The pockets in the shelves of outerwear products are very varied in their design. They can be Welt, in-seam and patch.
Welt pockets are divided:
at the location of the shelves on the side and top; in the direction of the cut of the shelf in the horizontal, vertical and inclined; according to the cut - with straight and curved cut; by finishing the edges with leaves, flap, facing; according to the type of processing of edges treated in Kant and in a frame.

Treatment side Welt pockets with flaps 

The processing of suchpockets comprises machining valves, burlap and Assembly pockets.
 Processing valves. Processing of valves described above (see here).
 Treatment burlap. In men's coat and jacket in burlap right pocket and additionally treated with a pocket for coins.
When the location of the pocket in the front of the burlap it is cut from the top edge to the line of overlap of the valance vertically. To the upper edge of the main burlap pritachivajut additional sacking of the pocket (Fig. 28, a) with a seam width of 0,7 cm.
Additional burlap bend, combining neprilichnye end with a upper cut basic burlap. This situation burlap clip-oblique line (Fig. 28, b).
The inner sections of the burlap pocket for coins grind off the seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm. Outer slices grind off simultaneously with the grinding of the main burlap side pockets.
On one end of the burlap scribbled the valance lining fabric, adjusting top and side sections. The lower end of the valance bends in 0,7 - 0,8 cm, line performed at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge of the valance. If the burlap is pre-processed pocket, scribbled on the valance burlap combining bent edge with the top edge of the pocket (Fig. 28).
Sometimes the burlap scribbled valve. In this case the valve is placed on the burlap side of the valance face-up, combining the upper sections of the valve and burlap with woodcarving. The sides of the valve are placed at equal distances from the lateral sections of the burlap.
Nastraivanie doing the line marking on the valve.
To the second end of the burlap pritachivajut the facing of the main fabric seam width 0.7 - 1.0 cm (Fig. 29, a).
 Assembly of the pocket. On the shelf from the front side of the support patterns mark three lines: one horizontal line of the pocket and two vertical lines defining the ends of the pocket. On the valve side of the lining a special mold mark line primaqiune, which determines the width of the valve. After marking in the pocket from the wrong side shelves enclose dolevik from calico, calico or fabric. Dolevik can also be glued to the shelves. It is placed so that one end played for the side cut of the shelves is 0.8 - 1.0 cm; the middle of dolevik combine with the cutting line (Fig. 29, b).On the shelf with the front side flap is applied to the processed edge towards the upper sections of the shelves, lining up, aligning line and print fabric on the shelf and valve. Valve pritachivajut to the shelf, securing the ends with double reverse stitching. Obtachku (with sacking or not) pritachivajut to the shelf seam with the width of 0.5 cm. the ends of the lines should be placed at the level of the sides of the valve. The distance between rows equal to 0.6 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 29). The shelf between the lines cut in two;first make a slit in one side and then the other, without bringing the incision up to the tips of 1.0 - 1.5 cm Incisions done two inclined towards the ends of the lines of the cuts, not reaching the ends of the lines by 0.1 - 0.15 cm (Fig. 29, g).
Primaqiune piping and cutting the shelves can be performed simultaneously on the machine with the knife. After cutting the burlap turned inside out shelves, straightening the edge of the pocket. When processing the edges frame the seam primaqiune deploy piping around the seam allowance of the piping on the seam of the facing. When processing of the lower edge of the pocket in Kant (in the products of fat tissue) Kant form of piping, twisted in the incision on the side of the inside shelves without deploying seam primaqiune piping to the shelf in the direction of the piping.
Straightened the edge of the pocket reinforce stitching. Depending on the model along the bottom edge can be completed finishing line.
The end of the burlap with woodcarving pritachivajut to the upper edge of the slit in the seam of primaqiune valve to the shelf. Shelf bend at the cut lines face inwards, straighten the seam allowance primaqiune valve, bend the burlap so that the edge with the valance aligned with the cut valve. At the same time see to the sides of the burlap matched, and burlap had no distortions.
The burlap grind on three sides with a seam width of 1 cm, at the same time securing the ends of the pocket in three lines (Fig. 30, a). The line continues along the edges of the burlap with the extension from the end of the pocket 1.5 - 2.0 cm. the ends of the pocket additionally secured with front side on a special machine, the positioning of the tie parallel to the lateral sides of the valves. Pocket priorivet from the inside and the front of the iron or press with a special pillow.
If the model on the upper edge of the pocket provides the finishing line, do it before or after Ironing on the front side with the guide bar. The start and end lines placed at right angles to the line of primaqiune valves.

