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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Undercut machining, inserts, flounces, frills, ruches


 Undercuts. Undercuts connect with the main part of the product bridging or nastronie seams. When machining undercuts one part of the product parts are usually harvested on a string (Fig. 92). Detail of the folded face inward and smatyvay straight stitches with a length of 1.0 cm; the length of the slice in Assembly needs to match the length of the cut without assemblies. Undercuts grind off the intended lines from the Assembly, the seam gradually nullify the further end of podraza 1 - 1.5 cm of Thread from smachivaniya removed, the seams are folded to the side parts without assemblies, and iron. Seams undercuts scribbled on the front side of parts (Fig.93) using a presser foot with a guide.


 Insert. In making the dresses with inserts of various shapes trim the shelves of the bodice at the chest level. This insert is often made of rectangular and oval forms (Fig. 94) and treated with cap or sew-in collars. 

If the insert is a rectangular shape with a single cut collar, it is first treated by collar insertion. The treated side of the insert is folded from the middle part of the front bodice and smatyvay from the inside, edging edge insertion obmeleet mold, leaving a seam allowance. On the chalk line lay a string manually or on a special machine.

Handle cutout of the shelves of the bodice. From the inside precise mold shape of the cut, leaving a seam allowance, and make a thread. The corners of the neckline is an additional process pokrainini with strips of fabric. These strips applied to the front of the shelves, combining the corners, pritachivajut and netscout in the corners, not reaching a line 0.1 cm

low-Cut neckline edge of the bend inside the laid thread and zametyvayut straight stitches with a length of 1 - 1,5 cm, at the same time bend and zametyvayut strips of fabric in the corners. Swept the edge of the cutout priorivet is applied to the insert and primetyvajut.

Cutout shelves of bodice scribbled on the box with the help of a special foot. The width of the lines is determined by the model. Then the shelf of the bodice are treated together with the insert. 

Insert oval treated the same way as in the previous case. After processing the trimming edge insert obmeleet mold, leaving a seam allowance. On the chalk lines are laid thread. 

Handle cutout shelves of the bodice. On the underside of the shelves of the bodice clarify the patterns cut shape, leaving a seam allowance, and make a thread. Cut end of the cut bends for the laid thread, and zametyvayut priorivet.

The thus-prepared edge of the cutout is applied to the insert, primetyvajut and scribbled. The stitch width set according to the model. Further the shelf of the bodice are treated together with the insert. 

 Flounces, frills, ruffles. The width of the ruffles, frills and ruches set on the model. To manufacture them cut out strips of fabric at an angle of 45' to the warp threads, with the frills used in more narrow stripes than for shuttlecocks. Treatment depends on the type of fabric and models of products. One slice of flounce or ruffles overcast on a special machine with ACC trimming the edges inward, or work on the sanding machine with double bending of the slice with the help of a special foot. 

The processed edge ruffles or flounce priorivet, gently stretching it without breaking lines. The second cut edge is collected on a string.

Puffed up both of the cut is treated in the same way as in flounces or chiffon. To obtain a ruffle ruffle lines lay in the middle. 

Ruffles and flounces connect with the basic details of bridging, nastronie and patch seams. In addition, ruffles and flounces can be tacuati in seams, Darts, pleats, etc. In this case, frill or flounce is placed on the front side of the part on the planned line and primetyvajut.

Through primitivne ruffles or flounce back details zametyvayut narrow crease, which should include trimming the edge of a flounce or ruffles. The hollow grind from the inside or scribbled on the front side. The width of felling set on the model. 

Processed ruching is placed on the front side of the parts planned lines, primetyvajut straight stitches with a length of 1.0 - 1.5 cm and scribbled in between the lines. Thread lines for the formation of assemblies on the ruffle is carefully removed nadeeka every 3 - 5 see



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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