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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 10.3 Treatment Welt pockets


  Treatment Welt pockets with leaflets. For processing of such pocket (Fig. 33, a) requires the following details: leaves from the core material or fabric finishing (according to model) - one, pocket lining of primary material - one (from two parts), dolevik of cotton fabric - one (as required in products from fabrics easily stretch). 
  The first method. The finished leaf outline line primaqiune it to the primary and thus I specify the width of the leaves in finished form (processing leaves set out in Chapter 1, §9). For the main part on subsistence patterns or lines caused by the cutter, I specify the location of the pocket three lines - one equity, which determines the direction of the pocket and the line primaqiune leaves, and two transverse, defining 
the size of the pocket.
In the products of tissues easily amenable to expansion, with the inside line to the pocket two equity lines at a distance of 0.5 from the slices primetyvajut dolevik so to the majority of dolevik in width were located to the side the leaves in finished form and only 1 cm below the seam primaqiune leaves. In the manufacture of individual orders for the leaf applied to the front side of one part of the lining of the front pocket side up (Fig. 33,b), treated with edge down, equalizing the cuts and releasing the edges of the lining over the ends of the leaves by the same amount, and whenvertical arrangement of the leaves on the main details top release the end of the lining relative to the top-end leaves to 1.5 cm and primetyvajut leaflets to the lining.
United thus the leaves and one part of the lining of the pocket is applied to the core part, combining the intended line on a piece of paper and main details, and primetyvajut pritachivajut (Fig. 33), positioning the line at a distance of 0.1 cm from lines of primitivne. In this leaflet should be between the main detail and pocket lining. The ends of the lines end at the cross lines pocket. Thread primitivne removed. In mass the production of the leaf is applied to the front side of the main part facedown, combined lines on a piece of paper and main detailscuts to the grub pocket. On the piece of paper applied one-part lining pocket wrong side up and pritachivajut one line lining and the piece of paper, equating sections.
Seam primaqiune leaves and lining bent in the direction of the leaves. The second part of the lining applied to front side of the main part face down, butt to the seam primaqiune leaves (Fig. 33, g). With vertical location pocket, releasing the upper end of the lining relative to the end of the leaves on 1.5 cm, primetyvajut (individual production), and then pritachivajut at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the seam primaqiune leaves.
In the vertical arrangement leaves the line in hot (lower) end the finish leaves 0.3 - 0.5 cm above the end of the line of primaqiune leaves to the primary, and in the blunt (top) end end flush with the end of the line of primaqiune leaves or above 0.2 - 0.3 cm, depending on the slant of the ends.
In the pockets where the leaf has straight ends, the lines end flush with ends primaqiune leaves. After that the burlap folded in the direction of the leaves and for strength sometimes scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam primaqiune. After checking the correctness of primaqiune leaves and lining of the main pocket detail is cut between the lines from the inside, starting from the middle and short 1 - 1.5 cm before the end of the string, then make sloping cuts, ending them at a distance of 0.1 - 1.2 cm from thethe ends of the lines. If one end of the pocket is included in the connecting seam,detail cut starting from the edge. Through this orifice the lining turn inside out articles, leaflets are bent to the side the location of its. Seam primaqiune leaves when the custom orders for products made of woollen fabrics spawn. In products from silk, woolen fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre paper primetyvajut to the primarymanually straight stitches one stitch in the middle and priorivet.
In mass production after screwing out the lining of his pocket inside out fix ends of pocket from the inside double reverse stitching at the same time grind off the lining, rounding out a line in the corners. Joint width grinding pads 1 - 1.5 cm Slices lining the pockets and seams primaqiune it to the main part overcast on a special machine (Fig. 33,d). The ends of the leaves depending on the model scribbled on sanding machine or manually sew hidden stitches. If one of the ends of the leaves included in the connecting seam, the raw endleaves tightened and fixed to the primary part at the same time the stitching of the lining pocket.
  The second method. In to avoid the seam primaqiune leaves and lining pocket for the primary products of thick petievich tissues of the leaf may to be tselnokrajnie with one part of the lining of the pocket. In this case lining scheduled the fold line of the upper edge of the leaves. 
