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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 10. Features of processing of products in the integrated brigades

In the manufacture of apparel according to individual orders of the brigade is the most progressive method of operation. 

The brigade method of work, the division of labor for 6 - 9 people at the beginning 50 years has become the main form of organization of labor in workshops, it has increased productivity, wider using special equipment, thereby reducing the cost of processing the product.

However, in small teams it is not feasible to use a large number of special equipment. So in the first place in such teams need to use the machine zigzag stitching, overlock, buttonhole machine blind stitch.

For a more complete use of special equipment can relevant operations out of the overall process and to instruct them the contractor, simultaneously serving two or three or more brigades.

At present, the Studio and workshops is the question of sharp improving productivity, lowering the cost of the product and however, the reduction of terms of execution of orders. The solution to it first of all, if you change the forms of organization of enterprises, manufacturing products according to individual orders, in particular, when the introduction of the integrated brigades. Already now in some Atelier work crewsnumbering 8 people, began to spread enlarged the teams with the total staff of 9, 12, 15 or more people. In such the teams products are sewn with one fitting.

Jobs in the brigade may be positioned in various ways. 

  At cross-section location jobs the tables are set perpendicular to minuscolo, to receive the workpiece. This layout is the most rational use of production space, creates a comfortable position for the worker meets the conditions technique safety, improves discipline. 

  In diagonal arrangement jobs tables and majuscule put at an angle of 60' (in some cases 45 ) to the line of advance of the semi-finished product. This layout is working places in the unit called "Christmas trees". The advantage of this method location of jobs is the possibility of rational use of premises of different lengths and widths. Aggregates of the type "tree" recommended to accommodate small teams. 

  When the longitudinal arrangement jobs tables placed parallel to the line of advance of the semi-finished product. This layout is used in those cases where aggregates with cross or diagonal arrangement of the seats can not be set. When this arrangement jobs less work area insufficient area transfer of the workpiece in the process from worker to worker.

  In the combined location jobs (parallel and longitudinally to the line of movement processed products) there are various combinations in the arrangement desktop.

In the manufacture of products on the one fitting reduced production time of orders and the production cycle, frees up the space needed for storage of products, prepared for the second fitting reduces the number of visits Atelier customer. 

Work with one fitting requires highly skilled execution of each operation on the production of garments, requires high-quality cuts the preparation of the product to the fitting and to the fitting on the figure of the customer. 

The basic conditions in the manufacture of products with a single fitting are as follows:

a) the exact measurements of the customer's figure and taking into account the peculiarities of its Constitution; 
b) accurate and specific definition of a model for the acceptance and checkout (in the manufacture of products with two fittings, the final determination models are made on the first fitting);
in) precision cut that can to be achieved by using patterns of structural foundations developed on modern silhouettes clothing experimental workshops businesses or TSOTSIL (Central experimental technical garment laboratory) on the basis of the unified method of design. The cut should be made with respect to the direction of the pile, the fabric direction yarns the basics of a duck or permitted extensions, subject to allowances for reserves and the joints, the physique of the customer and the selected model. On the details must be caused the notch to connect the parts, especially in areas that impact the balance of the product, specified areas of the wet-heat treatment;
g) the degree of readiness of the product for acceptance, which is determined according to from the complexity of the model and silhouette of the product, features of a Constitution customer and process materials; 
d) conducting a thorough fitting by the customer; 
e) the systematic increase of esthetic level of the cutters in modeling and designing clothes.

When cutting the product with regard to these conditions in the process of fitting in products make only small changes. The product in the manufacture of its with one fitting the customer with the figure conditionally proportional body to the fitting needs to be performed the following operations: 

a) must be the sour cream all structural shapes and lines, and slices Darts, pleats, sour cream side and shoulder seams. In products, cutting at the waist line, must be connected the bodice and skirt. The fitting can be a fully processed individual structural and shaped lines side zipper;
b) in women's lightweight dress, as well as in outerwear sleeve should be Votan, not pinned. Smetany toproducts fitting sleeve ensures the correctness of the establishment of its length and width, provides an opportunity to compare it with the overall silhouette of the product. In products at shapes pereghibati, stooped, with different shoulder level and the products of heavy and moving tissues, as well as in outerwear, umatyvaet two sleeves. In products with sleeves casual Raglan cut the armholes of the back and front are pre-put edge;
b) must be tacked on (umetani) decorative details, the crucial model: pockets, collar, cuffs, various trims, ruffles, etc.; 
d) in products with a large neckline on the neckline needs to be padded string. If the cutter is confident in the size and shape of the cutout, the neckline can be completely executed and the edge set edge; 
d) hem and sleeves must be done. In products with a flared skirt hem is not zametyvayut.

Flare at the bottom of the garment to the fitting for a long time (two or three days) must be in limbo (this is necessary be considered when determining the period of manufacture of the order); 
e) in the skirt to the top edge needs to be tacked on grosgrain ribbon; 
g) the product is prepared for the fitting must be carefully protogene. 

The processing of each node of garments when preparing them for fitting must be performed in accordance with the standard methods of sewing.

Time for a fitting product for the customer boils down to three main methods: to clarify the product landing on the figure; the refinement of form and the ratio of the product taking into account the individual characteristics of the customer and to clarify the shape, size and placement decorative details products.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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