Side edges of the shelves in products outerwear is treated with podborany. Podborta in most cases cut out separately from the shelves. In some models of podborta cut out together with shelves in the form of allowance on hem edges. Depend on the number of operations and their sequence when processing the side edges. 

Molding shelves

After treatment tucks, Princess seams, stitches, pockets, shelves products are subjected to wet-heat treatment to impart a convex shape to the desired size. In the products of technological design three-dimensional shape of the shelves ensures through design details. 
When the adhesive connecting the shelves with the side pads forming ledges occurs simultaneously with the connection of the shelves with the side gaskets.
The shaping of the shelves are performed setuipanel regional sections of the shelves. Value sutysky may be different. So, in the ladies ' products in which the convexity is achieved most often, the Darts, the amount sutysky the edges of the shelves is significantly less than in men's products. Value sutysky on separate sites also vary depending on design. 
In the molding of the shelves in the clothes of some species, in addition to sutysky, use quickdraw. So in the adjacent form shelves in the waist side pulled to different values depending on the degree of conformance of the product at the waist.
Slices sativum simultaneously on two shelves on the press with special pillows. For this, shelves for products made of thin and medium fabrics, put right sides inside, put on the bottom cushion of the press, combining the convexity of shelves and cushions. Formed on the edges of the slack evenly distribute and storevault during compaction. 
If the press do not exist, Stojko made by hand of iron in four doses from each of the shelves on the universal block. 
 The first appointment - shelves placed on the pad so that the top angle of the shoulder cut and the Board edge at the waist were on the oval edge of the pads. The slack formed at the edge of the lapel, sativum (Fig. 48, a). 
 The second method - shelves is moved on the pad and produisait side edges, satwiwa slack in the area of loops (Fig. 48, b). 
 Third reception - shelves have a shaped edge shoulder pads slices and slices the throat in the direction of running and storevault slack in the area of the neck (Fig. 48). 
 The fourth reception - shelves move cuts armholes in the direction of running so that the bulge was located on the edge of the oval pads. The slack formed in the region of the openings, sativum (Fig. 48, g). 
The correctness suteki side edges of the shelves is determined by placing shelves on a table and bending side edges on the line of prosanos in the direction of the shelves. With proper stuike side edges of the shelves must not be slack and should be combined with shelves. 
The shape and dimensions of the shelves specify before or after their connection with the side strip.
To connect with side strip shelves specify side when the strip is processed completely and connecting it with the shelves provided on special presses-machines (if the adhesive processing). In this case, the right and left shelves folded face inwards and the top part of the support patterns mark out the contours of the neck, the shoulders, the lapels, sides and bottom of the shelves.
The edge is cut along planned lines, cutting at the same time the allowance for bending the bottom and making the notch control to handle the lower inner corners of podborov by machine and for processing the boards. In products with a larger seam allowance on ACC bottom (children, men and women from tissues high the list of groups) the allowance is cut. In the products of dyed fabrics shelves can be cut on the cutting machine packs in 5 - 10 pairs. 
Clarification of the shelves after connecting them with a side strip, see below.
If the edges of the shelves Stojko not met, clarification of the shelves to produce is not necessary.