Lining pockets bend on the planned lines or on nadechka, fold inside out and grind the ends of the leaf (Fig. 33,e). Width seam is 0,5 - 0,7 see
In some cases, for greater stability and elasticity before grinding of the ends to the leaves imposes a pad of cotton fabric or proklamelin. The gasket on the width of the bead carve. The leaves turn at its front side, and priorivet plan a line of primaqiune or the line defining the width of the leaves in ready to use. The leaves applied to the main item, combining the planned line on a piece of paper and main details, primetyvajut (if manufacture according to individual orders) and pritachivajut, combining drawing on the fabric (if the fabric is patterned).
The second part of the lining of the pocket pritachivajut butt parallel to the seam primaqiune leaves. Joint width 0,8 - 1 see cutting the part between the lines for the pocket, viverravidae lining, securing the ends of the pockets, stitching and lining attaching all the leaves to the main parts are the same as in the first method (Fig. 33,g). 
  The third way. The width of the leaves depends on the model (1.5 - 2 cm). The leaf cut out together with pocket lining. The lining may be one piece or consist of in two parts.
Lining (cut one piece) first facial the parties scheduled a mid-line (Fig. 33,h), and then from the middle uplay twice the width of the leaves in finished form and set second line. Lining bend and fold the underside inside in the middle between the two scheduled lines. For products from the tissues, easily amenable to stretching in the crease for greater stability leaves primetyvajut equity pritachivajut or the lining of cotton fabric, width equal to the width of the leaves in finished form.
On the main details on the lines caused by the cutter, or utility patterns specify the location of the pocket into three lines - one equity, defining the direction of the pocket and the line primaqiune leaves, and two transverse, defining the size pocket. The prepared lining is applied on the front side main part of the fold down lower part of lining up, combining the planned line on the lining (second line) and the main part so to fold the lining was below the planned line on the main partat a distance equal to the width of the leaves (1.5 - 2 cm), and pritachivajut on the lining, finishing lines strictly from transverse lines, determining the size of the pocket (Fig. 33). The upper part of the lining of the pocket bent down and 1.5 - 2 cm (depending on width leaves) from the first line lay a second line. Correct primaqiune check the leaves to the underside of the main part. In this case the lines should be parallel and end at the same level, and the distance between the lines should equal the width of the leaves in ready(the distance from the lining fold to the first line of primaqiune it to main part). The main part cut in the middle between the lines finishing the cut ends at angles as well as in the pocket with leaves, processed first way, and the lining on the front side is cut in between the lines to the edges of the lining in a straight line. Lining turn inside out, straighten the leaf, the ends of the leaves pull so that the top edge of the leaves coincided with the seam primaqiunelining.
The main detail in the ends of the pocket are bent and the ends pocket clips reverse machine stitch the base angles, at the same time grind off the lining, rounding out a line in the corners (Fig. 33). The width of the seam grinding pads 1 - 1.5 cm slices for lining and seams primaqiune it to the main part overcast on a special machine. Pocket ready priorivet from the inside and from the front side through strip, straightening the edges of the leaves and the ends. 

  Treatment Welt pockets with frill or lace. To handle this pocket (Fig. 34, a) requires the following details: trim (or lace) one lining pocket, one (maybe two parts), the strip of base material for the edging slit pockets one (cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads). On the main detali on utility patterns or lines caused by the cutter, clarify the location of the pocket into three lines - one equity, which determines the direction of the pocket, and two transverse, defining the size of the pocket. Then put the auxiliary lines to primaqiune ruffles or lace. The edges of the frills and the formation of assemblies, see Chapter 1, § b, and 7. Frill or lace applied on the front side of the main part face up and pritachivajut on the planned lines, enclosing with the inside main part, one part of pocket lining wrong side up. In the end pockets the stitching negated. A strip of cloth for the edging of the cut pocket fold in half wrong side inside and priorivet. Prepared the strip is applied to the basic detail cut-to-cut pockets, and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm depending on the width of Kant.The main part between the cut lines at the end of the pocket, without cut to the line by 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 34, b). Pricechannel stripes bent on the wrong side of the pocket around it, the seam forming primaqiune and Kant. Kant reinforce machine stitching in the seam of primaqiune strips, with the inside of the inner edge of the strip must fall under line. The second part of the lining of the pocket is applied on the reverse side of the first part face down, equalizing sections, and sew the lining circle. Joint width 1 - 1.5 cm Slices lining overcast on special car.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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