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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Tools and accessories for manual work

Tools for manual works include hand-needle, thimble, scissors, measuring tape, fixtures - obrizne ring, peg, dummy patterns, tailor's chalk, etc. 

In the process of making clothing tools and accessories are chosen based on characteristics of the treated tissue and the type of work performed, which is important for the proper organization of work, high quality work and increase productivity. 

 Manual needledepending on the length and diameter divided by numbers from 1 (thinnest) to No. 12 (the thickest). Characteristics of needles is listed in table. 2. 

Table 2 characteristics of the needles by the numbers (GOST 1170 - 54)

 Needle number  Diameter, mm  Length, mm  Application for textile treatment
 1  0,6  35 Cotton and silk
 2  0,7  30 Light cotton, silk and wool
 3  0,7  40
 4  0,8  30 Medium thickness, light worsted, clothing, cotton, etc.
 5  0,8  40
 6  0,9  35
 7  0,9  45
 8  1,0  40 Coats group
 9  1,0  50
 10  1,2  50
 11  1,6  75 Heavy fabrics
 12  1,8  80


In the manufacture of outerwear, the most widely used needle No. 4 - 10. 

The needle should be sharp, elastic, unbreakable, well polished, no burrs in the eye, which causes weakening and breakages of thread. 

 A thimble is needed to push the needle into the fabric, wear it on the middle finger of the right hand. The thimbles are of two types: without bottom with bottom.

The thimble with the bottom (dull) used in the manufacture of dresses and lingerie. The thimble needs to have a sharp inlet for the stop needle.

Thimble without the bottom recommended to use in the manufacture of outerwear, as the thimble with the bottom causes sweating and rapid fatigue of your finger. Pick up a thimble on a finger, leaving open one-fourth of the nail. When you work the needle to push using the side of the thimble. 

 Scissors are used in various sizes and are distinguished by numbers from No. 1 (largest) to # 8 (smallest). 

Scissors different numbers are recommended for the following works:

 The shear number  Recommended types of work
 1 - 2 Cutting fabrics coats group (cloth, drape, etc.), onorevole work
 2 - 3 Cutting fabrics, suiting group (leotards, Cheviot, etc.), onorevole work
 4 Cutting cotton and silk fabrics
 4 - 5 Cutting small parts from different tissues
 5 - 6 Incisions in the processing of products
 7 - 8 Trim the ends of the thread

 
Scissors must be well honed, and the ends to fully close without sharp sound. Under the modern organization of labor in the garment factories scissors when cutting fabrics almost do not apply, because the process is mechanized. 

When the handling of clothing items requires a lot of physical effort at pruning (oskarovka) several layers of tissue, scissors replace onorevole machines (OM-1, OM-2, OM-Z), which facilitates work, increases productivity and production. 

 The tape is used for the measurements, shapes, measurement details and the width of the seams in checking the quality of the performance. 

 Obrizne ring is used for cutting threads, cut from the spool, and after the sewing. Ring with soldered Crescent-shaped plate worn on the index finger of the left hand. The use of the cutter ring instead of a scissors and helps to save time and increase the productivity of workers. 

 Peg applied to remove threads from the stitches, temporarily connecting the parts, align the corners, to pierce holes in the parts, etc. the Pegs can be made from hard wood (oak, maple, birch). However, the most practical and hygienic are the pegs of metal and plastic. 

 Dummy simulates a human figure and is used to verify the connection details in the manufacturing process of the product. Dummy validate the grinding side and shoulder sections, vrachevanie sleeveless armholes, bottom of collar to neck, etc. the final finish on a mannequin wearing the product and set the location of the buttons. When grading the finished product on a mannequin to check the correctness of planting articles in the figure.

The mannequin is made of cardboard and covered in a cotton fabric. The size of the dummy is determined as well as the size of a shape, i.e. a half size of the bust. On the mannequin the one size products check all Rostov (lengths). 

 Patterns (parts cut out of cardboard or heavy paper) according to their purpose are divided into patterns-the patterns, the basic (working) and auxiliary (utility). 

 Patterns - standards are used for the manufacture and verification of basic patterns. The main (working) patterns used for drawing the outline and control nasechek when cutting fabrics and checking the quality of the cut parts cut. Auxiliary (utility) patterns are used in sewing shops for namely on the clothing items locations of pockets, tucks, folds, etc.With a stable range of manufactured products support templates and patterns for cutting the parts on tape machines at the edges of the edging wire, special profile, thereby increasing the lifetime of the patterns in the production and achieving a more precise cutting of parts.

Under the unification process the individual items of clothing it is advisable to produce patterns of a more rigid material than cardboard, such as metal, plastic. The life of such patterns increases. 

In mass production of metal templates are used when performing operations wet-heat processing: bending the edges of the patch pockets, soutwick valves and trims in men's shirts, namely lines primaqiune valves etc. Templates are used in the processing nodes of clothes on the vehicles with the use of adhesive joints of parts.

Trace the patterns and drawing lines for various purposes (the location of pockets, folds, tucks, felling parts, etc.) apply chalk tile. Used in the production of specially prepared chalk in the form of flat plates in different colors. To produce a thin, crisp chalk lines chalk should be sharpened periodically so that the thickness of the line does not exceed 0.1 cm 

When performing manual work, you must comply with the following specifications. 

1. Lines on fabrics with synthetic fibers hold soap (baby egg).

2. Lines temporary assignment performing light-colored cotton thread or cotton twisted yarn of the respective rooms.

3. The length of stitches sewn by hand in the line selected depending on the type of tissue and purpose of the lines (see here). 

4. Needle size is selected in accordance with the thickness of the processed fabric and character of work performed. 

5. The end of the string to the temporary duty assignment 1 fixed - 2 reverse stitches. 

6. Lines temporary appointment is removed by means of a peg.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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