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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Processing buckles skirt

The PROCESSING AND ASSEMBLY of SKIRTS, 

Skirts design, and hence the treatment is sharply different from the products of the group's coats and jackets. 

Consider the processing of the main parts of the skirt. 

PROCESSING of FASTENERS

IN accordance with the model of skirts, clasps (hooks, buttons, loops and buttons, zippers) are in the middle of the front or rear panels, side seams, pleats or skirts. 

Processing of fasteners, and hook and loop 

 closure Processing on the front panel of the skirt. From the inside of the front cloth skirts on the auxiliary curve marked line side edges and end fasteners. To protect the edges from stretching, strengthening places of Priselci hooks, buttons, etc. from the mating fasteners on the intended line lay with a little tension dolevik strip of cotton fabric. It pritachivajut on the inner side at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the marking line (Fig. 66, a).

For protection of the cut fabric from fraying the cut edge of the front cloth skirts of wool fabric edging stripe lining fabric width 1.5 - 2.0 cm edge of the strips equalize with the cut of the cloth, the lower end of the strip bends towards the inside of 0.8 - 1.0 cm and grind the seam width 0.4 cm Strip of fabric bent around the suture and forming a smooth edge with a width of 0.4 - 0.5 cm, and scribbling on the front side in the seam primaqiune Kant (Fig. 66, b).In skirts, of cotton tissue slit edge bend in the direction of the strip, bending it to 0.7 cm, and zastrugivajut 0.2 cm from the edge.

In skirts without finishing the belt seam allowance on the clasp bend along the marked line with the wrong side up and grind along the top seam width 0.7 cm from the edge of the buckle to the notch that defines the beginning of Priselci grosgrain ribbon (Fig. 66,). The seam in the corner of the clasp is cut, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.2 - 0.3 see the Corners turn and spawn manually from the allowance for ACC at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. The edge of the zipper on the side zametyvayut manual stitches from the seam allowance to the ACC at a distance of 0.7 cm from the fold, and then priorivet from the inside out through protohellenic (Fig. 66, g).

 Treatment of fastener on the back panel of the skirt. In skirts of wool fabric slit edge edging, and a strip of lining fabric seam width 0.4 - 0.5 cm (Fig. 66, d). The lower end of the strip bends towards the inside of 0.8 - 1.0 cm, the seam wrap around stripe sateen, forming edge with a width of 0.4 - 0.5 cm, and fixed with stitching. 

Domestic cut the strips to buckle inside by 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. At the same time scribbled lower edge of the strip.

In skirts, of cotton tissue slit edge grind stripe satin stitch with a width of 0.4 - 0.5 cm of the Strip are bent towards the inside and the edge of the scribble at a distance of 0.2 cm, forming the edge of the main fabric with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm inside edge of the piping to buckle inside 1.0 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.3 cm from the bent edge, at the same time zastraivaya the lower end of the piping (Fig. 66, e). The edge of the clasp priorivet. 

 The connection of the upper and lower parts of the clasp. Bond the top and bottom parts of the fasteners combined with the connection of the main parts of the skirt.

If basic details on the model are connected by bridging seams and grind them rautureau or rautureau, and then iron. The seam should be a continuation of the fold edge of the upper part of the clasp. 

If basic details on the model are connected with a fold, a crease on the front panel of the skirt zametyvayut, priorivet and namachivajut on the back panel of the skirt. 

After connecting the main parts of the end clasp fastened two transverse lines, performing them 1 cm above the lower end of the seam allowance on the edges.

In some models on the edge of the zipper do the stitching. In models without the finishing stitches bend the upper part of the clasp fixed uspeshnymi stitches or adhesive tape. In the latter case, the tape lay near the line of bending to bend the edges of the clasp. 

Processing of zipper tape zipper

This clasp is more widely spread, as it is convenient in operation and has a good appearance. The braid and the zipper clasp can be positioned so that it was not visible in the finished product. To protect linen from possible seizure by lightning, the processing of clasps use a safety strap.

The safety bar handle is made of lining fabric or from lining and main fabrics. Striped lining fabric width 8 - 9 cm and length equal to the length of the clasp, bend along the middle face inward, the upper and lower ends of zastrugivajut seam of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Bar turn and edging edge overcast on a special machine, and then priorivet.

When you use strips of the main and lining fabrics both bars grind together on both sides, and then turn. The inner and lower side of the bar overcast on a special machine (Fig. 67, a).

3астежку braid lightning process in the following way. When razoruzhenie seam or pleats in which the model needs to be closure, at the same time iron the edges. The braid and the zipper is put on press the edges pritachivajut to them and a seam width of 0.5 cm, with the edge zipper at the level of the inflection edges of the clasp (Fig. 67, b). The edges of the tapes scribbled on the front side in accordance with the model, primativa at the same time placed under the rear panel of the skirt in the safety bar (Fig. 67,). Serged edge trims are fitted to the rear panel.The ends of the braid zastrugivajut, bending them at an angle to the zipper.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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