Connection of shelves with side spacers 

For connecting the shelves with the side strips used threading or adhesive bonding methods.
When the thread method, the shelf connected to the side strips by a special machine. Shelves put on the side strip, equalizing and combining the edge bulges in the chest area. Shelves namachivajut on the side strip three lines: the first line feature in the middle of the bulge of the breast from the shoulder sections to the side pockets; the second is parallel to the neck, the fold line of the lapels and edge of a Board at a distance of 3 - 4 cm; the third slices parallel to the shoulder at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from the edge sections of the openings and the inner sections of the strip at a distance of 3 to 4 cm from the slices (Fig. 49, a).To connect the shelves with the side strips on sanding the car, doing lines at a distance of 0.5 - 0.8 cm from the slices armholes, neck and the folds of the lapels on the site with a length of 5-7 cm from the throat
guilt in models with lapels. The lines should not reach the shoulder sections 5 - 7 cm (Fig. 49, b). At the side sections of the gasket connect with the edge. 
With perfect way to connect the shelves with the side strip on the press. 
In children's products and women's products, technological design, and in which the length of the shelves is created by Darts, the side strips of adhesive tissue that connect the press with the flat pillow. If model podborta tselnokrajnie with shelf, the lower part of the gasket stuck on podborta (Fig. 50).
In the men's products, the connection of the shelves with the side strips of fabric powdered adhesive coating, with simultaneous shaping to produce presses with special cushions separately for the right and left shelves.
Connecting the side strips without adhesive coating with the adhesive film produced as follows. Adhesive is applied to the side laying on a special machine: the products with the top and tuck decorative seams in the upper parts of the Darts and seams at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from shoulder slices on the side strip - cut armholes, side cut by the line of inflection lapel.
The thus treated parts are placed on the bottom cushion of the press: first shelf underside up, and then the side strip of the adhesive film down, combining the convexity of the bottom cushion presses, shelves and gaskets. If the edges of shelves and spacers were cut to their connections, the side strip is applied so that the edge of the adhesive edge laid along the side edges of the strip, was located from the slices shelves at the distance specified in table. 8. 
At the shoulder sections and the sections of the arm openings of the side shelves and side strips must match. 3атем straighten the ends of the pockets, dolevikov.
Pressing parts of the upper cushion press connect shelves with side strip. 
After molding of the shelves to the side strip sew the pockets on dolevikov sanding or special machines or manually slanted stitches with a length of 0.7 cm If the side pockets are arranged obliquely or vertically, burlap pockets are also sewn to the side strip. 

Stitch lapels

Stitch lapels are required to connect the shelves with the side pad in the lapels and give them additional stability. Lapels wasteheat on a special machine with a hidden stitch lines parallel to the fold line of the lapels. The first line performs at a distance of 1.0 cm from the bend line towards the armhole. The following lines have a distance from one another, the coat - 0.5 cm in suits - 0,2 - 0,5 cm Finish lines at a distance of 1.0 - 1.5 cm from the slices of the parts.
To the lapels well unbent, it is necessary when you stitch between the lines to form the slack of the strip. This is achieved by curving lapels when wystawianie. The value of landings between the lines needs to be up to 0.1 cm 
In products with adhesive pad at the lapels of her connect with the shelves on the press with special pillows. Due to the convex shape of the pillows creates the seam allowance of the strip relative to the upper material of the lapel. Stitch lapels, you can also do hand quilting stitches.
After stitching the lapels priorivet. In products from fine fabrics on lapels attach additional strips of calico, in the finished product after the hot-lapels through the fabric of podborta was not visible traces of quilting stitches. Overlays connected by stitching on the machine blind stitch on the inner edge of the strip. 

Prutivka shelves before cropping

After connecting with the side strips and the stitching of lapels thread way shelves priorivet separately on the press with a special pillow or iron on the special pad. In this case, the shelf priorivet in three steps: slicing the sides and the lapels, the cut of the neckline and cut of armholes, ending the operation utjuzhkoj entire side of the strip with the rectify forms of convexity. 

The connection of the shelves with the back 

of Shelves can be joined with back to Refine the shape and sizes of side slicers or after clarification, depending on the organization of work.
The side sections of the shelves and backs to grind on the back, aligning the reference notch. In the products of adjacent silhouette back pokazyvaut in the blades, and a shelf in the region of the side pockets. 
In models with pull-tabs at the same time stachivaya the ends of the tabs. The side seams manually rautureau iron or press with special pillows. 

