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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Processing of sleeves without the slot and with the slots

PROCESSING AND ASSEMBLY of SLEEVES 

With a large variety of designs sleeveless products outerwear the most typical are casting double seam of the sleeve lining. Processing and Assembly of such sleeves is performed as follows. 

TREATMENT LINING SLEEVELESS 

In the processing of lining first pritachivajut extensions to the halves of the sleeve. Flatlock carry out side extensions. Grind off the front sections for the upper halves of sleeve, aligning the reference notch and Posiva lower halves of the sleeves are 0.4 - 0.5 cm at the elbow. The width of all seams of the lining are equal 1, see If the hose lining on the model will stachivaya in the lining of the product, the front seam of the lining of one of the arms leave nextchannel middle part length 15 - 18 cmElbow seams of the lining can be ground off at the same time with elbow seams of a sleeveless top after connecting them on the bottom slices.

PROCESSING of SLEEVES WITHOUT the SLOT AND WITH the SLOTS 

Processing of the front seams 

sew the Front sections to the upper half of sleeves and fit the bottom halves in the middle part between nasecki 0.3 - 0.5 cm In sleeves with tabs, opening the joints to grind, putting the finishing details on ndsatcom. Front seams rautureau, simultaneously pulling the top half of the sleeve width, equal to about 3 to 4 cm Operation performed on the press with the special pillows or iron on the Shoe. 

Sleeves products with nastronie elbow seams, front seams makes only 10 - 15 cm from the bottom slices. 

Treatment of bottom of sleeves

At the lower ends of the front side of the sleeves on the auxiliary pattern obmeleet line bending. From the inside out by the patterns of the marked slots. To increase stability the bottom edges, and sewing the bent sections at the bottom of the sleeves lay strips of fabric (calico, calico, nonwoven fabric) with a width of 5 - 6 cm Lining feature from the inside of the sleeve so that its lower end coincides with nasecki and the line of bending the bottom sleeve. The upper edge of the strip to sew machine blind stitch at a distance of 1 cm from the upper edge of the strip.The gasket can also be connected to press an adhesive film which is applied on the gasket at a distance of 0.2 cm from upper edge on one side and 1.0 cm from the bottom. The strip of fabric with an adhesive coating is bonded on the bottom edge sleeves from the allowance for ACC. The gasket can be joined together with pritachivajut lining at the cuffs. The gasket of the two parts can be secured with the stitching of the front seams or the processing of the corners of the slots.After fixing the gasket cuffs zametyvayut on a special machine, not reaching the elbow sections 2 - 3 cm, and then priorivet on the press.

Treatment of elbow sections of 

the sleeves without vent elbow sections sew a seam 1 cm wide from the bottom halves of the sleeves fit the upper halves of the sleeves at the elbow in the plot of length 8 - 12 cm; the size of the landing is equal to 0.4 - 0.5 cm Seams rautureau on a special block with an iron or press.

In nastronie sleeves with elbow seams flatlock performed on the upper halves of the sleeve seam with the width of 0.5 cm; the lower half of the sleeves cut out for the top the width of the finishing stitches. After grinding the seams rautureau first, and then iron towards the upper halves of the sleeves and scribbled on a machine with guide line.

Sleeves with vitacreme slots (Fig. 59, a) when the elbow stitching seams simultaneously to grind edges and a slot seam with the width of 0.5 cm Allowances of seams in the upper and lower corners of the slot cut before reaching the line by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, then the stitches rautureau and stock slots iron in the upper halves of the sleeves.

The sleeves unfastened slots (Fig. 59, b) first grind off the bottom corners of the slot, for which the allowance for the slots in the upper halves of the sleeves fold inside out and sew the bottom seam with the width of 0.5 cm, not reaching the edges at 0.5 cm then grind off the elbow sections and the edges of the slot. Allowances of seams in the upper and lower corners of the slot with cut sides of bottom halves of the sleeves, not reaching the lines of 0.1 - 0.2 see the Slots turn on the front side, straighten and iron in the upper halves of the sleeves. Elbow seams iron.

In sleeves with open slots (Fig. 59 in) grind off the corners of the slot from the upper halves of the lines from the lower halves around the edge of the seam allowance on the processing of bottom of sleeves with seam widths of 0.5 cm, the Angles turn inside the slot on the front side and spawn on a special machine at the same time zamatyvala bottom of sleeves. After processing the slot and the bottom of the sleeves and sew rautureau elbow seams. 

The connection of the lining with sleeves 

Lined pritachivajut to the allowance for bending the bottom sleeve seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm, combining elbow seams and the notch.

Sleeve without slots or with slots vitaclay lining can be connected with the allowance for bending the bottom sleeve to the processing of elbow joints of the sleeves and lining. In this case, the connection of the lining sleeve can be combined with pritachivajut strip, positioning it on the bottom of the sleeve so that the lower section of the strip aligned with the line of bending the bottom sleeve and the upper section was converted adhesive film down. Primaqiune perform from the side of the lining, ending the line at a distance of 3 - 4 cm from the ends.

Bottom of sleeves zametyvayut on a special machine, bending allowance on the lines or nadechka, not reaching end of 3 - 4 cm Hem sleeveless priorivet, wherein the gasket is attached to the sleeve, if it was previously laid adhesive film. 

To fasten the bent section of the sleeve is stitched to the strip on the machine blind stitch or hand slanted stitches. 

Elbow seams lining connected to the elbow joints of the sleeves on a sanding machine, and nastronie sleeves with elbow seams - blindstitch machine. Then turn the sleeve on the front side, straighten and priorivet.

Wet-heat о6ра6отка finished sleeve 

Ready sleeve priorivet and stripped on the press with a special pillow or iron. The pillow is placed with the top end inside the wide end of the sleeve up to the elbow seam was located on the edge of the pillow. The bottom of the sleeve located on the pillow, moisturize and priorivet through the strip, straightening the edges of the sleeves. Then the sleeve is twisted and priorivet on the other side. After Ironing the sleeves first be washed and ironed and stripped of the lower half of the sleeves, and then the top.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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