In coats, jackets, jackets for finishing, fasteners and other purposes using various small details: belt loops, pull tabs, PATA, belts, valves, leaflets, etc. Handling these items varies and depends on the shape and size of the parts, and the properties of the tissues from which they are made.
Processing slavok
Loops are used to secure the belt in coats, jackets, pants. The belt loops can be narrow (1 - 1.2 cm), medium (2 - 2.5 cm) and wide (6 - 10 cm).
Narrow belt loops, handle, unlined. Edge loops impose one on another 1 - 1.5 cm, outer cutoff bends inwards at 0.5 cm and scribbled in the middle of the loops at a distance of 0.2 cm from the bent edge (Fig. 21, a).
Narrow loops of heavy and medium fabrics sew on the edge-overlock machine or on a machine with a zigzag stitching with a weakened. the needle thread tension (Fig. 21, b). Unwrap the belt loops, placing the line in the middle, and priorivet press or iron. The belt loops can be made on a two needle machine (Fig. 21).
The average width of the belt loops, handle, unlined and lined. The belt loops unlined grind on the side of cut the seam width 0.5 cm belt Loops and turn priorivet (Fig. 21, g).
The belt loops can be handle adhesive edging fabric. In this case, from her cut detail in the form of loops, is applied to the underside of the loops of the adhesive layer up; the side sections of the bends of the loops, placing the edges at the butt and priorivet (Fig. 21, d, e). Such a process ensures high productivity with good sustainability of the loops.
Wide belt loops are made on the lining. The lining already cut out the top of the loop at twice the width of the edging from the lateral sides. Width of edging depending on the thickness of tissue equal to 0,1 - 0,25 see the belt loops of thick tissue grind lining from the side seam with a width of 0.5 cm, then turn on the front side, straighten seams and priorivet (Fig. 21, W). In the products of the delicate tissues of the side sections of the belt loops, and lining to buckle towards the inside and scribbled with the formation of the edging of the fabric top, positioning the top edge of the lining (Fig. 21, h).
Processing pull-tabs, Pat, valves
Tabs, PATA and valves can be different sizes and shapes. Depending on the model they are made on the lining of the main or more lining fabric and piece of the main fabric.
To stabilize the parts they are made with strips of calico, calico, nonwoven fabric with an adhesive coating or without it.
Adhesive strip connects with the main parts of iron or press, positioning them so that they do not fall into seams, grinding of the edges. When applying nechaevym gasket parts grind together with spacers.
With thread connection parts will be turned on a sanding machine or on machines-semi-automatic.
Processing sanding machine main part and the lining folded to face inside, combining slices and grind in the lining seam width 0.4 - 0.5 cm For edging curved sections of grind with the landing of the main part. The size of the landing depends on the size and shape of the part and the thickness and other properties of the material. After grinding the excess fabric in the corners is cut, leaving a seam allowance width of 0.2 - 0.3 see Details turn out, straighten the edges, forming the rim (Fig. 22, a), and spawn. Then the parts priorivet from the lining.For better straightening the edges and give shape to their priotity can iron or press, previously putting on special templates.
If style is provided the finishing stitching on the edges, it is performed on the front side of the silk thread.
Processing machines-semi-automatic edge detail at the top and the lining to buckle, and then scribbled (see Fig. 22, b).
If you want to give the valve extra stability, they are treated with the use of strips of napped fabrics coated adhesive powder coating. The strip is applied to the valve or the lining of the valve (in the products of thin fabrics) and stick an iron or press. Valve gasket cut out the patterns on the valve.
Processing of the leaf
The leaves on the lining treated the same way as the valves.
Leaves cap (unlined) process depending on the method of fixing them all.
If the ends of the leaf pritachivajut to the shelf, then from the underside of the leaves mark the crest line and on the lower part of the leaves at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the line marking is applied the gasket. An adhesive strip connects on the press or iron; if the gasket is not glue, its scribbled on the inner side at a distance of 0.5 - 0.6 cm from the cut edge (Fig, 23). Paper to bend in conformity with the inflection on timetoknow car and then priorivet on the press.
