The process of processing the side edges of the upper garment consists of 20 - 30 transactions, and is 15 - 20 % of the total processing time of the product.
To a large extent on the quality of the processing side of the edges depends on the appearance of the product.
The whole process of processing boards can be divided into three groups of works. 1 - processing podborov, 2 - treatment side strip, 3 - processing of side edges of the product.
In different types of products and depending on the style of podborta may vary in shape and size. To conserve fabric podborta often cut out of a compound with one or two attachments that are pritachivajut to podborta bridging seam width 0.7 cm Seams primaqiune rautureau iron or press, at the same time protiva whole podbot. Operations can be performed on a special machine at the same time grinding off and ratatuia seams.
On the right podbot at a distance of 12 cm from the bottom of the product scribbled trademark label, performing the stitching on the top edge of the label, the frequency of lines 3 to 3.5 stitches per 1 cm
depending on the type of product, style, as well as the type and properties of the tissue from which it manufactures the product in the treatment of podborov possible number of features.
If the top fabric has a pattern (stripes or squares), and edges of the boards curved, podborta storevault internal sections to align the figure with the shape of the lapel. After Ironing podborta clarify the patterns and cut the excess at the inner ends and the ends of the seams.
The products thick fabric (coat male autumn and winter, womens winter) coat of expensive fabrics lined up to the bottom of the product or to the waist or without lining internal sections of podborov edging strip of lining fabric or tape. Jackets without lining internal sections of podborov zastrugivajut seam itagiba the open cut.
To connect podborov with side strip adhesive means on the inner sections of from the inside is applied to the adhesive film on a special machine at a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices.
Processing of different loops on podborta performed as follows.
Loop on the lapel of podborta. These loops are intended for decoration or clasp, or both at the same time. Mark the loop parallel to the ledge of the lapel at a distance of 3 - 4 cm from the ledge and 2 - 2.5 cm from the edge of the lapel. Depending on the model of the loop can be treated without eye with eye. The processing of such loops described above (see here).
The hinges on podborta for internal (hidden) clasp. Feature processing loops for internal clasp consists of the following. Loop overcast on a special machine on the markup on podborta. Preliminary for protection the edges of the loops from stretching in the locations of the loops from the wrong side of podborta enclose a piece of cotton cloth (calico, calico) measuring 3 X 5 cm Strip is placed so that the warp threads on them coincided with the grub loop (Fig. 44, a). Below in the finished product through the cutting loop was not visible side of the strip, the strip loop is applied a piece of lining fabric.The gasket and grind off the lining of all four sides of a seam width of 0.5 cm (Fig. 44, b). When the buttonhole loop on top of the strip. overlay a piece of lining fabric. In this case it cut out elongated (Fig. 44,). After serging loops, striped lining bend in half and sew together with a lining on three sides (Fig. 44, g).
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