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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 13. Types of loops and their treatment

In the manufacture of women's and children's clothing using various loop: otechnye, serged, vetochnogo cord, braided cord, straight strips of fabric in the seam bridging and stitched straps. 

  Obecnie loop. Location oblachnykh hinge precise front side details utility patterns or lines caused by the cutter, three lines - one equity, which determines the direction of the loop, and two cross, determining the size of the loop. The size of the loop must be equal to the diameter buttons plus 0.2 cm, if the button is flat, or 0.5 cm, if the button spherical. Then put the two auxiliary lines above and below the average planned line at a distance equal to twice the width of the edging. In mass production the location of the hinges is marked on the frontside of the part at the subsistence patterns of the four lines - two lines along and two across the ends of the loops (Fig. 45, a). The distance between longitudinal lines should be equal to twice the width of the two edges.
Loops can be handled by one or two obrazkami. Handling to perform one - needle machine and special machine for processing oblachnykh loops.
When processing loops, one facing the facing cut so that the warp yarn passed along its length. The length of the piping should be larger than the length of the loop on 2 - 3 cm (1 - 1.5 cm each side). The width of the piping depends on the width of Kant. So, when width of edging 0.3 cm width obtachki should be approximately equal to 2.1 - 2.3 cm In the processing of oblasnoy loop - needle machine one facing the equity side of the piping bends with special device or iron so that its width in the form of pressequal to the distance between the two longitudinal lines scheduled for main part (Fig. 45, b), i.e. twice the width of two ropes, when the cuts should not reach the bend of the piping, an amount equal to Kant plus the width of 0.1 - 0.2, see Press the facing is applied to front side of the main part, aligning the folds with the planned obrazek longitudinal lines. The ends of the piping should marry the intended line of loop size on 1-1,5 sm from each side. In individual production obtachku primetyvajut one linein the middle. Obtachku pritachivajut on one or two needle machine securing the ends of the lines (Fig. 45). The distance from the lines to bend obrazek must equal the width of Kant. When processing obtekanii loop individual production of the facing is applied to the face front side of the main part. The slices are piping bent at the levelauxiliary lines and pritachivajut on the distance from the bend, equal width of the edging (Fig. 45, g).
When processing oblasnoy loop two obrazkami piping bend along the middle underside and inside iron bends. Prepared piping is applied on the front side details bends towards the auxiliary lines and pritachivajut from bend at a distance equal to the width of the edging (Fig. 45, d).
The correct primaqiune of obracac (one or two) check from the inside the main details. The lines should be parallel and end at the one level is strictly at the transverse lines defining the loop size. After checking, the sections of piping bent to the side edges, the core part and the facing is cut from the inside in between the lines, starting from mid-hinge on both sides. Not reaching the ends of the loops on 0,5 - 0,7 cm, make oblique cuts towards the end of the string, ending them at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, from ends of lines. Obtachku on the fronthand cut to end in a straight line. Through this orifice piping turn inside out the main parts, straighten the edges. The main the detail in the ends of the loop are bent on the front side, the ends of obcutek tighten, straighten the corners and fasten the ends of the double loop machine stitch the base corners (Fig. 45, e).

Fig. 46. Buttonhole loop by hand 

  Sewn loops. These loops (Fig. 4B) is most often performed on a special machine and less manually. The location of the loops plan front side utility templates two points so that these points in further the treatment was in the line of the cut.
If you have a special the fixture on the machine platform, which determines the distance between loops, mark only one choice for the top hinge. Buttonhole performed on a special machine, the lower thread in the bobbin needs to be silk. The ends of the thread after serging loops are cut. Size loop adjust in a certain range.
In the processing loop them manually mark the two points defining the loop size, and line cut that determines the direction of the loop. After marking perform hole for hinge strictly on the intended line, and then produce the eyelet buttonhole stitches having the pattern on the front side slice. The frequency of the stitches at the buttonhole depends on the thickness of the thread and ranges from 15 to 20 stitches per 1cm of line. The size of the stitch (distance from the puncture needle to cut the loop) depends on the falling fabric and is in the range of 0,1 - 0,3 cm Stitches are placed on the samethe distance from the edge and from each other and the prolongation of the thread produced the same stress. At the end of the loop put the tack perpendicular to the line the grub. The ends of the threads output to the wrong side parts, fixed and cut.
The loops are of different length depending on the diameter of the buttons. Their perform cotton thread No. 50 - 80 silk No. 65 - 75. 

  Vetochnogo loop of cord. For vetochnogo cord cut a strip of basic or finishing fabric strictly at an angle of 45' to the warp width 2 - 3 cm depending on tissue thickness (Fig. 47).
Cut a strip folded along the length double face inside and grind off first at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold, and then depending on the thickness of the cord, - 0,2 - 0,3 cm (Fig. 47, b) . The suture is cut, leaving a seam allowance, equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Cord turn on the front side with a needle, and in the presence special fixtures viverravidae performed simultaneously with the flatlock. Then pull the cord so it is tight, filled throughout the length of the same, and priorivet on the soleplate.
The cord cut into equal pieces with length equal to the diameter of the buttons plus 1.3 cm Loop is applied to the front side of the part to the right side cut clasp, evening the ends of the cord with the edges of the cut and attach reverse machine stitching or by hand three to four stitches each end at a distance of 0.4 - 0.6 cm from the edge so that the line or stitches attaching the ends in the further processing were in the seam and not cut off when cutting the weld (Fig. 47). 
The distance between the ends of the cord of each loop must be equal to the diameter of the buttons.
Then, the slit edge of the zipper facing the handle (Fig. 47, g). 
  Loops of braided cord. In the manufacture of light clothing are widespread trim threads pull out of the tissue product. In such models when processing clasps, these threads are used in the manufacture of cord for loops. Loop weave by hand of two or more ends of filaments (Fig. 47, d). After making cord pulls, iron, but not cut, and made from the whole cord, bending it in places of attachment, having bends in the direction of the cut zipper. Attach these loops by hand or on the machine as well as loops from vetochnogo cord. 
  Loops from straight strips of fabric. Loops from straight strips of fabric perform most frequently on clothing for children (jackets, robes), designed for classroom work; they apply also in the manufacture of linen.

For the execution of the loop cut out a strip of cloth with a width of 3.5 cm and a length depending on the number of loops. Strip length for a single loop should be equal to two diameter buttons, plus 4 cm warp yarn of the strip should pass down the middle of the part. The strip is folded along half wrong side inside,equating slices, then tuck the slices inside and on zastrugivajut a distance of 0.1 cm from the upper bent edge (Fig. 48, a). Striped zastrochennye edges cut into equal parts in length depending on diameter buttons and fold in half across the strips, forming a bendthe triangle, which is fixed at its base a transverse engine stitching or by hand (Fig. 48, b). Loop applied to the front side items to the right side of the incision closure, equalizing the ends of the strips with the edges of the incision, and attach the reverse machine stitch or manually three or four stitches on each end at a distance of 0.4 - 0.6 cm from of the cut, so that the stitch or stitches attaching the ends further treatment caught in the seam (Fig. 48).
Then, the slit edge of the zipper facing the handle or podborta.
  Loop in the strap seam. These loops are stitched into the seam of the strap and bridging strap seam. Their processing is described below.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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