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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Treatment of closure and the upper edges of the pants

Depending on the type and construction of parts required for processing the upper edges of pants, work content, and the processing sequence are different. When processing the upper edges of the trousers with a stitched waistband and front closure initially produce parts fasteners: fly, otcasek, lining belt, etc.

 the Fly clasp is used for trousers. It processes the loop. If you dont cut compound, part of his grind and seam rautureau or rasstraivaet.

At the outer edge fly grind lining, folding parts, right sides inside. Turn the seam forming the edge of a fabric top, and fix its line at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. The inner and bottom edges of the fly along with the lining of the overcast on a special machine (Fig. 79, a). In the products of wool fabric high list groups these sections instead of serging edging of lining fabric (Fig. 79, b). 

After processing, the lateral and lower sides of the fly priorivet, then mark the loops that are overcast on a special machine. 

 Otcasek. Detail of the clasp on the trousers where stitch buttons, is otcasek. For greater strength sewing buttons made with the gasket. Internal cut strip grind lining seam width 0.4 - 0.5 cm Cut strip tightly envelop the lining and iron (Fig. 79). Then otcasek and lining together with the strip folded right sides inside and turned on the external cut. Details Odeska folded about a seam grinding, straighten the seam, forming an edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from a fabric of accosca, otcasek priorivet (Fig. 79, g).

Instead of baseplates and spacers for the treatment of accosca you can apply grosgrain - ribbons. In this case odbak grind external cut seam with the width 0,3 - 0,5 cm, then bend on the front side, forming the edge of the main fabric with a width of 0.2 cm and priorivet. 

 Lining belt. When processing the trousers with a detachable belt used lining light tones of cotton and silk fabrics. For stability the lining of the belt is treated with a lining of linen or calico. The lining consists of two halves.-The lower section of grind gasket lining the seam tightly envelop the lining and iron. 

For processing the top of the pants instead of pads use special ribbons with a width of 6 - 7 cm is cut in accordance with the width of the pants at the waist and pritachivajut to the upper sections of the pants. 

 Connection belt, codpiece and accosca with the basic details of the pants. In models of trousers with a detachable belt pritachivajut halves of the belt to the upper sections of the seam width 0.7 cm from the belt. Simultaneously between the belt and sides of the pants put on nadechka and pritachivajut loops (Fig. 80, a). Seams protecive belt rautureau or iron towards the top of the pants. The upper ends of belt loops pritachivajut to the upper cutoff zone, making them freer zone of 0.3 - 0.5 cm and avoiding bias. 

 Burlap side and back pockets and spread primetyvajut on the upper edge of the seam protecive belt timetoknow car.

To the right front half trousers pritachivajut otcasek from the upper sections to the notch of the fastener from accosca seam width 0.7 cm Seam primaqiune Odeska rautureau (Fig. 80, b). 

The left front half of the pants slice grind zipper-lined bow seam width 0.5 cm Seam iron, forming a Kant from the top width 0.3 - 0.4 cm Lining bow can be tselnokrajnie padded codpiece. 

 Fly connect with lining on the sanding machine. This lining is folded, the fly is placed so that it covers the lining of the dungeons, and it was located at a distance of 0.2 cm from the press line. The lower and upper ends of scribbled buttonhole seam width of 0.2 cm between the loops codpiece scribbled triple stitching (backstitching length of 0.7 - 1.0 cm). Otcasek pritachivajut to cut the right half of the Trouser seam width 0.7 cm, the seam rautureau. If, instead of loops and buttons provided by a metal hook and loop, they are attached with tape to the seam of protecive zone.

 When processing the upper edges of the trousers with braid, her pritachivajut on one needle or sanding machine. 

 On single-needle machine piping connected to upper edges of pants in the following order. Before pritachivajut tape to the upper sections sew middle seam of the rear halves of the pants on the site length 15 - 18 cm pritachivajut Braid initially to the inner edge of the fly; the fly bent on the front side of the pants, aligning the bend line sabturce the front half.

Then braid pritachivajut to the upper sections of the pants. The other end of the braid put on otcasek bent on the front side of the right front half, and pritachivajut together with the top edge accosca. 

 For needle machine tapes, connect using the switch that bends the upper edge of the belt. 

 When processing the upper edges of the fleece lining her first pritachivajut to the codpiece and to the lining accosca, and then each half lining pritachivajut to the upper sections of the Trouser waistband with hand strip (Fig. 80, b, C). At the same time stachivaya the top of the belt loops. Then grind off the upper part of the middle seam length 15 - 18 cm, at the same time grind off part of the lining of the belt in the middle. Seam grinding rautureau. Seams, grinding of the belt pull, the angles of the bow and accosca pruned, the lining of the turn and straighten.

The top of the pants spawn on a special machine, straightening edge with a width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm at the same time primetyvajut fly and otcasek.

To the band or the lining to stitch buttons on a button machine. To the left half of the lining pritachivajut strap (fastener for trousers) seam width 0.7 cm, bend it at the seam and scribbled on the front side line in the form of a square at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edges. Braid primetyvajut second line.

 Finishing line zone and accosca perform at a distance of 0.2 cm from seams of their primaqiune. Trousers with press seam protecive belt finishing line perform on the main parts, trousers with resuturing the seam on the belt. Trousers with cap belt and braid finishing line of the belt is performed on a distance of 4.0 cm from the edge along the guide bar. Seam Odeska prostrachivajut to the top. 

Finishing stitching on the fly doing from the front side on the planned line.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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