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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Processing patch pockets

Patch pockets in outerwear products have wide application and are very diverse in form, size, type of finishing, methods of treatment and compounds with shelves of products. The whole process of processing of such pockets can be divided into two stages: the first - processing themselves the pockets, the second connection of the pockets with the shelves.

Pocketing 

 the Markup and adjustment of pockets. The location of the patch pockets on the shelves partitioned by the auxiliary patterns three lines: one to the top position, two - position side.
If the pocket is connected to the shelf bridging the seam, on the shelf, mark the position of the pocket mold. For proper connection additionally, the angles applied to the control line, which combine the corresponding control notch on the pockets when the pockets participarii to the shelves. 
In products from fabric with a pattern of bands or cells pockets cut out with an allowance to fit the picture. In these cases, the pockets are put on the shelves, combining the pattern on the pockets with a pattern on the shelves, then pockets clarify on the auxiliary pattern and cut, leaving a seam allowance on the edges.
 Treatment the top edges of the pockets. In appearance, the upper edge of the pockets can be with or without finishing trim in the form of the leaf - cutting or tselnokrajnimi together with pockets with the opening; the shape-the edges may be straight or curved.
 The top edge of the pockets without leaf process, paving the adhesive or linen edge. The adhesive edge is adhered with an iron, linen pritachivajut on the outer edge, positioning it on the intended line of bending the top edge of the pocket in the direction of allowance for ACC. 
In pockets with straight the top edges (Fig. 36, a) the allowance for ACC iron towards the back parts and sew the pockets on the blindstitch machine with ACC 0.5 - 0.7, see the products from cotton fabrics most often zastrugivajut press the edges on the sanding machine at the same time with the ACC cut edges by 0.7 cm 
Pockets with curved edges (Fig. 36, b) treated with obrazkami, cut to shape the top edge of the pocket. At the same time pritachivajut edge, slightly pulling it. Allowances of seams netscout, are bent towards the inside of the pockets and priorivet, forming, edge material of the pockets by the width 0,2 - 0,3 cm Edging edge of obcutek to sew the pockets as described above. The top edge of the pockets scribbled the finishing line, if available on the model. 
 Pockets neotrezannymi leaves mark from the inside the two lines. One line that defines the width of the seam allowance on the piece of paper, bend the pocket inside out and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.5 cm from the bend (Fig. 36). Edge laid on the second line defining the line of bending of the upper edge of the pocket. The leaves bend towards the inside of the pocket, priorivet edged bends cut into 0.5 - 0.7 cm and sew to the pocket hand or machine blindstitch. 
 Pockets with a cutting straight leaves process, paving edge on the line pattern on the leaves (Fig. 36, g). The leaves pritachivajut to the pocket seam 0.5 - 1.0 cm depending on the properties of the fabric, the seams rautureau, and then iron towards the leaf. The leaves bend and priorivet, edging edge sew to the pocket with the hem of slices manually or on a special machine. In the pockets with the lining to the cut edges of the leaf pritachivajut lining. 
 In the pockets cutting curly leaves the first leaves iron on bottom edges on a special template, and then put on the top edge of the pockets and scribbled in accordance with the style. 
In the products of thin, often cotton, fabrics leaves pritachivajut to the upper sections of the pockets, bend on the front side with the formation of the edge of the material leaves. Edging edge bends a piece of paper and scribbled. 
 Machining the side and lower edges of the pockets. Treatment depends on the method of connection of the pockets with the shelves and from a style of pocket. If the pockets is combined with shelves bridging the seam, then the side and bottom edges are not treated. If the pockets is combined with shelves overhead seam, side and bottom edges zametyvayut manual stitches or by a special machine and priorivet or folded and pressed flanging press (talisprism). 
When the folding edges talisprism pocket is placed on the base of the press face down. On the pocket impose an internal template. External templates fullpress folded and pressed the edge of the pocket. This treatment bending is produced by a small width (Fig. 37, a). 
If on the model the edge of the pockets should be unfastened and the width of the turning-in of more than 1.0 cm, the front of the cover your bottom edge in the corners grind off the seam width of 0.5 cm and seams rautureau. Corners turn, the edges zametyvayut and priorivet, straightening the bend in the lines on the front side of the pockets (Fig. 37, b).
If a patch pocket on the lining, the processing of the side and bottom edges of the pocket perform their obtachivaya on three sides and leaving the side nepatazane hole. Through the turn pocket on the front side, the edges straightened, and the hole sewn blind stitch manual stitches (Fig. 37). 
 Processing patch pockets with Welt entry. Slits patch pockets are treated the same, and Welt pockets with valves or without valves. The ends of the treated sections fasten to the underside of three lines. To the lower edges of obcutek pritachivajut the lining of the pockets. The lower edge of the slit pockets scribbled. The top edge of the pockets zametyvayut towards the inside and iron. 

The connection of the pockets with shelves 

Before connecting patch pockets with shelves in products on the lining from the inside of the shelves in the plots the location of the ends of the pocket pieces are laid with glue or Nechaeva cushioning tissue.
 The connection of the pockets with shelves bridging the seam. If the pocket on the lining, then before connecting the shelf pritachivajut lining. For this purpose it is placed on the shelf face down, top edge of lining folded up to 1.0 cm and scribbled on three sides by seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm, securing the ends with double reverse stitching. 
Pocket placed on the shelf with the wrong side up, aligning the top edge and side cut to the proper lines on the shelf and pritachivajut seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, aligning the reference notch in the corners of the pockets with the control lines on the shelves (Fig. 38, a).
The top edge of the lining connect with pockets hand stitches blind stitch with a length of 0,2 - 0,3 cm Top edge sew pockets to the shelves on both sides of the segment with a length of 0.5 - 1.0 see also manual of concealed stitches. Pockets scribbled, if required by the model. 
 The connection of the pockets with the shelves overlay and seam sanding machine. If the pocket lining, it is placed on the shelf along the lines of markup and scribbled at the edges of one or two lines. The ends of sutures fixed double reverse stitching. The top edge of the pockets sewn on to the shelves of hand stitches with a length of 0.3 cm across the width of the bent edges. In the pockets leaves the ends of the pockets fixed lines made parallel to the main line at a distance of 0.2 cm from her across the width of the leaves.
If the pocket lining, then the lining pritachivajut to a trimming the bent edge of the pocket or leaves. Then the lining pritachivajut to the shelves, placing it on the layout lines on the shelves. The width of the seam primaqiune 0,7 - 1,0 cm with nastraivanii without bending sections of the lining. Sections of the lining can bend in the direction of the inside lining of 0.7 - 1.0 cm, then the width of the seam felling can be 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the bent edges. The pockets are put on the shelves and scribbled as well as pockets unlined. 
 The connection of the pockets with the shelves overlay seam adhesive method. On the press side and bottom side pockets are laid on a special machine adhesive tape width 0.3 - 0.4 cm at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edges. The pockets are put on the shelves and are connected by pressing, and then perform a finishing line. 
Pockets without finishing the stitching on the lining connected with the shelves glued in the following way. First pritachivajut the lining of the pocket (Fig, 38, b), securing the ends of the top edges of the three or four reverse stitches, then connect the pocket with the shelf compression (Fig. 38). 
 Ironing pockets. Pockets priorivet from the inside out, and then from the front side through the spacer on the press with a special pad or by hand with an iron.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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