Omelka and pruning (oskarovka) side edges and the bottom of the products

The surgery is performed to Refine the final shape and sizes of side sections and the bottom of the product, align the right and left parts of the product. Side edges do not specify if design podborta tselnokrajnie with shelves or stojka at the edge of a Board not designed (technological design).
The surgery is performed in the following way: the product is folded in half laying inside, aligning the side seams, tucks and upper slices, and spread on the table side sections in the direction of running. When almalki edges mens of items placed on the table with the left shelf up so you can mark the hinges on the left shelf single-breasted products. In addition, with this arrangement, edges of the patterned fabrics is more convenient to perform Omelko and trim based on the location of the picture.
For almalki the edges of the parts to use three templates: one for the neck, the second for side edges, the third for the bottom of the product. Sometimes Omelko produce two patterns. On a shelf are placed the auxiliary pattern, exactly it with the upper angle of the neck so that the sections of the sides and lapel were not more than 0,7 cm. On the pattern mark the line of the neck, the lapel and sides. Excess and bumps on the neck, the lapel and Board cut oznacovani machine simultaneously on both shelves.
A mold for almalki bottom placed so that the sections of the shelves and backs were no more than 0,5 - 0,7 see the patterns On the marked line and sew the hems. The hem is cut along the planned lines also oznacovani machine. 
In products with slit (slit) when cutting the bottom, cut out the allowance for the ACC, leaving a seam allowance of 0.5 cm, and make the notch for turning corners.
If, in accordance with the technical specifications the product is manufactured with an increased allowance for ACC (in children products, men's and women's products from tissues high the list of groups), allowance for bending down the edges of the cut are not cut. 
After cutting the bottom simultaneously by two halves of the product to deploy and specify the underline in the middle. Then mark from the inside of the product breaklines lapel and bottom line bending in front of the shelves, as well as the location of the hinges.
In products with internal (hidden) clasp when trimming the side edges of the shelves (right in female products left in male) performed the notch determining the length of your clasp. Accordingly, these shelves between nasecki leave a seam allowance of 0.5 - 0.7 see
Side edges and the bottom of the product can be cut without the prior almalki support patterns in omorovicza semiautomatic Smirnov. The product is folded in the same way as when cutting by hand (with scissors or oznacovani machine), and put on the table onorojono machine right ( in the women's products) or the left (in men's products) shelf upwards, placing the side sections so that they overlap corresponding to the shape of the slits in the top of the table by 0.7 - 1.0 cm. To the edge of the shelf is lowered down. plate.The knife, moving across the cutting table inside the pressure plate, trims excess fabric at the edges to the correct shape. The sides and hem are cut separately.
If the processing of the side edges provides for the paving edge, then immediately after the correction of the shelves and cut the side strip to reduce the thickness of the seams on the ledges of the lapels, the lapels and Board at a distance of 0.8 - 1.0 cm from the slices. On the bottom side strip is cut at 0.3 cm above the line of bending of the shelves. 

The laying edge

To solidify after suteki three-dimensional shape of the shelves, protection of the edges from stretching during wear, and the fixing side strip at the side edges of the shelves lay an edge (special linen ribbon or striped cotton fabric with one-side adhesive coating). Edge also lay at the bottom of the garment (children - at a length of 15 cm, male and female in the length of 30 cm from the side edge) and along the line of inflection lapel (in products with lapels).
When routing edges, pull it, ensuring the fit of the shelves. The magnitude of the landing sections in different parts of the side edges, depending on the kind, style and size of product is different. 
In products single breasted closure to top landing side of a small cut in the double-breasted lapels, the fit should be more. The ultimate fit and perform the middle and upper parts of the edges of the lapel. 
In the plots below the inflection of the lapel to every 10 cm length side cut shelves pokazyvaut 0.1 cm by the same amount pokazyvaut the bottom edge of the product.
Estimated value of the landing edges of the shelves in the manufacture of men's suits from wool fabrics on sites (cm):

The outer edges have a distance from the slices of shelves (cm): 
when grinding on the edge - in the sides and the lapels of 0.4 - 0.5, at the mouth of 0.8 - 0.9 down to 0.2 - 0.3 of the bend lines of the bottom; 
when grinding near the edge - in the sides and the lapels of 0.6 - 0.7, at the mouth of 1.0 - 1.2 down to 0.2 - 0.3 of the fold line. 
At the breakline of the lapel edge is laid at 2/3 the length of the line of inflection. The edge release in the cut the neck into 2 - 3 cm for connection to the breakline of the lapel and collar in the finished product. If the lapel glue, edge, the inflection is not laid.
Linen edge first primetyvajut on a special machine, and then sew the side strip on the inner edge on the machine blind stitch a hidden stitch. On the outer edge of the edge is produced grinding the sides. Edge laid along the crest of the lapel, sew on a special machine with both edges. In the corners of the lapels hem sew by hand.
Adhesive edge pave hand-iron or pritachivajut on sanding machine to cut the side strip to connect it with shelves. In this case, the edge of the gasket will stick to the shelf during compaction.
The edge of paving in the side sections of shelves blazers of wool fabrics with synthetic fibers and other products; where applicable. In this case, the grinding of the sides is produced on the side strip or cotton strip with a width of 2.5 - 3 cm, cut oblique direction yarns and pricechannel to the outlet side strip for sanding machine. 
Edge not lay also in products with a side strip of adhesive materials.
After laying the linen edge of the planting shelves sativum, protiva shelves themselves. For this lapels, side and bottom of the product moisturizes, fit shelves to the edge storevault from the strip:width of 10-12 cm from the edges of the shelves, straightening the irregularities around the edge of collars and lapels. 
Each shelf sativum separately on the block of iron in four ways: 1st method - on the edge of the lapel; 2nd reception on the fold line of the lapel; 3rd reception at the edge of a Board; 4th reception at the edge of the armhole. At the same time shelves produisait removing samini when moving from one section of shelves to another.
The quality of performance suteki check external examination and length measurement of the edges of both shelves. 
Stoica planting shelves on the adhesive edge is made simultaneously with the laying edge. 

