Dresses used in the casting or cap sleeves, short or long, wide or narrow. The bottom of sleeves processed with obrazkami or cuffs.
Treatment hem sleeveless obrazkami. For convenience to wear from the lower edge of the sleeves through the elbow outline mold of tuck, who sew and iron towards the top of the sleeves. Bottom of sleeves are decorated with obrazkami, the upper edge of which is overcast or zastrugivajut on the machine. The facing is applied to the bottom of the sleeves inside out and pritachivajut seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see the folded Seam to the facing and scribbled from the piping at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam. The lower sections of the sleeves and the sides of obcutek grind off the seam width 1.0 - 1.5 cm Bottom seam of the sleeve rautureau or iron toward the front of the sleeve.Seam piping rautureau, the excess tissue cut. Piping bend on the wrong side of the sleeves and zametyvayut on the bottom of the straight stitches with a length of 1.0 - 1.5 cm, perepuska bottom sleeve 0.1 - 0.3 cm.
The top of obcutek attached to the sleeves, concealed stitches on a special machine. Bottom of sleeves priorivet.
Treatment of bottom of sleeves banded cuffs. Sleeves with banded cuffs in the products of wool and silk fabrics treated in the following way. After processing the bottom seam of the sleeve on the bottom zastrugivajut the edge of the zipper seam closed itagiba the cut width of 0.4 - 0.5 cm (Fig. 111). Cut the cuffs can manufacturing various types of loops to fasten the cuffs and button cufflinks.
On the upper side of one end of each cuff is treated with a loop.
Vetochnogo loop of cord is cut and attached from the front side so that their edging edge came under the line of the grinding of the ends of the cuff (Fig. 112). Fold the cuff inside out and grind the ends of the seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see the Seams, in corners cut, turn the cuff on the front side, straighten seams and priorivet. Cuff pritachivajut to the cuffs on smachiwausa-overlock machine, laying folds on the sleeves (ndsatcom) and bending the ends of the clasp 1 cm towards the inside of the sleeves (Fig. 113,a).
When processing sleeves straight cuffs cotton dress buckle feature on the continuation of the lower seam of the sleeve. When cutting these sleeves make allowances of the fabric to the processing of the clasp. Neck the zipper seam zastrugivajut bodybu closed slice width 0,3 - 0,5 cm Lower sections of the sleeves gather into the string so that the width of the sleeve met the cuff size. The greatest number of assemblies should be at the top of the sleeve.
Stitching the bottom seam of the sleeves and connecting the treated cuffs with sleeves produce smachiwausa-overlock machine (Fig. 113, b).
Treatment of bottom of sleeves fold-over cuffs. Fold-over cuffs cut out in two parts: upper and lower cuffs that fold face inside and grind on the upper edge of the seam width 0.7 cm, turn the seam on the front side, straighten and cuff priorivet.
Fold-over cuffs connected to the sleeves slash a strip of cloth (binding) or podkralas the facing (Fig. 114). The upper section piping overcast or iron, bending towards the inside on 0,5 - 0,7 see grind off Ends of piping, the seam rautureau or decomposed. After treatment of the lower seams of sleeves, cuffs and piping put on the sleeve, equalizing sections, and pritachivajut to the bottom sleeve seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm. Piping bent towards the inside of the sleeves and scribbled on the sleeve at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge of the press or sew hidden stitches on a special machine.
Connection sleeveless arm openings. The dresses made of fabrics that easily stretch, the edges of the openings reinforce the stitching on the sanding machine.
Before ultimanium or setting sleeves in the armhole, it is recommended to lay a line Oktam on sanding machine.
Sleeve umatyvaet straight stitches with a length of 1 cm from the sleeves, distributing planting them in the areas of the openings according to the style.
Stachivaya sleeves from the neck seam with a width of 1.25 - 1.5 cm is Recommended to tacuati sleeves on a special machine (without matiwane). Thread ultimania sleeves removed. The seams are overcast.
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