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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 10.2 Treatment Welt pockets


  Treatment Welt pockets with oval cut.For processing pocket with oval slits (Fig. 30) details: facing from the core material or finishing fabrics or two pocket lining - one (in two parts). The top edge of the lining should fit the grub pocket. Piping cut at an angle of 45' to warp. One of the edges of each piping bend towards the inside 1.5 cm and iron the folds. At the same time bends piping pulled to the receipt of the form, the corresponding line of the pocket. Piping put on front side of the main part bends to the auxiliary lines slices in the direction of the cut of the pocket, be sure primetyvajut, and then pritachivajutat the distance prescribed by the model. After validation primaqiune of obcutek primary part from the inside in the middle between lines cut, finishing cut corners size 1 - 1.5 cm, obtachki inside out, straighten, and fix priorivet the ends of the pocket from the inside double reverse machine stitching on the baseangles. A smaller part of the lining of the pocket pritachivajut to the edge of the lower piping. Joint width 1 cm Seam folded and wet-heat processingpocket iron at the side of the lining. A large part of the liningapplied to the underside of the main part to the upper facing and pritachivajut in seam primaqiune this piping, by bending the main part. Lining pocket makes, rounding out the lines in the corners. Joint width 1 - 1.5 cm Seams protecive lining to obtachka and seams in stitching lining overcast on a special machine. Pocket ready priorivet from the inside and the front side across the strip, straightening the edges.

Treatment Welt pockets with notch grub. To handle pockets with curved grub (Fig. 31) required the following details: facing rectangular shape - one or two, whether the form of the cut of the pocket; pocket lining one (of two parts or whole). Pocket space with the front of the main details utility patterns or lines caused by the cutter, three lines - one equity determines the direction of the pocket, and two transverse,determining the size of the pocket.
On the front side of the main part place the piping face down, cuts close to the planned line pocket, primetyvajut straight stitches at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the slices. 
Piping pritachivajut at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from slices, securing the stitching at the ends. The distance between the lines depends the width of the edging or frame and should equal the width of two edges or framework. The correct primaqiune of obcutek check from the inside out. In this line of primaqiune of obcutek should be parallel and end at the same level.
Seams primaqiune of obcutek rautureau. The main part is cut from the inside in the middle between the lines, starting from the middle on both sides. Not reaching the ends pockets 1 - 1.5 cm, make the cuts slanted towards the ends lines, ending them at a distance of 0.1 - 1.2 cm from the ends of the lines.Through the slits of the pocket obtachki inside out, the edges straightened, forming from obcutek frame width of 0.2 - 0.5 cm so that their edges connected back to back. When you custom frame orders spawn stitch length of 0.7 - 0.8 cm at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seamprimaqiune of obrazek.
The lower frame, pockets secured on the front hand stitching in the seam of primaqiune piping, to the lower facing pritachivajut a smaller part of the lining of the pocket. Joint width 1 cm Seam bent in the side lining of the pocket. Sometimes the bottom cut out facing together with a lower part of the lining of the pocket. Then prostrachivajut top the frame of the pocket in the seam of the upper piping primaqiune, enclosing the inside out the second part of the lining of the pocket. If the lining is cut from a different cloth, then to the top end its definitely pritachivajut or scribbled valance from the main fabric.
The ends of the pocket fasten to the underside of the base corners double reverse stitching at the same time grind off the lining pocket circle with rounded lines in the corners. Joint width 1 - 1,5 cm Seams protecive lining to obtachka and seams in stitching lining overcast on a special machine. 

Treatment Welt pocket with flap. To handle Welt pockets with flap (Fig. 32,a) the necessary the following details: valve of base material or finishing cloth - one, facing the bottom edge of the pocket from the primary material -one, pocket lining of base material is one (maybe two parts), dolevik of cotton fabric - one (in the products from tissues easy to stretch). The finished valve schedule line primaqiune and thereby specify the width of the valve. Handling the valve set forth in Chapter 1, § 9. On the main detailsutility patterns or lines caused by the cutter, specify the place the location of the pocket into three lines - one equity, which determines the direction of the pocket, and two transverse, defining the size of the pocket.
To facilitate processing of the bottom edge of the pocket facing from the front the master plan details a construction line down from the middle line at a distance equal to twice the width of the edging or frame. Products from fabrics, easily amenable to expansion, with the inside line to the pocket two equity lines at a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices primetyvajut dolevik so that its middle coincides with the intended line to the pocket. Equity one edge of the piping to bend in the direction of inside width equal to Kant's width plus the seam allowance (about 1.5 cm), and iron bend.
The treated valve is applied on the front side of the main details facedown treated edge up, combine the planned line on the flap and main part, watching the match pattern, especially at the front of the pocket pritachivajut the valve (Fig. 32,b), securing the stitching at the ends. When custom orders valve before pritachivajut pre-primetyvajut. Seam bent in the direction of the valve. 
Allowed to participate one (big) part of the lining pocket along with a valve.
Prepared facing applied to the front side of the main part bend butt to the planned construction line and the lower (press) edge inside. In the manufacture according to individual orders obtachku primetyvajut, and in mass production without preliminary pritachivajut primitivne at a distance prescribed by the model (Fig. 32).
The ends of the lines end at the transverse lines of the pockets. The correct primaqiune valve and piping test inside the main details. In this line of primaqiune valve and piping should be parallel and end at the same level in transverse lines the layout of the pockets. The main part is cut from the inside in the middle between lines starting from the middle of the pocket on both sides. At a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the ends of the pockets make oblique incisions in the direction of the ends of lines, ending them at a distance of 0.1 - 1.2 cm from the endslines. Through this orifice the facing and the seam primaqiune valve turn inside out, straighten the edges, the ends of the piping tighten so to press the edge of the piping was butt up to the seam of primaqiune valve, and fix ends of pocket from the inside double reverse stitching the base angles. A smaller part of the lining of the pocket pritachivajut to the internal cross sections of the piping. Joint width 1 cm seam are bent, while further wet-heat treated iron to side lining pocket. Seam protecive lining to the facing overcast on special car.
Another part of the lining of the pocket pritachivajut to the valve, paving line with the inside details in seam primaqiune valve to the main details. Lining the pockets sew on three sides, rounding out the stitching in the corners. Joint width 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 32, g, d). The seam grinding lining overcast on a special machine. Pocket ready priorivet from the inside and from the front side via a spacer, straighteningregion.
The lower side of the pocket sometimes treated without piping lining. In this case, a smaller portion of the lining along the length of the cut out with the allowance for the width of the piping. Warp yarn in the pocket lining needs to pass across the part parallel to the upper slice.
Markup pocket performs the same way as in the first method. Before pritachivajut the upper edge of one of the lining pocket bend towards the inside width equal to the width of Kant plus the seam allowance (about 1.5 cm), and iron. After primaqiune valve prepared lining superimposed on the front side of the main part of face up bend to the planned construction line of the pocket, press edge inside and pritachivajut the same as the facing (see Fig. 32,d).
Cut the core part, and fix the ends of the pocket and sew the lining the same way as in the processing of the first method. 
  Treatment and compound finishing valve. The lining for finishing valve cut out is wider than the valve on the line primaqiune 0.5 cm Processing finishing valve perform the usual way. Connect the valve to the part is two lines so that seam primaqiune was located between them. First valve is applied to the main detail on the intended lines lining down and pritachivajut, laying the first line on the seam allowance of the lining (Fig. 32, e). Width seam 0.3 - 0.4 cm Then the valve is folded up and lay the second line at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the fold (seam primaqiune),closing the seam primaqiune (Fig. 32, g). Valve ends sew manually.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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