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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 12.1 Processing of invoices pockets and connecting them with the product


  Treatment of smooth patch pockets. False pockets (Fig. 37, a) cut out with an allowance on the ACC side and the down sides for a width equal to the distance from the edge of the pocket to finishing line of felling it at the main part plus 1 - 1.5 cm. So, if the finishing line of felling to the main pocket detail at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, the seam allowance along the side and bottom the sides should be equal to 0.5 plus (1 - 1.5) cm, i.e. 1.5 - 2 cm In upper edge give an allowance for ACC, equal to 4 - 5 cm.
Products made of fabric, easy to tension, fold the top edge of the pocket with side of the seam allowance are laid edge to protect the edge of the pocket from stretching. Edge pritachivajut on the car at a distance of 0.1 cm from edges. Slice allowance for ACC upper edge of the pocket in the products of wool and silk fabrics bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge.
In products from cotton fabrics allowance for ACC on the upper edge pockets nadechka or intended bend lines on the front side. Cut 0.5 - 0.7 cm bent in the direction of the stock and grind the corners on the amount of the allowance (Fig. 37, b). Joint width should equal the width allowance on the sides of the pocket. Allowances of seams up to the notch cut leaving 0.5 - 0.7 cm, turn the corners on the front side,correct; in the products of cotton fabrics bent section zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge. The top edge of the pocketpriorivet simultaneously iron the edge of the pocket along the side and bottom parties.
The purpose of the economical expenditure of the tissues of the upper edge pockets can be machined by the facing (Fig. 37). Internal cut piping in products from wool and silk fabrics bend to the side the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent region. The facing applied to the front side of the front pocket side down and grind on the sides and upper edge. 
The width of the seam along the upper edge of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, on the lateral sides of the joint width should be equal to the allowance for bending the side edges.
The seams, in corners cut. Corners turn, straighten and priorivet, at the same time iron the edge of the pocket along the side and bottom sides.
In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja fabric side and the lower sections of the pocket needs to be serged on a special machine. If the bottom corners of the pocket are rectangular in shape, the allowance for ACC along the side and bottom sides sew along the line (at 45'), the seam is cut (see Fig. 20). Seam allowances on the products from cotton fabrics laid out on two sides, and in the products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau, corners and straighten priorivet.
If the invoice the pocket has an oval edge and connects with the main part of the finishing stitching distance from the edge exceeding 0.5 cm, for processing the side and bottom edges of pocket allowance for ACC is not given, and the edges it is recommended to treat the facing, cut to shape SMD pocket. The width of piping must be equal to approx 3 - 3.5 cm in the width of the finishing stitches. So, if the width of the finishing lines About 8 cm, the width of the piping is equal to a 2.75 - 3 see This value consists of 0.7 cm on the seam grinding, 0.8 cm - wide stitch finishing plus 1 - 1.5 cm.
Sections of internal piping in products from legkopolirujushchiesja tissues overcast on a special machine. After folding the seam allowance at the top edge of the pocket on the front side or after grinding the top edge of the pocket facing on a front side SMD impose the pocket facing side and bottom edges of the pocket face down, stack the slices piping with sections of pocket (the top ends of the piping should lie on top of the allowance or piping the upper edge of the pocket) and simultaneously turning angles to producegrinding the side and bottom edges of the pocket. The width of the seam grinding 0,5 - 0,7 cm Seam corners are cut, the facing folded inside out, the corners and seams straighten and priorivet, forming a pocket in the side piping, piping width of 0.1 - 0.2 see
The location of the overlay pocket on main part clarifies utility patterns or markings cutter when fitting three cross badges or points, which should correspond to the location of the two upper corners and one the lower front corner of the pocket.
The pocket is applied to the main the item according to the markup in the individual production namachivajut. Scribbled the pocket with the foot with the guide of the finishing line at the distance prescribed by the model. The top corners of the pockets is fixed double reverse stitching or stitching in the shape of a triangle. Products of wool and silk fabrics for durability from the inside enclose pieces of cotton fabric in a rectangular shape. In the pockets where obtachku pritachivajut only on the upper edge, the corners of pockets is fixedline, passing from the sides of the upper edge of the pocket by 0.7 see



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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