Grinding the sides of the 

Side edges of the shelves to grind special type machine PMZ class 20B, which provides a landing, the bottom of the fabric when grinding or sanding machine with advanced namachivayam. 
 Namachivaya of podborov. Namachivaya produce timetoknow the car across the length of the sides or from the crest line to the bottom edge of the Board. The products from fabrics print top podborta namachivajut manual stitches. 
Podborta placed on the front side of the side edges of the shelves face inward, overlapping side sections of shelves 1.2 - 1.5 cm, shoulder slices 0.8 - 1.0 cm and namachivajut on the shelves on special timetoknow car. 
Can basting podbortahand stitches: in the products of dyed fabrics - slant of fabrics with patterns - straight lines, having a line 1.5 - 2 cm from the slices. Length of hand stitches at the corners of the collars and lapels of 0.7 - 1.0 cm, the rest of 1.5 - 2.0 cm of Podborta when namatanai pokazyvaut in the corners of the lapels on 0.5 - 0.7 cm, in other parts of the lapels - 0.4 - 0.5 cm, between each pair of loops - 0.2 cm; shelves pokazyvaut 0.2 - 0.3 cm in the lower corners of the boards.
In models without lapels when namachivaya of podborov shelves pokazyvaut in the upper corners to create slack to get the edging of the fabric shelves. After namachivanija of podborta should overlap sections of shelves of 0.3 - 0.4 cm the fabric (strips or cage) on both shelves should be strictly parallel to their edges and conform to one another. 
Planting podborov the lapels and on the Board storevault from podborov width 3 to 4 cm from the cut edges in press. If the landing is small, there may be future treatment without stivania landing. 
 Grinding the sides. Before grinding in the corners of the lapels and sides of the auxiliary patterns outline the line of grinding to get the exact shape of the corners. The Board will be turned from the shelves in the corners - the lines at the edges of the boards - along the edge at a distance of 0.1 cm from the outer edge or near the edge at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from its outer edge.
When grinding the side on a special machine type 206 class PMZ without prior namachivanija of podborta with shelves fold right sides inwards, perepuska them for sections of the shelves of 0.3 - 0.4 cm, and grind, aligning the reference notch on podborta and shelves. The width of the seam, grinding of the sides are shown in table. 8. 

Table 8 Width of the seam, grinding of the sides depending on the way you handle them

Seams, grinding of the sides rautureau on a special pad manually by an iron or press with a special pillow. After reputazione the seam allowances are cut with scissors from the shelves or podborov, depending on the method of processing the side edges. 
In the products of the cotton fabric side grind with simultaneous laying of the edge and landing podborov and shelves for the edge, positioning the stitching 0.2 cm from the outer edge of the edge. The inner edge of the edge sew with a blindstitch machine. 
 Grinding the bottom corners of the boards. When grinding the side edges of the man's products (coat, jacket) to simultaneously grind the bottom corners of the boards. The inner edge of podborov pritachivajut to the allowance for ACC products, seam width 0.5 cm, ending the line at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the cut edge of the hem. The line should pass 0.1 - 0.15 cm below the bottom line bending, and the ends of the cuts - at a distance of 0.1 cm from the slices (Fig. 52, a). The allowance for bending the bottom shelves in the corners of the sides cut out.
In the women's and children's products side grind to the bottom of the shelves (Fig. 52, b). After reputazione seams of stitching around the lapels and the sides of the hem and podborta bends and sutured on a special machine, finishing line in the middle of the width of podborov (Fig. 52). 
 Corner treatment slots back. In products with a cut down the middle of the back corners slots are processed before processing the lower edge of the product.
In products where the allowance for bending the bottom corners of the slots cut, seam allowance slots face inward bend and grind the SS breaklines bottom seam width 0.5 cm, aligning the reference notch. The side edges of the slots pritachivajut to the allowance for bending of the back at the bottom, not reaching lower sections of 1.5 - 2.0 cm (Fig. 53, a). 
The products made of expensive fabrics, as well as in children's products where the allowance for bending the bottom not cut corners slot to grind from stock to the processing slots below the bottom line bending products 0.1 - 0.15 cm
In children's products with a larger seam allowance corners slot not grind, and that bends according to the planned lines, zametyvayut and hand-filed slanted stitches (Fig. 53, b). 
Seams turning corners slots rautureau, pre-cutting the excess fabric in the corners. 

