In the manufacture of clothing are different stitches and stitch. 

 The stitch is called that is repeated on fabric a complete cycle of the weave threads. The number repeated on the fabric stitches forms a line. 

The stitches distinguish hand and machine. 

Hand stitches are divided into simple and complex. Consider the variety of hand stitches. 

Simple stitches 

To plain stitches are a running, overlock, quilting, blindstitch, copying, bridging stitches.

A running stitches (Fig. 1) widely used in the production of clothing for temporary bonding of parts (before utjuzhkoj, before performing continuous lines) and for the formation of assemblies in the processing of linen goods, dresses and women's blouses. In addition, using a running stitch perform various tasks: smachivanie side or shoulder cuts products, namachivaya shelves on the side strips etc. 

the Length of a running stitch (see) in the line depends on the type of fabric and purpose of the lines:

A running stitches in a line can be straight or oblique. 

When processing of cotton and woolen fabrics stitches perform a running thread number 40 or yarn of high numbers; in the processing of products from silk and fine cotton fabrics - thread No. 60 - 80. 

 Whipstitching (Fig. 1, b, C) run around the edge of the cut parts to prevent the fabric edges from fraying threads in the seams not covered by the lining of the product. The length of the stitches in the line of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, depending on tissue density. Width of the fabric when running overlock stitch Overlock stitches 0.5 cm perform thread no. 40 - 80. In the mass production of clothing in specialized ateliers whipstitching is performed on special machines 51-A CL. CL. 208 PMZ and RLM. 

 Quilting stitches (Fig. 1, g) used for the permanent bonding of the two parts to seal them, impart elasticity and certain provisions of part (stitch lapels, lower collar). When running quilting stitches the upper fabric is pierced through, and grab the lower half of its thickness. As a result, the front side part of the stitches are not visible. The length of the stitches in the line of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, the distance between lines of 0.4 - 0.5 cm, depending on tissue thickness and destination lines. Quilting stitches performs thread No. 60 - 80 the color of the primary fabric of a product.

With mass production of clothing in specialized ateliers quilting stitches performed on a special machine CM-2, 761 CL. firm Pannonia Hungary etc.

 blind stitch stitches there are: oblique, hidden and Phillips. 

 Slanting stitches (Fig. 1, d) used in the manufacture of clothing of fabrics easypayday to attach the bent edge to the primary (suturing the bottom of the pants, edge of collar, etc.). When performing the slant blind stitch stitches the needle is injected into the tissue around the cut edges bent, grab the half thickness of the main fabric of the product and withdrawal of the needle bent edge at a distance of 0.2 - 0.4 cm from the edge. 

 Hidden stitches (Fig. 1, e) are used in the processing of products from silk and fine woolen fabrics for fastening the bent edges of the parts to the main fabric products (suturing of bottom of sleeves in dresses, etc.). Hidden stitches by design almost the same as slant blind stitch stitches; they differ only in the use of and the peculiar arrangement of the parts in the performance line, i.e. a secret place performed by the position bent edge to working or from working. 

 Cross stitches (Fig. 1, W) are used in the processing of clothing from thick, legkopolirujushchiesja tissue to attach the bent edges of the parts with the open cut to the main fabric products (suturing of the collar along ends and fly away, lining in the womens coat, etc.).

Cross stitches are laid from left to right, and the needle punctures performed from right to left, alternating them on the bent edge and the main fabric. The upper and lower pinholes must be placed one against the other. From the front detail stitching should be inconspicuous, so when you execute the stitches you need to capture half the thickness of the main fabric. The length of the stitch About 5 - 0,7 see a Line of cross stitches blind stitch performed by silk or cotton threads. 

