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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Processing and connection of the yoke with the details of the bodice

Yoke configuration can be straight, oval, with external (exposed) and interior angles. Yoke connected to the main parts of the product bridging, nastronie and patch seams. 

 Straight yoke. When connecting bridging and sew-in sock seam straight yoke placed on the main part face down and pritachivajut. If the main parts need to be Assembly their form to primaqiune yoke. The seam of the yoke are bent (for cotton fabrics) or iron (on wool or silk fabrics) in the direction of yoke, and then scribbled it, applying presser foot with the guide (Fig. 95).

To connect a patch seam cut yoke bend inside the intended line. The width of the bent edge of the yoke is equal to the width of the stitching plus 0.5 - 1.0 cm depending on the tissue. Bent edge of yoke zametyvayut straight stitches with a length of 1.0 - 1.5 cm or on a special machine and priorivet. The yoke is applied on the front side details, namachivajut and scribbled with legs with wire. 

Edge oval flirts with the width of the seam felling greater than 0.5 cm grind pokrainini with strips of fabric (Fig. 96, 97). 

 Yoke external corners. When processing flirts with the outside corners on the front side plan a line of bending of the edge of the yoke. If the width of the felling of the yoke is greater than 0.5 cm, handle the parts of the yoke, grinding off their seam width 0.5 cm; then, the joints straighten or rautureau and turn. The edge of the yoke bends inside the intended line and zametyvayut (Fig. 98). In the yoke with a seam width of the felling is less than 0.5 cm if you cover your fabric in the corners laid so that its trimming edge is not out on the front side. 

 Yoke from the inner angles. In these coquettes corners grind pokrainini cloth strips in the corners of the seams netscout, not reaching a line 0.1 cm of the edge of the yoke bends, spawn and priorivet (Fig. 99). Processed the yoke is applied on the front side details on the planned line and scribbled. The width of the felling of the yoke set model.

PROCESSING BELTS 

Processing belts are produced in different ways. 

 Narrow belts (1,8 - 2,0 cm in finished form), fastened with a button, buckle or tie ends made in the following manner: a strip of fabric for the waistband is folded along the cuts back to back, then bend again, bending the ends of the belt and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge of the cotton dress with three sides, wool and silk - spinning. 

 Wide belts (3.5 to 5.0 cm in finished form), which button or buckle, are made with a lining of calico, nonwoven fabric, grosgrain ribbon. Striped fabric belt is folded face inward and grind off the end and longitudinal side seal seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, then the waist twist, edging edge strips and sew zastrugivajut.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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