder seams of the back smatyvay and zametyvayut; umatyvaet sleeve and the lower collar. In winter clothes are made of an insulation gasket.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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