To secure the leaf width, performing a line on the sanding machine at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cut edge (Fig. 23, b).
From the inside out perform counting the length and sometimes the width of the leaves.
In accordance with the model on the edge of the leaflets may be made of finishing line.
If the model ends the leaves scribbled on a shelf, then after fixing the strip to the leaf bend right sides inside, and sew the ends together with the gasket seam with the width of 0.5 cm Allowances of seams in the corners cut out, the leaves turn, the ends of spawn, after which the leaf priorivet (Fig. 23).
For products made of thick, dense tissue adhesive from the inside out mark the length of the leaves. The ends of the lower part of the leaves is cut (Fig. 23, g). Top tips of the leaves iron, putting them under the lower part of the leaves. If the line is performed not at the edges, and at a distance from them at 0.5 cm or more, from the inside at the ends of the paving adhesive film (Fig. 23, d).
For the treatment of the leaves with sharp corners her grind on top to cut the lining seam width 0.5 - 0.6 cm Then the leaf bend forming edge with a width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from a base material, and grind the ends (Fig. 23, e).
The seam in the corners are cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, the leaves turn out, straighten corners and edges to form the edge of the material leaves a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and perform the finishing line on the model. Leaves priorivet from the inside and on the front side on the press or iron.
Processing belts
Belt made from the main fabric, unlined or lined, without a gasket or with the gasket. If the belt with the strip, its cut from brushed fabric with an adhesive coating on the belt size (in articles made of thick fabrics) or size details (for products made of thin fabrics) and is glued from the inside parts iron or press. Depending on the model, the belt can be fastened to hooks and loops, buttons and loops or a buckle.
The processing belt includes the treatment of joints, ends and clasp.
Treatment of the longitudinal seams and the ends of the belt. The processing performed as follows. The products thick fabric, the side sections of the belt sew on sanding machine, seam width 0.7 cm Belt straighten, having a longitudinal seam in the middle, and one end of the grind on the planned line (Fig. 24). The seam allowance at the top of the Cape cut off, leaving 0,2 - 0,3 cm Seam rautureau, belt turn the special tool, spawn and priorivet on the press.
The longitudinal seam can sew overcasting on the machine or on a machine with zig-zag stitching. In this case, first grind the end of the belt, then turn the corner and grind the longitudinal seam (Fig. 24, b). The use of these machines reduces the consumption of tissue and improves the quality (the seam is much thinner). After the buttonhole and hot-press zone is scribbled.
In products from fine fabrics grinding and end grinding of longitudinal seam is performed simultaneously (Fig. 24).
For products made of cotton fabrics first buckle end of the belt towards the inside of 1.0 - 1.5 cm, then the side sections superimposed one upon the other, bending the upper cut by 0.7 cm and scribbled in the middle at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge. At the same time scribbled bent end of the belt (Fig. 24, g).
Processing belt buckles. During the processing of the clasp to the loops and buttons slices the raw end of the belt to buckle inside 0.7 - 1.0 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge or hand-filed slanted stitches. On the ends mark the location of buttons and loops. Overcast the loop and sew a button on a special machine.
When handling fasteners and hook-and-loop treated belt is pierced in the middle of its width from the inside at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the corner. The hook is inserted into the hole and sew hand stitches for 4 - 5 stitches in each ear and near the bend (Fig. 24, d). At the other end of the belt in accordance with the size of the hook made loop of thread.
When processing clasp buckle buckle wear on the end of the belt, bend the end into 4 - 5 cm and pritachivajut to the belt on the machine (sanding or zigzag stitch) sew or hand slanted stitches (Fig. 24, e). The bent sections of the end or cut from the seam (thick tissues), or bends with the binder.
Processing loops for a belt. When processing belts with belt loops, replacing the buckle (Fig. 24, g), the end of the belt is bent in the form of a loop (Fig. 24, h) and fix two lines: the first - on sanding machine (Fig. 24), the second - on the machine with a zigzag stitch (Fig. 24, to).
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