Treatment side Welt pockets with flap and two obrazkami

This type of pocket is used most often in products from fine suiting fabrics. In this case, one facing is used for machining the bottom of the pocket, and the second to improve the appearance when the flap is tucked into the pocket.
To handle pockets cut out two piping with a width of 3 to 4 cm
One facing iron in half along the part and scribbled on processed previously, the valve along the line marking the width of the valve. On the shelf lay the pocket four lines-two horizontal and two vertical. The distance between horizontal lines should be equal to twice the width of the piping in the finished pocket. The valve facing pritachivajut to the shelf, superimposing his face on the front side of the shelf and aligning the line on the valve with the upper horizontal line marking the pocket on the shelf. The ends of the valve fix double reverse stitching.
The second facing, not sautieva, scribbled on a shelf, aligning the stitching with the bottom horizontal line marking. Distance from the line to cut the piping is 0.4 - 0.5 cm.
After primaqiune valve and obcutek shelf cut. Lower turn obtachku on the side of the back edge of the pocket scribbled and straighten the seam primaqiune piping.
Further processing is identical with the processing side pockets with flap. Assembly scheme of the pocket shown in Fig. 30 b.

Treatment Welt pockets without valves with rectilinear incisions shelves 

Welt pocketswithout valves can have horizontal, vertical and inclined cuts. Depending on this, as well as the thickness of the fabric pocketing the different.
The edges of the pocket to produce one or two obrazkami, cut in longitudinal direction of the warp threads. Machining pockets in the product fabric medium thickness (costume) is performed as follows. To one end of the burlap pritachivajut the valance of the main fabric seam width 0.7 cm Then on the shelf space the pocket four lines-two up and two - across. Median longitudinal line determines the position of the slits for the entrance to the pocket.The second and third longitudinal lines define the position of the inflection obcutek when participarii them to the shelf, the Transverse lines define the ends of the pocket.
After marking in the pocket under the shelf from inside enclose dolevik.
On the shelf put obtachku, press or folded in half lengthwise parts with wrong side inside, combining a line break piping to the upper longitudinal line marking, and pritachivajut it to the shelf. Distance from bend piping to line equal to 1/4 of the distance between the upper and lower lines (0,4 - 0,5 cm). With the ends tucked double reverse stitching.
Press it with the inflection of 1.0 cm the second facing is applied to the shelf so that the line of its crest coincides with the lower longitudinal line marking of the pocket pritachivajut to the shelf. Distance from line to bend piping must be equal to the width of the piping in the finished pocket (0,4 - 0,5 cm).
The shelf is cut between the lines, finishing the cut corners. Piping turn towards the back shelves. To the lower facing pritachivajut the burlap pocket. The second end of the burlap with woodcarving pritachivajut to the top edge of the pocket, doing the stitching in the seam of the upper piping primaqiune. The ends of the pocket clips double reverse stitching.
To piping in the finished pocket is not dispersed, pocket smatyvay stitching on the front side or on the machine one thread chain stitch the burlap about primaqiune seam of lower piping. Pockets priorivet iron or press, then grind side and bottom side of the burlap.
When machining of the pocket in the products from fat tissues markup fulfill three lines, as in the processing of flap pockets. Piping pritachivajut to the shelf, placing them slices about a longitudinal marking line of pocket. The distance between rows equal to 0.6 - 1.0 cm Primaqiune of obcutek can be performed on needle machine with a knife. The edge of the pocket is treated in Kant (Fig. 31, a) or frame (Fig. 31, b). Further, the pockets are treated the same way as described above.

