TECHNICAL specifications FOR the processing of the DRESS DETAILS

In machining dresses choose cotton and silk thread in the color of the fabric. Buttons with holes sew cotton or silk threads (depending on type of fabric) in the color buttons (if the technical conditions not provided for another color thread). The finishing details attach hand stitches of thread in the color of the finish or the underlying tissue. 

Depending on the kind of processed tissue and performed work pick up needle, thread and frequency of stitches per 1 cm line according to GOST 12807 - 67.

The inner ends of all lines is fixed by sewing on sanding machines with double stitching on the seam length of 0.7 - 1 cm, when sewing on special machines - one line for the length of the seam of 1.5 - 2.0 cm 

the ends of the decorative stitches of silk thread is fixed, dragging the ends of the thread on the wrong side and tying them with a knot, or udewa ends in the needle and performing 3 to 4 hand quilting. 

The ends of decorative stitches of cotton thread reinforce the back stitching on the seam length of 0.5 - 1.0 see

In-process wet-heat treatment of the dresses produced by irons weighing 2 - 4 kg and the final (finishing) on steam-air dummies. 

When you perform the wet-heat treatment as proteinlike used cotton fabric, and products made of fabrics with chemical fiber gauze and a soft cloth like a joke. 

TREATMENT OF SLICES PARTS. Making DARTS on 

 a cut. All the sections of the connecting seams of the dress (side, shoulder, armholes, sleeves, etc.) overcast to prevent fraying of the yarns during wear of the product. Slices overcast on a special machine before or after the connection details of the dress depending on how to handle seams. If the seams rautureau, cut parts to overcast stitching of the seams; if iron, then overcast them together with flatlock seams excluding seams vrachevanie sleeves and joining bodice to the skirt.

In the products of fine wool and silk fabrics, where after the annexation of parts welds rautureau allowed to zastrochit slices on a sanding machine or machine zigzag. This is done after grinding of the seams from the inside parts, turning slices 0.5 cm (Fig. 86), positioning the line at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold. 

Products made of velvet, malosemeika natural silk fabrics (crepe de Chine) is allowed to handle the cut parts with zigzag cutouts. The notch depth of 0,3 - 0,4 cm (Fig. 87).

In the products of fine cotton and silk fabrics (in the absence of overlock machine) allowed the connection of separate parts of a double seam. 

 Making Darts. Tuck in dresses are usually treated as continuous. By sewing dresses made of fine silk fabrics is recommended before grinding to smatyvay tuck straight stitches with a length of 1.0 - 1.5 cm from the end of the Darts. Sour cream tucks sew on the right shelf (cut parts) to its end, and on the left shelf from the tuck end to the slicer, placing the line, stepping back from the line of smachivaniya 0.2 - 0.3 cm inside tuck. At the end of the Darts leave the ends of the thread length of 5 - 6 cm and tie them with a double knot.

In making the dresses, of cotton cloths, the ends of the Darts on the back fix the machine stitching. Thread smachivaniya tucks and remove them after stitching.

Tuck into a unilateral pseudogene folds, grind along the planned lines, starting a line across the allowance for the fold (Fig. 88). Tuck, passing in counter pseudogene folds, grind, from the transverse lines, securing a place in the ends of the Darts. After piecing together the Darts are subjected to wet-heat treatment.

Dresses of wool fabric tuck rautureau, satwiwa slack fabric at the ends. To do this, tuck laid out so that their average line was located at the seams of their deleting. 

In dresses of silk and cotton fabrics, tuck iron in the following direction: tuck, located on the waist line towards the middle of the front and back of bodice; bust Darts in the side sections to the waist; Darts at the back from the shoulder cuts to line her mid.

Dresses of cotton fabrics be allowed instead of the wet-heat treatment tuck to straighten and fold the seams to the side, as required by the model. The seams of the Darts, the ends of which pass into pseudogene unilateral or inverted pleats, iron or rautureau only in areas of their deleting.