Processing of solid backs 

In the goods attached and semi-fitted silhouette backrest should fit at the waist. For this continuous backrest (one-piece) molded by stygiana or perform Darts. Sutivana often used in the processing of male products, tuck - in the processing of female products.
For stivania back bend in the middle along parts face inside, combining symmetrical sections with one another, and laid out on the table, forming a slack in the waist area. Slack sativum circular movement of iron from the side sections to bend back to full stivania planting and the formation of regular concave line (Fig. 26, a). Back storevault two sides formed in the middle of the bend iron in the unfolded state. Shaping the backrest can also be performed on the press with a special pillow.
If by design, in the upper edges of the backrest is not provided tuck, for the formation of slack to fit the convexity of the blades back staiway at the shoulder slices 1 - 1.5 cm and the armhole 0.8 - 1.0 cm. the Treatment of the back is performed on the press with the special pillows or hand-iron. 

Treatment backs of two or three parts

The processing of such backrest consists of a combination of component parts. When processing products of high quality woolen cloth with a pattern of bands or cells middle seam pre-smatyvay manual stitch length of 1.0 - 2.0 cm or fasten in several places with pins or small strips of tissue adhesive. After piecing together a running stitches, pins or strips are removed, the seam rautureau or rautureau and iron on the left half of the back.
Back of two pieces with a horizontal cut at the waist (Fig. 26, b) was first treated by the upper part: handle tucks, folds, and then backrest to grind and iron. 

Processing of the backside of the yoke with 

the Contents and the sequence of processing of the backside with the belt depend on the type of yoke and the method of its connection with the main part of the back. Yoke can be straight and curved (oval, with protruding external or internal corners). The connection of the yoke with the main parts of the backs perform bridging, lapped tongue or patch seams.
 Treatment with straight backs and an oval yoke bridging and nastronie seams. The yoke is folded with the main portion of the back face, combining slices, if model primatives bridging yoke seam (Fig. 26). If the model seam nastroni, the main part of the back sprinted by an amount which depends on the width of the finishing stitches on the yoke (Fig. 26, g). 
If the lower section of a yoke oval shape, previously it pritachivajut edge. Seam primaqiune coquette perform at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the inner edge of the edge, combining the control notch.
Bridging the weld width of 1.0 - 1.5 cm, nastroennogo from the yoke of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, with the back - according to the model. Bridging the seam folded in the direction of the yoke and priorivet if nastroje - scribbled, and then priorivet on the press (see Fig. 26, g). For products made of thick, elastic tissues before nastraivanie seam zametyvayut or iron. 
 Treatment with straight backs and an oval patch teases. The yoke is marked line bending on the auxiliary pattern, and on the back - line overlay yoke.
The lower edge of the yoke zametyvayut hand stitches or machine timetoknow and priorivet press or iron. If you have a special fullpress it iron the lower edge of the yoke without prior zamatyvala. Nastraivanie performed after namachivanija hand or machine stitches. For products made of cotton fabrics yoke scribbled without prior namachivanija. 
 Treatment backs with shaped yoke patch (Fig. 26, d, e). Treatment may be different depending on at what distance from the bent edge of the yoke perform a finishing line.
If the line is located at a distance of not more than 0.5 cm from the edge, the yoke handle and is connected with the main portion of the back as described above. Further operation in this case is the cutting of the allowance for ACC in the yoke with the inner corners.
If the line felling yoke located from the edge at a distance of more than 0.5 cm, the required machining angles. The inner corners of the yoke grind additional details of the main fabric (Fig. 26, W, z). The protruding corners of the yoke carve on the markup and grind off the seam width 0.5 cm (Fig. 26, and). The products from thick and easypayday tissues of the edges of the corners sew hand stitches, seam butt joint (Fig. 26). Corners turn, straighten and priorivet. 
In products from fine fabrics stock on the hem of the speakers in the corners lay in the crease. 

