The processing and Assembly of the collar in the process of manufacturing of outerwear consists of three stages: treatment of the lower collar, handle collar and connecting it with the lower collar and the collar with the neck of the product. 

Treatment of the LOWER COLLARS 

, processing Methods lower collars are basically the same type. However, depending on the destination.products and style, material, as well as applied methods of attachment in the treatment of some features. 

The lower collars are made most often from the main fabric but can be made of nonwoven material such as "filez".

By construction, the lower collars can be cutting or neotrazimoi stand. 

 The treatment of the lower collar without pads with a detachable stand. In the collar with a detachable stands (coats, jackets, etc.) to the lower collar after piecing together parts pritachivajut rack seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm (Fig. 54, a). Seams rautureau press, pritoria the entire bottom of the collar. If the lower collar is made of tough elastic fabric, seams stitching rasstraivaet two lines at a distance of 0.2 cm from seam stitching or one with zigzag stitching.

After piecing together parts of the lower collar and resoluzione seams lower collars placed in boxes for 7 - 10 units, obmeleet mold and cut on the cutting machine. Seams primaqiune supers cut slices around the bottom of the collar on a length of 1 cm, leaving a seam allowance of 0.1 - 0.2 see 

 the Treatment of the lower collar with the strip method of string attachment. Grind off the bottom collar of the parts, by equalizing the slices on the rack, seam widths of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams rautureau, protiva the entire bottom of the collar. Operations can be combined, using the machine for grinding and simultaneously reputazione. The details of the strip sew a patch seam width 1.0 cm. of the Lower collar and the seal connect on sanding or special machine. 

 The connection of the lower collar with the strip for sanding machine used in the manufacture of demi-season and summer coat of fine wool, silk or cotton fabrics, coats and overcoats for boys (Fig. 54, b). The first line is laid at a distance of 1.2 cm from the cut edge of the rack, the second bend line stand, in between doing lines parallel to the oval line at a distance of 0.5 cm from one another. The departure of the lower collar scribbled zigzag lines with the distance between the corners of the lines equal to 1.5 cm In the products of cotton fabrics the distance between the lines of stand - 0.6 cm, and between corners 2 cm.

Stitch the bottom of the collar can be performed without stand (Fig. 54). 

 The connection of the lower collar with the gasket on a special machine used in men's, women's and children's products (Fig. 54, g, d). Depending on the shape and size of the collar in the finished lines carry along or across the parts at different distances from one another. So, lower collar spring, autumn and summer coats (ladies and girls) being the transverse lines at a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm from one another; in the lower collar coat for boys nursery, pre-school and school ages and womens winter coats stitch carry out across the details with the distance between the lines 3 - 4 cmThe ends of the lines should not reach the cutoff stands at 1.2 cm

 The connection of the lower collar with padding for sanding and special machines used in men's jackets and women's jackets, quilting rack the lower collar on the sanding machine with a distance between lines of 0.5 cm and a flying - on a special machine with a distance between lines of 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 54). 

In suits from fine fabrics the ends of the collar after the stitches cover the additional strip of calico or nonwoven fabric, to the finished product after pressing, the collar had no marks. 

 Adhesive bonding of the lower collar with the gasket. The lower collar after reputazione seams piecing together parts omelet and cut along the rack. He was then placed on lower pad press with wrong side up, put on his part of the strip an adhesive coating down, placing the middle sections of the strip under the seam allowances of the middle or imposing medium-sized slices on top of each other by 1 cm

When connecting the lower collar to the neck of the product bridging seam stand cut strip should be at a distance of 1.0 cm from the cut edge of the rack bottom of the collar or at a distance of 0.3 cm if the fabric is soft, thin.

If the lower collar on the model should be stachan in the device neck patch seam, it is processed as follows. After piecing together parts and resoluzione stitches piecing together the precise line of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar.

Prokladka from linen fabric with an adhesive coating on the slices Raskatov stand and scribbled patch seam stripe dyed fabric (calico, calico). The gasket is applied to the lower collar, combining it slices with slices strips of cotton cloth, and unite iron or press (Fig. 54, g). After connecting with the bottom spacer collar obmeleet mold, and then cut along the ledges and go. 

 Wet-heat processing and refinement of the size and shape of the lower collar. When the wet-heat treatment (iron or press with special pillows) lower collar priorivet, giving it the form corresponding to the model. 

Omelko and pruning of the lower collar perform to Refine its size and shape. Omelko produce special patterns. Excess and uneven at the ends, departure and line terminations are cut with scissors or oznacovani car. In this case, the cut stands do control the notch necessary for proper connection of the collar with the neck of the product. 

In the products of technological design operation oskarovka the bottom of the collar is missing.

To reduce the thickness of the seam during the production of the lower collar in the products of fat tissue strip along the edge of the stand are cut at 1.0 cm. 

At the bottom the collar is notched at the front Darts mark almalki at the bottom of the collar. Tuck cut with the gasket and grind off the seam width of 0.5 cm, and then rautureau. The ends of the sutures are cut 1 cm from the edge of the stand (see Fig. 54, d).