Top men's shirts depending on the purpose (for everyday wear and weekend) produce various styles of fabrics of different types.
Parts cut men's shirts shown in Fig. 115.
If sleeve shirts with extensions, the extension pritachivajut on smachiwausa-overlock machine.
Processing of fasteners
The shirts of artificial silk and wool fabrics easily crumbling the left side of the zipper handle with a strip of calico and madapolam. The gasket is applied to the left front side of the slit of the clasp and pritachivajut seam with the width of 0.5 cm, then folded towards the inside of the front of the shirt and scribbled at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm away from trimming the edges of the strip. The processed edge of the left side of a fastener bend towards the inside and iron (Fig. 116). When using two needle machine, with the fixture laying scribbled with bent 0.4 - 0.6 cm slices (Fig. 117).The right side of the incision closure process seam itagiba with a shut cut, forming a bar width of 2 - 4 cm When cutting the right side of the front of the shirt along the edge of the edge of the clasp bend inside out, forming a bar, and scribbled a seam width of 0.1 cm
The machining of pockets
In shirts are treated with patch pockets. In the manufacture of shirts from fabric in a cage it is recommended to carve out pockets in the oblique direction of the filaments (at an angle of 45' to the warp threads).
The top edge of the pockets treated with cap or with a stitched obrazkami, valves, leaves. Valve or piece of paper placed on the wrong side of the pocket pritachivajut and a seam width of 0.6 cm Seam straighten, unbend on the front side, forming the valve, or leaves Kant with a width of 0.1 cm Lower edge of the valve leaflets or pocket scribbled on one or two lines depending on the model. Facing the fold with a pocket inside out.
Treatment of the back
If the back has a yoke with pocketcas, consisting of two parts, first grind off part of podkonicky seam width 0.7 cm and Then the upper yoke, and the superimposed face on the front side of the backrest and lower the yoke on the wrong side of the back and scribbled a seam width of 0.1 cm, using a device for hemming of the edges. Podkonicky bent in the direction of the upper yoke and trimmed the excess fabric at the shoulder sections and neck (Fig. 118).
Treatment of the shoulder sections
In shirts with a belt at first to grind the shoulder sections of the lower yoke and the front of the chemise, then a seam in the back side, cover the top of the yoke and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge of the yoke, applying the device for hemming the edges.
In shirts without a yoke shoulder seams sew with the edge or without smachiwausa-overlock machine.
Treatment of the collar and connecting it with the neck of the shirt
Men's shirts are made with rigid, semi-rigid and soft collars depending on the type of fabrics. So, shirts of rayon, silk and cotton with polyester, nylon is treated with hard collars. The departure of the hard collar cut out with a transfer bead on the lower collar and the handle frame method without finishing the stitching and elastic plates, with a lining of two kinds: impregnated and coated. Details of gaskets in the departure of the collar are interconnected using a special press. The ends and back of the collar sew a seam width of 0.6 cm
The gasket is applied to the seam of the fly of the collar and scribbled, turn the collar on the front side, straighten. For the best connection strip with the departure of collar do the stitching on the fold strip. Slices of departure of the collar equalize through vrachevanie in the rack and lay the line at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the slices (Fig. 119). In shirts made of nylon lower section of strip in the stand top round stand collar and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge (Fig. 120).The departure of the collar stachivaya in the rack with the seam width of 0.6 cm, placed under the line the gasket and at the same time grind off the ends of the rack. Seam vrachevanie of departure at the stand collar and straighten priorivet.
Collar stachivaya in the neck of the shirts from the racks of the upper collar seam width of 0.6 cm, aligning the notch. The seam folded in the direction of the collar and scribbled from the racks of the lower collar. The shirts nylon collar stachivaya in the neck of the shirts from the racks of the lower collar without pads. The seam folded in the direction of the collar, close the bent edge of the top collar stand and scribbled on the reverse side of the shirt.
Handling of the sleeves and connect them with arm openings on shirts
Processing fasteners. In the men's shirts sleeves are made with Velcro loops and buttons. The buckle handle strap, which pritachivajut to the neck of one line on the sanding machine fixture for bending the slices. The end of the zipper in the upper part fasten to the underside of the sleeves.
In shirts made of nylon placket fasteners on the sleeves zastrugivajut seam itagiba the open cut for a width of 0.5 cm
Connection sleeveless arm openings. Stachivaya sleeves into open armholes from the inside of the shirt to smachiwausa-overlock machine.
The connection of the side sections of the shirt and lower sections of the sleeves. The side sections of the shirt and the lower sections of the sleeves sew the seam width of 0.8 cm on smachiwausa-overlock machine.
Treatment of cuff and connecting them with sleeves. Inside out cuff is applied, the gasket which should be longer than half of the cuff, 1.5 - 2.0 cm, and scribbled at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cut edge of the strip. Fold the cuff inside out, sew along the side sections with a seam width of 0.6 cm, turn and quitugua on the press.
Cuff gasket pritachivajut to the cuffs on smachiwausa-overlock machine, laying folds on the sleeves (ndsatcom) and bending the ends of the fastener 1.0 - 1.5 cm towards the inside of the sleeve.
Handle the bottom of the shirts
Hem of the shirts is treated with a seam itagiba with a shut cut. The width of the seam provides a model.
Final trim chemise
Loop outline mold with the front side parts and overcast on a special machine. Buttons scheduled in accordance with the loops and sew on a special machine. The shirt is cleaned from the ends of the thread from the front side and back side.
For wet-heat processing of garments, use the irons and press. Then the shirt fastens with buttons and put on schedulei car. After packing in plastic bag, shirts are completed, stacking in boxes of 10 pieces.
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