The side gasket in the products of outerwear used to increase the stability of the side edges, to keep the socks attached to the shelves three-dimensional form and, finally, to increase the strength of Priselci button fastening pockets. 

The side strip is made from linen fabric without adhesive coating, powder adhesive coating, and also from cotton fabrics with adhesive coating. 

In accordance with the technical description on the model side the gasket is treated with an additional lining of side hair, adhesive fabrics and nonwovens or without lining.

The connection parts and the Assembly of the side strips 

To save fabric side strip cut out with an extension. The main part of the strip cut out a whole or in two parts. 

To obtain a three-dimensional form in strip Darts do, the number, size and location of which depend on the shape and size of the Breasts, and also from the style of the product. Tuck in the side strip make the cut, connecting them to a patch, seam or butt weld seam.

Flatlock recesses starting from the upper sections of the strip. When stitching the patch seam width at the top 1 cm of the ends of the seams nullify 1 cm below the incision. The stitching is performed on the sanding machine or machine zigzag stitching. 

With the flatlock seam butt slices Darts combine, placing them striped cotton fabric. Sections connect to one zigzag stitch or two rows on universal machine. 

When you glue the sections of butt Darts combine and connect the iron strip of fabric with an adhesive coating. 

Extension connects with the main part as well as tuck.

When assembling the parts of the side strip used methods of stitching and adhesive mounts separately or in combination. 

The sequence and number of operations in the processing side of the strip depend on the processing methods and the number of parts. So, in women and children products shoulder pads and lining in the chest is used only in cases when it is required but model. Therefore, the Assembly of the side strips for these products is easier than for men.

The Assembly of the side seals without hair pads and hair strips are produced on special or sanding machine. 

When building without hair extensions for increased rigidity at the upper part of the side strip is applied a shoulder pad, equalizing shoulder seams and the seam of the armhole, and scribbled zigzag lines along or across the overlap with the distance between the corners of 2 cm Lines should not reach the shoulder sections and the sections of the openings 4 cm, to the sections of the neck 6 cm (Fig. 45, a).

In products with unfastened at the bottom-lined interior cut side strips overcast on a special machine.

When assembling with a hair lining and side lining of linen fabric or nonwoven on the markup applied to the hair columns (for products made of expensive fabrics), hair, then shoulder pads and scribbled on the edge of the oval shoulder pads at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. Then strip wasteheat along the hair lining.The first line doing in the middle of the hair extensions, the other - parallel to the first at a distance of 2 cm from one another (when the lines on a special machine with a zigzag stitch) or at a distance of 1 cm (when the lines on a sanding machine). The lines should not reach the shoulder cuts on the 4 - 5 cm.

The edges of the hair plates scribbled strips of cotton fabric (a summary) two lines on the machine with a zigzag stitch, at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edges. A summary feature so that the middle of it coincided with obraznymi edges of the hair plates (Fig. 45, b). 

When nastraivanii reports on the both sides of the hair lining the side strip pokazyvaut 0.5 - 0.7 cm to give the necessary convexity of the side strip at the chest.

In some models single-breasted jackets and coats the hair lining cut out so that they come on the lapels. In this case, the summary is scribbled along the side and bottom sections of hair extensions and parallel to the line of inflection lapel, 1.5 - 2 cm from it. 

Sometimes the hair on top of the pads put the second layer of the crinoline, nonwoven or flannel. Parts connect with one line down the middle of the pads, and then scribbled (Fig. 45, b) as described above. 

The side molding strips 

In the process of wet-heat processing side strips gives the final shape in accordance with the type and style of the product and the size of the figure. The processing performed by the two spacers to provide a symmetrical and good fixing attached to form an iron or press with special pillows. 

In the processing of iron side strips folded lining of the hair inside, combining all the slices, and place on the universal pad bulge on the oval edge pads, side sections in the direction of running.

The gasket sativum the edges of the lapels and the sides, the neckline and the armholes to remove the slack formed by the landing on the summary. Value suteki side and lateral portions of the strips depends on the required size of the bulge. 

Stojko side edges of the strip is performed in four stages. 

The first trick Stoica edge of the lapel. The gasket is placed on the pad so that the fold line of the lapel, passed parallel to the base pads. Convex portion of the strip is placed over the oval edge of the pads. Stojko produce up to eliminate the slack on the edge of the lapels (Fig. 46, a).