Treatment Welt pockets without flaps with notched openings ass

To handle this pocket piping cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads or, respectively, the shape of the cut. The pocket is marked by three lines. With the inside shelves or glued primetyvajut dolevik. Piping placed on the shelf according to the planned lines and pritachivajut seam width 0.4 cm Then the shelf is cut, obtachki inside out, the edges of the cut manually spawn straight stitches with a length of 0.7 - 1.0 cm, forming from obcutek edging or frame. Piping fixed lines, which combine with seam of primaqiune of obrazek.When you run the top line under the shelf and enclose the lower part of the burlap with woodcarving. The upper part of the burlap pritachivajut to the facing bottom edge of the pocket seam with the width of 0.5 cm before or after treatment of the cut of the pockets. Smachivanie the edges of the pocket, securing the ends, stitching burlap and Ironing produced as described above. Assembly scheme of the pocket is given in Fig. 31 b.

Processing upper Welt pockets with leaflets in his jacket

 Treatment burlap. To one side of the burlap pritachivajut the valance of the main fabric seam with a width of 0,7 cm. On the second part of the burlap lining the scribbled leaves. The bottom edge of lining bends of 0.7 cm and scribbled seam width of 0.2 cm
 Processing the leaves. The leaf process, primativa it to the top edge of the lining seam with the width of 0.5 cm (Fig. 32, a). The finish line, not bringing it to the side sections of the leaflets are 0.7 - 1.0 cm.
The ends of the piece is marked on the pattern. On the piece of paper from the inside glue a strip of edging fabric, calico or nonwoven fabric with an adhesive coating, positioning the upper edge of the strip at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the line and the ends - 0.1 cm from the line marking the ends of the leaves. The ends of the leaves on the iron lines in the direction of the underside of the leaves. The top and bottom corners of the press of the parties leaves cut, leaf iron, bending it at the upper edge of the strip and forming edge with a width of 0.2 cm from the material of the leaves.
If the strip is used interlining without adhesive coating, after the felling of the lining of the leaves on the burlap of the leaves pritachivajut to the free edge of the lining without burlap. The gasket put between the lining and the burlap, placing the seam allowances primaqiune leaves to the side of the burlap. The lining, a strip of nonwoven fabric and the burlap grind off the lining of the leaves at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from seam primaqiune leaves (Fig. 32, b). The excess strip at the top and side edges cut out, the Further processing is the same as described above.
On a piece of paper plan a line of primaqiune. On the piece of paper from the lining applied, the subsidiary pattern. The top edge of the patterns call with the processed edge of the leaves, the lining is bent into a curve and Bogota edge produce otelco. The lining of the leaves and the burlap at the ends are cut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edges press it on the width of the leaves in finished form (on the line pattern width; Fig. 32).
 Assembly of the pocket. Pockets partitioned by the auxiliary pattern by three lines (one along and two across the ends of the pocket). If the product is made from fabric with a pattern, when marking the pattern on a piece of paper and adjust the picture on the shelf. The leaf face is put on the front of shelves of processed edge in the direction of the bottom of the product, and combining the line pattern and the fabric, the leaves pritachivajut to the shelf. In the products of wool fabric, primativa leaves, peel back the lining.
The seam allowance of the seam in the leaf is incised around the bent side edges, without bringing the cuts to the stitches at 0.1 cm
The middle part of the seam folded in the direction of leaves, which cover the burlap with a lining and the lining pritachivajut to the shelf. When participarii lining some pull to when pulling away the leaves in the upper sections of the shelves on the lining was no overlap.
On the other hand lines of the pocket pritachivajut to the shelf valance with burlap. The valance features the face to the shelf, adjusting the side sections of the valance and leaves. The line performed at a distance of 0.7 cm from the slices of the valance and at a distance of 0.8 - 1.0 cm from the seam primaqiune leaves. Line of primaqiune valance should not reach the ends of the lines of primaqiune leaves: the side Board - 0.5 cm, at side of armhole - 0.2 cm Valances can be partecipate to the car with a knife. Shelves cut in the same way as in the processing side Welt pockets.
Burlap turn into slits towards the back shelves. Slip pocket straighten, combining print fabric on shelves and along the upper edges of the leaf, and secured in this position by manual stitches. Seam primaqiune valance rautureau rasstraivaet or two lines. Pocket priorivet. The leaf is fixed manually from the inside of the shelves. Then grind off the burlap circle, enclosing when performing lines dolevik strip of calico, calico for attaching the pocket to the seam vrachevanie sleeve in the armhole of the product. Seam width 1.0 cm.
The ends of the leaf attached to the shelves on the front side sanding machine or on a machine with zig-zag stitching. The line performed at a distance of 0.1 - 0.15 cm from the side edges of the leaves, then the top edge on the segment length of 0.2 - 0.3 cm stitch Length should be no more than 0.1 cm the Ends of sheets it is possible to hand sew hidden stitches with a length of 0.2 - 0.3 cm with bartacks at the corners with three or four stitches, and the top edge on the segment length of 0.2 - 0.3 see Assembly Diagram of the pocket is given in Fig. 33.

