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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Processing of fasteners

Women's and children's dresses are made with fasteners of different types: for loop and buttons, zipper, buttons etc. in Addition to its primary purpose, the fastener may serve as a finish product. 

During the processing of the fasteners, apply the following types of loops: otechnye, serged, vetochnogo or braided cord, stitched seam trims, etc. 

 Obecnie loop (see here) manufactured dresses, of wool and silk fabrics. The loop size must be greater than the diameter of the buttons 0.2 cm 

 Sewn loops is performed on special machines and is used currently in all women's and children's products.

Loop features depending on the style of the product or equity in the transverse direction; they are set by the patterns of the front side parts and overcast with thread the color of the fabric. The ends of the thread after serging the cut. 

 Loop of cord vetochnogo are made as follows. Cut the strip width of 2.0 - 2.5 cm from the main fabric at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. The strip is folded face inward and sew at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the kinked region; the suture is cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0,-2 - 0.3 cm and turn on the front side of the hand or knitting needle; receive a cord, which form loops.

The cord cut into the size of the loop plus 1 cm, is applied according to the planned lines on the front side of the clasp and attach by machine stitching or 3 to 4 stitches each end of the loop so that the stitch or stitches caught in the seam when handling the edges of the clasp (Fig. 105). 

 Braided from strands of a loop used in products (according to model) from woolen thick fabric. Loop weave by hand from the two ends of the threads, plucked from the underlying tissue, forming a round cord. Braided cord is not cut and loop is made from the whole cord, bending it in places of attachment. Bend the ends of the loops come to a trimming edge of the clasp and secured with two to four stitches. 

Often in dresses, blouses apply the clasp to the loop in the strap a stitched seam (Fig. 106). Such hinges are used in products with zipper top, placing them along the right shelves.

Loop handle strap, cut common thread. One slice straps overcast or zastrugivajut on the machine seam bodybu. The bar put on the right shelf face inward, equating sections of the shelves and trims, and primetyvajut; then outline the patterns of the location of the hinges. The first loop is scheduled for 1.0 - 1.5 cm. below the cut of the neck. The size of the loops and the distance between them is set according to the model. The bar pritachivajut to the right shelf, at the locations of hinges make passes shirts.Each loop at the beginning and at the end of the fixed reverse machine stitch or leave the ends of thread and tie them in a double knot. Thread primitivne strap is removed, the seam rautureau.

Strap is encircled by the suture clasps and primetyvajut it near the hinges. From the bottom of the zipper placket is cut on the loops and sew hidden stitches around the hinges. The edges of the clasp on the left shelf is treated with a seam allowance of fabric. The clasp priorivet. 

Processing buckles at the chest zip can be done in different ways depending on the location and function of the clasp.

In the manufacture of fine silk fabrics such closure handle with safety strap. Bar of a length corresponding to the length of the fastener, and a width of 8 - 10cm cut out of the main fabric. Then the strap handle, folding it lengthwise face inward and obtachivaya seam width 0.7 cm on the top and bottom slices. Bar twist on the front side, straighten corners, spawn and priorivet. Edging edge strips combine and overcast on a special machine.

If the zipper braid zipper processed in the side seam of the dress, at the place of its location the seam smatyvay and rautureau (Fig. 107). The zipper is placed face down on the wrong side of the fastener, primetyvajut straight stitches with a length of 1.0 - 1.5 cm and scribbled on the front side of the clasp. When processing clasp with safety strap enclose her bottom when nastraivanie the side clasps (Fig. 108).

The zipper braid zipper located on the back of women's garments without seams and folds, are treated in the context of the primary one or two obrazkami. On the back from the front outline of the patterns the location of the fasteners, place the facing inside out and pritachivajut two lines at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from one another. Between the lines of the backrest and the facing cut (with the corners at the ends). Turn the facing to the wrong side of the back, area at the end of the clasp zastrugivajut two machine stitches. The edge of the clasp and spawn priorivet.The braid and the zipper is applied to the fastener from the inside of the back, primetyvajut, and then scribbled on the front side (Fig. 109). The finished clasp priorivet.

In the women's dresses are often used fasteners on hooks and buttons; these fasteners it is recommended to treat with an edge or strip for strength snap hooks and buttons and protect the edges of the zipper from stretching.

 Hooks on the products of woolen and silk fabrics, sewn by hand. For this plan by the patterns of their location on the underside of the clasp; fabric is pierced with a special device at scheduled points. The lugs of the hooks are inserted into the holes and sew over the fabric and the gasket 9 - 10 stitches behind the ears and around the bend. On the products of cotton fabric allowed to sew hooks on a special machine. On the underside of the clasp hooks respectively location plan location of manufactured from yarn loops with a length of 0.4 - 0.5 cm.For the manufacture of such hinges lay 3 to 4 of the longitudinal thread in the color of the main fabric and overcast them in buttonhole stitches.

Buttons on the top and bottom side of the fastener manually sew 3 to 4 stitches in each hole.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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