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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 12.3 Processing overhead of the pockets and connecting them with the product

 Processing surface-mounted pocket with padding. Laying in patch pocket can be calico, nonwoven fabric and in rare cases of polyurethane foam (foam rubber). The dimensions of the gasket must match the dimensions of the pocket.

The upper section of the seam allowance ACC upper edge of the pocket bend towards the inside on 0.7 cm, is applied to the top edge of the strip so that it coincides with the intended fold line of the upper edge of the pocket, and scribbled on a distance of 0.2 cm from the bent edge of the pocket. Then the allowance for ACC bend on the front side on the planned line, the strip fold with pocket, right sides inside and grind the corners (Fig. 41). Width equal to the width of the seam allowance for hemming the sides. The seam is trimmed, leaving on a plot of bending of 0.7 see the Corners turn out, straighten andpriorivet simultaneously iron the side and bottom edges of the pocket. In the manufacture of products for individual orders the edge of the pocket pre-zametyvayut.
In products - of legkopolirujushchiesja fabrics cut parts pre-overcast on a special machine. Pocketsuperimposed on the primary part according to the markings and scribbled on the distance prescribed by the model (see Fig. 41). Pocket ready priorivet. 

  Processing surface-mounted pocket with lining. In some cases in the products of wool and silk fabrics with nastraivanii patch pockets on the main detail line with the distance from the edge of the pocket more than 0.5 cm patch pockets treated lining. The lining can be tselnokrajnie with the top or cut separately. If the lining is cut out separately, it should to be equal to the size of the top of the pocket (Fig. 42, a) or be less the length and width on the value of Kant and allowance on upper edge (Fig. 42, b) . For greater stability, in some cases, between the top andlining put the gasket. In this case, first the gasketapplied to the underside of the lining with the top edge towards the fold line and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge of the strip.
If lining telekrona with the top of the item is put at the target the fold lines face inward, stack the slices and grind on the three sides. 
If the lining is cut out separately, top and lining fold, right sides inside, stack the slices and grind around Posiva detail top corners and curves, leaving the one of the sides of a hole for screwing out. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams corners are cut, leaving 0.2 - 0.3 cm, with a thin layer of stitches is cut out.
Pocket through the left opening turn on the front side, angles and straighten the seams in the manufacture of individual orders, spawn, priorivet, positioning the seam at bending or forming of piping in side liner width of 0.1 cm Left for screwing out of the hole manually sew hidden stitches.
Pocket applied on the the main item on the markup and scribbled with the help of paws with guide line at a distance prescribed by the model. When the custom-order pocket pre-namachivajut. A line at the beginning and end of clips. If the pocket scribbled on the main item on the edge or offset from the edge of the pocket to the stitching is not more than 0.5 cm, a patch pocket cut out with an allowance on ACC the top edge equal to 4 - 5 cm, and the lining along the length accordingly in short and width on the amount of the allowance for bending the sides.
In products from tissues, which are easily stretchable side with the part of the allowance pritachivajut the edge (see Fig. 42, b). Lining fold a seam allowance at the top edge of the pocket, equating sections, andpritachivajut. Joint width 0,7 cm Seam and iron are bent in the direction lining. At the same time iron the edges of the top pocket on side and the bottom sides.
The pocket is applied to the main item markup the top of the pocket are bent and scribbled lining threeparties, ending the stitching at the fold line of the upper edge of the pocket. On the lining is applied the upper part of the pocket and desgracia three parties at a distance prescribed by the model.
If the invoice the pocket on the lining need to be processed with the gasket, you must first to pricecat the lining to the seam allowance on ACC as indicated above, then the edge of the strip to impose on the underside of the lining, aligning the edge of the strip with the intended fold line of the upper edge of the main pocket, and Topstitch at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge of the strip.
After autoimune the side and bottom edges of the top pocket of his applied to the core part face up, the pocket from the main fabric folded and scribbled lining with padding at the distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge, ending the stitching at the fold line of the upper edge of the pocket. Then the gasket is applied to the pocket from the main fabric and scribbled on three parties at a distance prescribed by the model. 
  Processing patch pockets, the sides of which are included in the seams joining parts. The upper edge of the patch pockets, the sides of which are included in the seams connection details, is treated with a facing or seam allowance on ACC, when the upper corners are not treated. To connect the pockets to the main details of the schedule line of the lower edge of the pocket or make the notch at the the sides.

In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue the lower section of the pocket is processed on a special machine. If patch pocket must be connected to the main part of the finishing stitching (Fig. 43, a), then the utility curve plan line of bending. The lower section bends, iron on the planned line. After that pocket applied on the primary part on the markup and scribbled (in individual production with advanced namachivayam) the distance prescribed by the model.
In the absence of finishing lines (Fig. 43, b) a pocket applied on the front side of the main details face down, top edge in the opposite direction from the location of the pocket ready and pritachivajut the bottom edge to cut was located near the planned line. After that, the pocket bent on the front side of the main part facing up. 
Side side pocket scribbled at the main part at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the edge so that when further processing of these slices went into the seams connection of main parts.
For products made of cotton fabrics the side pockets are not allowed Topstitch, and invest between the parts of the basic parts during grinding. 

  Pocketing of the main parts of the product. To handle pockets, shown in Fig. 44, as required the following parts (Fig. 44, b): basic part 2 - top pocket, the upper edge of which is cut in accordance with the shape of the pocket; the facing upper edge of the main part 3, cut together with one part of the lining of the pockets (pocket lining can be cut separately, in Fig. 44, b its upper edge is shown in dashed lines); the bottom (against the pocket) item 1, cut along with other part of the lining of the pocket. This part of the lining of the pocket can also be pricechannel on the dotted line.
On the front side of the top part 2 is applied to the facing 3 face down and grind the top region, equating sections (Fig. 44,). Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the corners pruned, leaving 0.2 - 0.3 cm, and blunt the corners and in the places of rounding netscout. The facing folded to the side of the inside details, corners and seams correct, and in the products of wool and silk fabrics priorivet, forming edging in the direction of the piping with a width of 0.1 cm At the corners of the pockets lay the finishing line on the front side with the foot with the guide at the distance prescribed by the model. Processedthe upper part is applied to the bottom, equalizing the processed edge with scheduled line, and fasten at the sides with machine stitching length 2 - 3 cm, starting from the top of the pocket. After that, the upper detail, bend and grind off part of the lining pocket along the bottom edge (Fig. 44, g). Joint width 1 - 1,5 cm Seam overcast on special car. The side lining of the pocket does not grind, they should enter in the joints of the connection of the basic parts, but if desired they can be Stacey separately from the main parts.
If the end of the pocket is included in the crease or tuck, the lining should not be included in the splice seam details. In this case, after processing the upper edge of the main part put on the bottom on the planned line and by tilting the main item on the front side, connect the upper part with the lower line grinding the top edge on a plot of 2 - 3 cm from both edges, and then sew the lining of the pocket on three sides. The main detail of the bend on the front side, folded with the lower right sides inwards and sew,ending a line below the upper edge of the pocket pleat or tuck.
If side lining of the pocket are not included in the seams joining parts, as, for example, on the blouse (Fig. 44,d), after processing the upper edges the core part is applied to the bottom on the planned line, and by folding in side of working, connecting parts, making the line first line of stitching around the top edge at the site 2 cm, and then, turning parts at an angle, sew the pocket lining on three sides (Fig. 44, e). In the area between the pockets in the upper part to grind from the bottom line of stitching around the top edge and stitch finishingscribbled on the front side at a distance prescribed by the model, with using the presser foot with the guide line. Pockets ready priorivet.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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