 Copy the stitches (the snare; Fig. 1, z) represents a running loose stitches. The line with copy stitches are laid along pre-planned lines, which must accurately translate from one part to another. After this stitching detail, folded face inward, pushing, pulling stitches. Line (stitches) in the middle between the parts is cut, the remaining fabric at the ends of the thread (snares) provide the outline of the translated lines. The frequency of stitches 4 to 5 on a 5 cm line length loose stitches 0,5 - 0,7 see

In the mass production of clothes copying the stitches are not used. They are replaced by chalk lines or nadechka, which is applied by the auxiliary patterns. In specialized ateliers snare doing on the machine PMZ class 622 or specially adapted for this purpose universal sewing machine. 

 Bridging stitches (Fig. 1, and) is used for binding parts or for topstitching of high stretchability. In appearance the line of bridging stitches on the front side resembles machine stitching. In the formation of bridging stitch thread passing through the thickness of the fabric, then comes back and passes through the fabric at the point of the previous puncture. The length of the stitches of the lower side of the line twice the length of the stitches of the front side. This is stitch from the other, and the strength of the stitching to stretch and nerazmokaemogo at break of the thread.

A variation of the bridging stitches are marking and uspeshnye (finishing) stitches. 

 Marking stitches (Fig. 1, K) used to attach the lining of the product to the seams of the armholes and neckline. When the marking stitch needle after the first puncture re-injected into the fabric with a retreat back to the half stitch etc stitch 1.0 - 1.5 cm 

In the mass production of clothing and in large specialized ateliers marking stitches is performed on special machines 65 CL. PMZ. 

 Uspeshnye stitches (Fig. 1, l) is used for zakrepleniya edge details the resulting forms (Kant, frames) or to seal tissue at the edge of the workpiece. When you run uspeshnogo stitch needle thread introduced into the fabric with a slight tilt forward, capturing half the thickness of the lower fabric, the needle is directed upward and output. Then again injected into the tissue at a distance of 0.5 - 1.0 mm behind the exit needle and thread to the upper fabric and Thus, the intertwining of threads in the formation of stitches takes place within the fastened tissues, resulting in tissue are tightly karugu.

In the manufacture of outerwear, woolen fabrics uspeshnye ways of doing silk thread No. 33, 65, 75 with short thin needles. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.4 cm 

Complex stitches 

Complex stitches are formed by a special weave of threads, which, lying in different directions, creating a pattern on the edge of the loop - buttonhole stitch or tack in the end of pleats, pockets, loops. 

 Buttonhole stitch (Fig. 1, m) operates as follows: the needle thread introduced into the fabric at a distance of 0.3 cm from the edge, then thread from the eye of a needle throws to the end of the needle from left to right and the resulting loop is evenly tightened. Stitches are placed at the same distance from one another so that they completely cover the tissue sections, forming the hinge pattern on the front side.

In the processing of outerwear looped stitches are twisted threads of natural silk (crewel) by using frame (postilki) for greater strength of the edges of the loop. When processing loops on the items of linen and dress fabrics used cotton thread No. 40 - or 80 silk No. 65, 75. The frequency of looped stitches depends on the purpose and type of the processing loop. When the eyelet loops for fastening outerwear frequency stitches 6 - 10 1 cm lines (loops with eye).

In mass production hinges on the special clothes, overcast stitch machines (PM-1, 204 CL. PMZ, 62761-ZR of the company Minerva Czechoslovakia, etc.). 

 Tacking distinguish between direct and triangular. 

 Straight bar tack perform in areas of the product, which the socks are subjected to the highest voltage (the ends of the pockets, loops, etc.). Length of tie depending on the destination is 0.5 - 1.5 cm, Straight clips are hand and machine. In the mass production of clothes in factories and specialized ateliers used machine tack length of 0.3 - 0.4 and 0.5 - 0.7 cm, which perform bartacking machines (CL. 73 PMZ, PMZ CL. 220). 

 Triangular bar tack (flies) have the form of an equilateral triangle; they are used for fastening and decoration of the ends of the folds, reliefs and perform silk threads under the fabric colour of the product.