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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 10.1 Treatment Welt pockets


  Treatment Welt pockets without valve with straight cut. To handle this pocket (Fig. 29, a) requires the following details: the facing from the core material or finishing cloth - two, the sacking of the basic material is one (maybe two parts), dolevik - one (if necessary). Piping pockets can be a single cut shoulder with burlap. 
Treatment of such a pocket can be done in various ways. 
  The first method. For the main part on subsistence patterns or lines cutter, I specify the location of the pocket by three lines (Fig.29,b) - one equity, which determines the direction of the pocket, and two transverse, determining the size of the pocket. Then put the two auxiliary lines above and below the middle of the planned line at a distance equal to twice the the width of each of the edging or frame. In the mass production of pocket space on the front side of the part on the auxiliary patterns of the four lines.The distance between the two equity lines, must be equal to twice thethe width of two edges or frames of the pocket.
In products from tissues, easily amenable to expansion, with the inside main part under a line of pocketenclose dolevik from cotton fabric width 4 5 cm so to the middle of dolevik coincide with the intended line of the pocket. Obtachku the upper edge of the pocket along the bend in the middle and folded inside outinside and bottom piping bend one equity region in the direction the inside of 1 - 1.5 cm and iron the folds. Prepared piping applied to the main part bends towards the auxiliary the lines and cuts in the direction of the cut pocket. Individuallythe production of piping pre-primetyvajut so that their ends go beyond the lines defining the pocket size, 1.5 - 2 cm from each side. In mass production piping pritachivajut without prior primitivne at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the bend obracac (Fig. 29, g) depending on model. The stitching needs end strictly at transverse lines determine the size of the pockets. The correct primaqiune of obcutek check with the inside main part. In this line of primaqiune of obcutek should be parallel andto end on the same level in the transverse lines of the pockets. The opening for the pockets cut from the inside (between the lines), starting from the middle of the pocket on both sides (Fig. 29, d), At a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the ends of the pocket make the cuts slanted towards the the ends of lines, ending them at a distance of 0.1 - 0.15 cm, from ends lines. Through the resulting hole obtachki inside out, the edgesstraighten the ends of obcutek tighten so that the edges of obcutek joined at the butt, and fix ends of pocket from the inside back machine stitch along the base of the corners.
If the pocket lining consists of two parts, one part should be shorter than the other 4 - 5 see a Smaller part of the pritachivajut to the lower facing. Joint width 1 cm the seam bent to the side lining of the pocket. A large part of the lining pritachivajut to the upper facing, laying the line from the inside seamprimaqiune piping (the core part thus bent). The width of the seam at this should not be less than 1 cm Seams protecive lining to obtachku overcast on a special machine. Lining the pockets makes three sides, clipping the corners of the pockets and rounding out the stitching in the corners of the lining.Joint width 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 29,e).
Seam stitching lining pockets overcast on a special machine. Pocket ready priorivet from the inside and from the front side via a spacer, straightening region. During the processing of a pocket on a special machine operations such as primaqiune piping, cutting the main parts between the lines primaqiune of obrazek and partial viverravidae of obcutek inside out products are performed by the machine. 
  The second method. With the aim protect the pocket from stretching sometimes instead of laying the dolevik the handle pocket,lined pocket (Fig. 29,g). In this case lining cut out in one piece, the warp yarn must pass across lining. Pocket space with the front of the main details as well as with the first method. Then plan a line of location of the pocket lining. It should be at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm below the middlelining across it. From the inside main part on the line of the pocket enclose the underside of the lining inside, combined the chalk line forthe lining with the planned line on the main part. The facing upper edge of the pocket wrong side bend inward, and the bottom piping bend one equity cut in the side of inside of 1 - 1.5 cm and iron the folds obrazek. Prepared piping pritachivajut (Fig. 29,h), and at need to first primetyvajut the same as in the first method. After cutting the holes for the pocket obtachki inside out, the edge of the pocket and the corners straighten and fasten ends of pocket from the inside reverse machine stitch along the base of the corners. Top edge pipingpruned, leaving 1 cm, and sections of piping round the upper part lining pocket. If the pocket lining is cut not from the main fabric, in the fold between the facing and lining put the valance from the main material face up and fix the fold machine line the inside around the seam of the upper piping primaqiune, by bending the main part. The lower sections of piping and valances products from fine fabrics that bends inside and scribbled on the lining at 0.2 cm from bent edge (Fig. 29), and in products thick crumbling tissue slicespiping and valances overcast on a special machine and scribbled on lining without bending sections. Lining the pockets sew on three sides with rounded lines in the corners. Joint width 1 - 1,5 cm When grinding lining fix ends of pocket to the reverse stitching at the base of the corners. The seam stitching of the lining is overcast on a special machine. Pocket ready priorivet from the inside and from the front side via a spacer, straightening the edges.
  The third way. According to this method, the edge of the pocket is treated with a lining pocket (Fig. 29, K). 
In some cases, most often in individual production, region Welt pocket treated with a pocket lining of primary of material or fabric finishing. With this method for processing the necessary lining up of two parts. A large part of the lining will to be both top and facing, and a smaller part is the bottom.
Warp yarn in the lining of the pocket must pass across the lining parallel slice petacci. The upper sections of the lining bend to the side the inside width equal to the value of Kant plus the seam allowance about 1.5 cm and iron the folds. Mark the pocket on the front the main details the same as in the first method. Liningsuperimposed on the front side of the main part bends towards the auxiliary lines and the bent sections inside so that the side hand lining was out of the lines defining the pocket size, 1.5 - 2 see
In the individual manufacture of the pocket lining primetyvajut. Pritachivajut the lining at a distance prescribed by model. After checking the correctness of protecive lining cut the hole for the pocket. Through this orifice the lining Evert on the underside of the part.
At the top of the pocket from the top of the piping form a pleat depth of 1 - 1.5 cm, clip the ends of the pocket to the reverse machine stitch, sew the lining circle, rounding out a line in corners. Seam width of 1.2 - 1.5 cm In the upper part of the line are laid in seam protecive lining, by bending the main part of the product.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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