The inflorescence emerge the sides and cover your bottom of the product

operation is giving final shape to the side edges and the bottom of the garment and the temporary fixing of the dowry forms.
Side edges of the spawn after grinding the sides and resoluzione seams. Podborta bend towards the inside of the shelves, the edges of spawn, straightening, grinding of the seam and positioning it in the products with flaps on the edges of cliffs and lapels to the top loop of the clasp to the side of the shelves so as to form a Kant from podborov. From the top loop to the bottom seam straighten in the direction of podborov, forming the edging of the shelves. In products with Velcro to the top edge of the form along the entire length of the sides of the shelves. Simultaneously with the inflorescence emerge sides zametyvayut the bottom of the product.
The angles of the lapels and the sides of the spawn hand slanted stitches, the edges of the sides and hem - machine mymethodname stitches. The lines fulfill at a distance from the side edges 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the bottom of the product is 1.0 - 1.5 cm

Processing boards products with inner zipper 

In the shelf (right in female products, left - male), which provides an internal closure, before grinding the side edge of the disposal site closure between nasecki grind a strip of lining fabric. Seam grinding side clips depending on model as well as in the sides with the usual clasp.
When the inflorescence emerge oblasnogo the edges of the shelves form an edge with a width of 0.2 - 0.3 see the Edge of a Board priorivet and perform a finishing line, and then connect to podborom, which were previously treated clasp (see here). 
Podborta connect as well as the handling of the boards with the usual clasp. 

Processing boards in the products shift podborta

In products where the shelf tselnokrajnie with podborany (for the entire length or only on the lapel), processing of side edges is simplified, as the number of operations required in the processing of the sides of the cutting podborany, in this case (trim side edges, namachivaya of podborov on the shelf, grinding, etc.).
The Board is treated in the following order. After molding of the shelves from the inside is applied to the breaklines side edges of the shelves and line the corners of the lapel, which are placed side strip and edge. The corners of the lapel and sides first, grind along the planned lines, rautureau and cut, then turn on the front side and spawn manually or on a special machine; zametyvayut edges of the boards, persiba their guidelines.
In the models of women's and children's coats tech design with the use of adhesive materials side spacer placed 1.5 - 2.0 cm behind the line of the kink rail, so the side edges of the edge of paving. 
Subsequent processing of the side edges and the bottom of the product does not differ from the processing side edges of the cutting podborany. 

Processing of side edges at the same time the edges of the collar

This method is used when processing products with a shawl collar and turn-down collar, as this allows to simplify the grinding Raskatov collar and podborov and improve the quality of the operation. 
For simultaneous processing of side edges and edges of collar after stitching the edge side sew shoulder seams and stachivaya lower collar. Then nadechka raskay grind off the seam width 1.0 cm. Seams grinding rautureau.
Collar with podborany namachivajut on the edge of the product, and then will be turned on a sanding machine with a knife or on a special machine. In the women's products grind all the edges, in the male by the collar to grind only departure. Further processing is the same as previously described. After the buttonhole bead and the edge of the collar primetyvajut on a special machine: podborta - sections parallel to the inner collar at the crest line of the rack. 
Raskatov seams sewn to the side strip of hand stitches. If the length of the welds not more than 6 cm, they can be for the side strip not to sew.

Wet-heat treatment of the sides and bottom of the product 

Wet-heat treatment the side edges to produce the final shape, Refine the edges. Treatment consists of moistening the side edges and the bottom of the product, improve the shape of its edges and pressing. 
The edge of the product is compressed in several stages from the shelves in lapel and podborov from the top loop of the clasp to the bottom of the product. 
In products with a slit in the back is additionally pressed the cut edges are on the bottom of the product.