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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

The direction of the warp threads in the clothing items of the main fabric

The correct location of patterns in the layout relative to the direction the warp and weft of the fabric is important. Failure to comply with the direction of the warp threads in the parts are distorted, their shape, the lines and seams products, which complicates the connection of the parts when sewing. 

 In the main parts of outerwear warp yarn in the layout patterns should be as follows.

In backrest: 

one piece backrest is parallel to the line drawn in the middle, along the part (Fig. 141, a); 

in the backs, consisting of two parts, fabrics with stripes parallel to the secondary cut, from the waist to the hem (Fig. 141, b);

in the backrest, consisting of two parts on dyed fabrics - parallel to the line connecting the lower angle of the middle slice and its most projecting point in the blades (Fig. 141, V); 

in the back, consisting of three parts, parallel to the line drawn in the middle the backrest when folding all the parts together (Fig. 141, g); 

in the backside with a belt and cut at the waist line is parallel to lines drawn down the middle of parts (Fig. 141, d);

in left and right parts of the backrest mills (and the surrounding poluprilegayuschy on waist) of fabrics with pattern strips should be placed symmetrically, and the back yoke with the stripes on the yoke and lower part of the backrest should be the same across the entire width of the back or in the middle part (in the back with folds). 

In shelves: 

in solid shelves and shelves of two parts - parallel to the bottom of line polutanata located below the top side of the loop (Fig. 142);

in shelves with coquettes the direction of the warp threads on the yoke and shelves match; strips of fabric on the yoke and the shelves must be the same. 

In the upper halves of the sleeves: 

set-in sleeves - parallel to a line connecting the ends of the front bending (rolling) half sleeve (Fig. 143, a); 

the Raglan sleeves with a top tuck - in parallel lines running down the middle of the part (Fig. 143, b);

in Raglan sleeves with seam in the middle along the halves of the sleeve in parallel a line passing along the middle cut from the bottom hem to beginning of shoulder part the halves of the sleeve (Fig. 143,).

In the lower halves of sleeves: 

set-in sleeves - parallel to the line connecting the upper and lower corners of the front of the slice (Fig. 143, g); 

in whole sleeves down the middle component; 

in the sleeves that go into the yoke (in a coat of silk or of cotton textiles without liner), the warp threads are parallel the lines of the sections of the yoke. 

The tabs backs, waistband and belt loops: 

for processing end of the belt is parallel to the line drawn in the middle across the details and the side loops in the middle along the details;

in the tabs of the strips should coincide with the direction of the stripes on the back (to the folds or tucks). 

In valves, patch pockets, valances pockets without flaps, a paper and the valances of the upper Welt pocket of the warp threads coincide with the threads the basics of shelves in imposing the upper edges of these parts along the lines of markup on the shelves.

In obtachka Welt pockets, slips top and side patch pockets, Welt side pieces pockets the warp threads are parallel lines that are down the middle parts.

In the tabs, and the opening and fold-over cuffs sleeveless weft thread coincide with the weft threads of the upper halves of the sleeves; banded cuffs warp feature parallel to the line passing down the middle of the part. 

In the upper collar: 

threads of weft are parallel to the straight line connecting the ends of the departure of the collar (Fig. 144, a); 

in the collar of the segments of the bar (in a coat of silk and cotton fabrics without lining) the warp threads in the racks coincide with the warp threadscollar. 

In the lower collar:

in products without zipper up to the top (with a collar, like a jacket) the warp threads are parallel to the slice rascepa (Fig. 144, b); 

in products with zipper top warp or weft run parallel to the lower ends of the collar; 

in products unlined warp or weft coincide with the warp threads of the upper collar. 

In podborta: 

the warp threads are parallel to the outer cut of the lapels (Fig, 144);

in products that have a significant bulge in the outer edges of the lapels (more than 1 cm), the warp threads are parallel to the outer edges of podborov, located below the waist.

For individual models female coats and suits may different arrangement of warp threads in detail to use the patterned fabric as a decoration. In these cases some parts have deviations from the normal arrangement the warp threads are 45 - 90 minutes. 

 The details of the pants of the main fabric the warp threads are arranged as follows. 

In the front and rear halves of the warp threads are parallel to the line connecting the mid point of the width of the halves of the pants at the bottom and at the level of of the knee (Fig. 145, a).

The front and rear halves of the pants fabrics with medium and large pronounced pattern (in a cage) horizontal stripes in the side seams must match. 

In the flap back pockets and pocket for hours of warp coincide with the warp threads of the halves of trousers in imposing the upper edges of these parts along the lines of pockets marking. 

In the fly the warp threads are parallel to the external shear, and the slope - parallel internal cut (Fig. 145, b).

In zone of the warp threads arranged parallel to the upper slice; for pantsdyed fabrics allowed the shearing zone on the weft yarn (Fig. 145,). 

In obtachka and valances warp are parallel to the slices, pritachivajut to the halves of the pants in the tabs and the belt loops is parallel to the line drawn along the middle parts. Allowed cutting out the tabs on the weft thread. 

 In the front, rear panels and side skirts the warp threads are parallel to the line drawn along the middle parts (Fig. 146).



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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