Processing of the backside of the slit (slit) 

In the manufacture of men's outerwear, and sometimes women's clothing is treated with slits at bottom hems. The cuts can be in integer parts (back of coat), or processed on-seam (middle seam of the back, side seams). For processing the edges of an incision, which is a continuation of the seam connecting the two parts, these parts are cut with allowances for processing.
 Processing of the backside of the slit in a coat with a lining to the bottom. The work is in the handling of the middle seam and the edges of the incision. Treatment begin with a marking of the breakline edges of the slots. The markup is performed by the auxiliary mold from the inside of the parts (Fig. 27, a). On the left half of the back put a line coincident with the line of the middle seam of the back, on the right line for bending the edges of the slots.
To increase the stability of the edges of the slot of the handle glue or Nechaeva strip of calico, or calico fabric. The lower part of the slots can be processed without a gasket. The strips have a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the lines, the lower ends call for ndsatcom on the line of bending of the lower edge of the back. Nechaevu the gasket connect with the back of the adhesive threads or film, and also on a special machine with a hidden stitch or sanding machine.In the first case, the adhesive film is applied: a strip in the upper part of the splines on the inner cut on one side, the other at a distance of 1.5 - 2.0 cm from the slices, in the bottom of the slots - internal cut.
To connect with glue string around the edge of the strip at a distance of 1.0 - 1.5 cm. execute line in which one line of adhesive. The fastening strip on the blindstitch machine is produced by performing one or two longitudinal lines. The gasket put aside the main part of the back. 
When nastraivanii on the sanding machine of the gasket and the edge of the stack from the allowance for ACC slots (Fig. 27, b).
The edges of the strips at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from marker lines are laid tension of the adhesive or nechaevu edge. Nechaevu edge scribbled on the outer edge of one line on the sanding machine (see Fig. 27,b), in products of the highest quality, in addition, on the inner edge of the blindstitch machine. Adhesive strip connects with the back on the press. In the products of thin tissue adhesive of the edge of paving.
The fit of the backrest to the edge sativum, pritoria region. Then sew the middle seam of the back, aligning the reference notch, and the products made from fabrics with a pattern, combining the pattern. Seam finish 1 cm below the upper edges of the allowance for processing. One side of the middle seam in the upper end of the seam allowance on the slot cut, whereupon the seam rautureau, the edges of the iron slots on line. The products thick fabric, the edges of the slots before utjuzhkoj zametyvayut manually or timetoknow car.
Middle seam of the back and the edges of the slots scribbled (Fig. 27, at the) finishing line in accordance with the model. The finish line going the distance 8 - 10 cm from the bottom. Line the slots on the right half of the back is performed on a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. 
At the end of the slots marked line of stitching for fastening the spline and the middle seam of the back support to the mold at an angle of 60' to the seam. The line clips have 1 cm below the top edges of the recess slots. The fitting is performed over the line by a double line (Fig. 27, d) sanding the car.
The adhesive connection of the parts, fit the edges of the slit and the bending can be performed simultaneously on the machine PSH-2. In this back half is placed on the lower platform of the machine wrong side up. The allowance of the slots imposes a pad, and then glue the edge (Fig. 27, d). A special mechanism is provided with the desired fit of the edges of the slots, after which templates produce the folding edges. To set and connect the parts they are pressed (Fig. 27, e). 
 Processing of the backside of the slit in the products lined to waist (below the waist line of 15 - 20 cm). A feature of the process is to okantovany sections of the allowances for processing of slit: in the left half of the backrest and lay the gasket edge, the right edge only. Bent cut edges also reinforce the adhesive film on the press or machine blindstitch. 

The cut of the back and shelves 

To protect the upper sections of the main parts from stretching during processing and consolidate constructive lines for the slices of the armhole shelves and back, at the shoulder sections of the shelves, cut the neck of the back, at the shoulder sections to the front of the Raglan sleeves, sleeveless tselnokrajnimi with shelves, lay the adhesive edge or cut to form edge strips of cotton fabric (calico, calico, calico), a nonwoven fabric with an adhesive coating or without it.
The width of the adhesive edge with a transverse direction of the warp threads is taken to equal 0.4 - 0.5 cm, trailing edge cut a width of 0.8 - 1.0 cm at an angle of 7 - 8 to the weft thread. Strips of fabric from calico without the adhesive cover cut up to a width of 2.5 cm, Podkayne the shape of the neck backless strip of fabric or nonwoven fabric with a width of 3 to 4 cm
The location and tension edges define the design model. The adhesive edge is placed at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cut edge of the linen scribbled on the outer edge, positioning it at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the cut edge of the part so that when the bonding edge caught in the seam. 
In products with a short lined or unlined open areas of the side and middle sections around strips of lining fabric or tape.
The products made from leskoalas tissues that are not pricechannel (unfastened) on the bottom of the lining, the side sections of the backrest and shelves overcast on a special machine (40 - 50 cm from the lower edge in products for adults and 25 - 30 cm in children products).