The processing and Assembly side Welt pockets with leaflets 

Such pocketsused in coats and other products.
 Treatment leaflet (see here).
 Treatment burlap. The burlap is treated, if the width of the leaves on the model of less than 3 cm (the shelf). In this case, to the bottom of the burlap pritachivajut the valance of the main fabric. For ease of handling in the pockets with a vertical or inclined cutting the valance and burlap cut with curved sections (Fig. 34, a). Joint width of 0,7 cm. primaqiune
 Assembly pockets (Fig. 34, b). Pockets shelves partitioned by the auxiliary patterns. If the leaves at the ends are obtachki, at the same time mark out the length of the leaf cross lines.
On the shelves from the inside attach the dolevikov. Processing is allowed without the pocket of dolevikov, in this case, the incisions are treated by placing a burlap. On the shelf, stack the leaves, combining a line marking on a piece of paper with a longitudinal line marking the pocket on the shelf, and the ends of the leaves or the lines marking the ends of the leaves with transverse lines. On the piece of paper placed the top part of the burlap, the leaves with burlap pritachivajut to the shelf at the same time.
The second part of the burlap with a valance or without a valance put on a shelf face down cut (burlap or valance), butt slices pricechannel earlier, the leaves, the joints of primaqiune Podzorov to the shelves rautureau. If the ends of the leaf heavily beveled, the ends of the lines shift relative to the ends of the lines of primaqiune leaf so that in the direction of the acute angles the line was longer than 0.3 - 0.4 cm, on the contrary, in the direction of the obtuse angles is shorter by 0.3 - 0.4 cm
Shelves between the lines cut the same way as in the processing side pockets with flaps.
Turn the burlap on the wrong side of the shelves.
Neobychnye the ends of the leaf secured to the underside of the shelves when skiving burlap pockets or pritachivajut to the shelves on the sanding machine. Obracanie the ends of the piece of paper scribbled on a shelf according to the model one or two lines on the sanding machine or on a machine with zig-zag stitching. When attaching the leaves spread, combining the fabric on pieces of paper and shelves. The ends of the leaf can be also hand sew hidden stitches with a length of 0.3 cm, clipping the corners, and four or five stitches.

Processing features Welt pockets in the products of wool fabric with lining, ending below the waist and in the products without lining 

Pocketing in products with short lining or without lining has the following features:
the dolevikov under the grub pockets do not put;
when participarii valves, leaf and Podzorov under the shelf and enclose the burlap, so when cutting burlap warp should be parallel to the line of the pocket;
burlap pockets sew a double seam or sew and overcast.