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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

The connection of the collar with the product

The collar is connected to the product, as a rule, in finished form, after Assembly of the collar and the processing of side edges of the product. In products with a collar, cut with podborany, the lower collar stachivaya in the neck to the grinding of the sides. In this case, the sides and the collar is treated at the same time. 

Connect the collar with the neck of the product bridging seam sanding machine or patch seam with a machine zigzag stitching. 

 Connection bridging the seam. Before connecting the product to specify the size of collar on the rack, for which it is cut, leaving a seam allowance at the fold in the middle of collar width of 0.5 - 1.0 cm and reducing the seam allowance to the ends. On podborta and collar cross chalk lines marked line grinding line Raskatov. Podborta cut, leaving a seam allowance equal to 0,8 - 1 see

Collar and podbora grind on rascal together with side strip or not, and then stachivaya lower collar, aligning the ends with the ends of the neck and control the notch on them. Stachivaya at the lower collar seam 1 cm wide with a rise of 0.4 - 0.5 cm above shoulder seams, with landing evenly on both sides of the seams. Fit is achieved the correct position of the lower collar about the lateral portions of the neck.

Seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar, Raskatov seams and shoulder seams rautureau press or hand-iron on the special pad, satwiwa fit.

If the side strip is not connected with the grinding of the shoulder sections and the setting of the lower collar into the neckline, then sew it on the neckline shelves manual stitches or sanding machine to the weld Nispero collar and shoulder seams. 

Jackets with the processing of the departure of the collar patch seam after reputazione seams Raskatov the ends of the collar bends and scribbled on a machine with zig-zag stitching. In other products, where the tips of the collar were not fixed, they are attached to the lower collar hand stitches after fixing seams Raskatov.

Then the collar primetyvajut on a special machine or hand straight stitches to the bottom of the collar parallel to the seams Raskatov at a distance of 0.2 cm and at the crest line of the rack, providing allowance for the bend; then slices the sutures connect direct manual-stitch length 1 - 1.5 cm or lay the adhesive film. If the length of the seams Raskatov less than 6 cm, they are not fixed. 

 Connection patch seam. The thickness of the weld overlay less than bridging, so the connection of the collar with the device neck patch seam reduces stiffness of the neck in the finished product.

On the lower collar mark the control line. On podborta marked line Raskatov, and the neckline shelves and back from the front - line overlaying the lower collar. To increase the stability of the seam, from the inside of the product at neckline backless pritachivajut striped cotton or linen fabric width 2 - 3 cm, cut to shape neckline.

After the preparatory operations, the collar on rascal connect with podborany bridging the seam width 1.0 cm. Seams Raskatov rautureau; the lower collar is placed on the cut of the neck line markings and scribbled first on a sanding machine and then on a machine with zigzag stitching along with the side strip. Further processing of the collar is the same as when connecting the bridging seam. 

 Connection fur collars with the product. Fur collars connected to the device neck in the same way as the collars of the main fabric.

Seams Raskatov manually sew to side strip. For proper placement of the collar in the finished product before sewing seams Raskatov collar primetyvajut on a special machine or by hand parallel to the seams Raskatov at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from them and bend stand with the formation of a landing the width of the fold of the collar. 

Nezastroennoe the ends of the collar are sewn to the lower collar hand slanted stitches.

To fix the fur collar, sew it to the bottom collar manual uspeshnymi stitches. Line perform from the bottom of the collar parallel to the seam at a distance of 10 - 12 cm from the seam. In the presence of tucks at the collar and the bottom collar holding it together at the seams of the Darts. 

 Connection collars, tselnokrajnie with tops podborov. In models of products in which the collar is cut together with the upper parts of podborov, processing of side edges, ends and fly collar combine.

Processed stachivaya lower collar into the neck of a product to its connection with the collar after stitching the edges along the edges of the boards. 

Part of the grind off collar and pritachivajut to the lower parts of podborov, seams rautureau. Namachivaya, grinding the edges and the subsequent processing are the same as in the processing side edges and collar, cut out the individual parts.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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