The second method - Stoica side edges. The gasket is placed on the pad side sections in the direction of running. The slack formed at the edge of the boards, storevault to obtain a flat and smooth gasket surface (Fig. 46, b). 

The third technique stojka the edge of the neck. The gasket feature of the pad is the shoulder sections and neck sections. The middle convex portion of the gasket must coincide with the edge of the oval pads. The slack formed at the edge of the neck, fully sativum (Fig. 46,).

Fourth technique - Ironing the sides. The gasket is placed on the last slices of the armhole and side edges to the running, placing the convex strip-shaped edge of the pad. The strip is moistened and produisait, satwiwa slack formed at the edges of the openings and inner sections (Fig. 46, g). 

After Ironing the edges, and the formation of the desired shape of the convexity of the gasket produisait in other areas, eliminating folds, samini and providing a smooth transition from one section strip to another.

When processing on the press side strips combined in the same way as in the processing of iron, put on the bottom cushion of the press. The bulge of the pads in the breast area combined with the convexity of the cushion of the press; the edges of the strips are straightened so that the resulting slack in the area of lapels, the neck and the arm openings were distributed evenly. When the pressing is formed to the specified form of the strip. 

The processing and Assembly of on-Board pads using the adhesive methods of fastening parts 

For the manufacture of side strips to the shelves outerwear is currently used brushed interlining cloth with adhesive powder-coating: cotton fabric one-sided fleece "Dupli clothing" and low-harsh cotton fabric of the type of crinoline. 

Change method of attachment of parts led to the need for changes in the design of the side strips.

Side strip of adhesive materials can be single layer or multilayer. Single layer side gasket used in the manufacture of women's and children's products free form (Fig. 47). In this case, the main part of the side strip cut out of a brushed fabric with an adhesive coating with a detachable cap or the lapel (Fig. 47, b). For laying in the lower portions of the sides cut out additional details.

To reduce the stiffness of joints in the product, the dimensions of the gasket reduces in comparison with the size of the shelves at the mouth to 1.3 cm at the shoulder cut 0.5 cm at the top, 1.2 cm tuck in Top tuck in strip cut with a longer tuck in a shelf on 2 see If podborta tselnokrajnie with shelves, side strip to reach the crest line the shelves or go for it on a 2 cm Strip in the lower areas of podborov cut out already podborov 8 cm; the length of the strip in podborta should cover the main part of the side strip 1.5 - 2 cm.Since the gasket before connecting the shelves to any treatment is not exposed, it should be cut out very precisely.

If the gasket is multi-layered, in addition to basic side of the strip, to cut out without lapel or lapel, to increase stability in the shoulder and chest cut out a shoulder pad and the pad in the chest. These pads can be cut out detail and beading with a detachable lapels together with padding in the lapel (Fig. 47). In this case, all or individual parts of the side strips can be cut from fabric with an adhesive coating.Thus, in the manufacture of men's coats and jackets main side strip without the lapel is cut from brushed interlining fabric with an adhesive coating, a lining in the chest and shoulder (one piece) of a fabric with a wool blend weft without glue coating. The padding in the lapel is cut from brushed fabric coated with a shoulder pad and trim to the chest (Fig. 47, g).

Application of the method of adhesive attachment changes the contents and amount of work when assembling the side strips and connecting them with shelves. If all the parts of the side strip is made of fabric with an adhesive coating, then the Assembly side strip and connecting it with the shelves can be produced before or after initial processing of the shelves. 

In the first case, the Assembly side of the strip and its connection with shelves produced on a press with a versatile pillow of the type USP-1 or TSU-1. Then handle the Darts, seams, etc. (Fig. 47, d).

In the second case, the Assembly and connection of the parts of the side strip with shelves perform on the press with special pillows of type SPB-1, SPB-6, SPB-7. The bottom cushion of the press stack a shelf, underside up, on a shelf put the primary side gasket gasket collar and gasket in the lower area of the adhesive-coated side down. The connection of the side strip with shelf is in the process of pressing details.

If design side strip is the hair strip without the adhesive coating, it was applied on the main side of the strip. The hair on the pad stack shoulder pad, cut from fabric with an adhesive coating along with padding in breast area. Details connect pressing.

If the primary side strip cut from the linen cloth without the adhesive coating, and an additional spacer - hair linings and pads, cut from fabric with an adhesive coating, the processing side of the strip consists of treating the Darts and joining parts on a machine zigzag stitching (see Fig. 47, d).