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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 14.1 Processing of the boards and clasps


  Treatment of cutting boards podborany. When treatment of cutting boards podborany (Fig. 49, a) podborta can be cut with extensions: in dresses with zipper up to the waist and blouses - one extension in the clasp to the bottom, coats and dresses-coats - no more than two. Extension is applied to the front sidepodborta facedown and pritachivajut from nadstawki, equating sections. Joint width 0,7 cm Seam straightened out and in the products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau. Seam primaqiune extensions may be held in a transverse or oblique direction. The magnitude of the skew is notto exceed 1/3 of the width of podborta. The length of the extension must not be see b less than the distance from the joints to the hinges must be at least 2 cm If the product cut from transparent fabric, right podbot should be solid (not supers).
The inner sections of podborov treated in a special (blanket stitch) or machine sanding. 
In the products of silk fabrics, mid-falling (crepe de Chine) the inner sections of podborov overcast. If podborta have strip, buttonhole carry out with the gasket. The width of the seam serging needs to be not less than 4 mm, the frequency of lines - three to three and a half stitch for 10 mm lines.
In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja internal tissue slices podborov it is recommended to buttonhole their subsequent zatrachivaniya seam bodybu open cut (Fig. 49, b), or treated without serging the seam itagiba with a shut cut. 
Internal sections podborov for products made of cotton fabrics, in addition to the above, treated with suture itagiba the open cut (Fig. 49). 
In the jewelry clasp to top inner sections of podborov, whether with edge and having the same tension with the main item, not process.
Products that have a gasket in the sides of the fabric an adhesive coating, the strip is applied adhesive side on the wrong side podborta so that it is defended from the inner edge of podborta 0.7 - 1 cm, on the outer 0.5 - 0.6 cm, and the bottom line is the ACC bottom on 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 49, g), and bonded using an iron or press.
In the manufacture of individual orders in products with grommet side of cotton fabric strip cut sizepodborta. The gasket is applied on the front side of podborta and grind on the inner edge of podborta and humeral cut (Fig. 49, d). Joint width grinding 0,5 - 0,7 cm, Then the strip is folded and scribbled on seam grinding at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam (Fig. 49, e), departing from the shoulder cut podborta 1 - 2 cm Then podbot turn on the front side, straightening the seam, and priorivet, positioning the seam at the foldor forming the edge of podborta in the direction of the strip.
In products with pad at the side of nonwoven fabric a strip cut out so that it is not reached the inner edge of podborta 1 - 2 cm (ready). After processing the inner edge of the gasket applied to the undersidepodborta and fasten with pins, equalizing the slices on edge of a Board and neckline.
On the right shelf, depending on the model handle obecnie loop or attach a loop of vetochnogo or braided cord. Processed podbot applied to the front side shelf front side down, equalizing sections (Fig. 49, W). In sales individual orders podbot namachivajut with landing in the corner of the ledge, the area of the lapel (in products with flaps), plot loops, and hem jackets and dresses-coat - with planting shelves. In the products of wool tissue landing on the edge storevault so that the iron did not go over the linenamachivanija of podborta. In mass production grinding of sides produce without prior namachivanija of podborov.
Podbot applied to the front side of the shelf face down, break the pins and grind using the guide ruler or a special legs with Director. The grinding is performed, with side shelves from the bottom to the notch at the top that defines the end of vrachevanie collar. The bottom edge podborov in products, cut at the waist, not grind, and the jewelry clasp to the bottom of the bottom of podborov pritachivajut to the shelf strictly on the intended line of bending the bottom.
The seams of the top and bottom the corners of the side cut, and in products from tissues, easily shedding, overcast on a special machine. 
The seam allowance on grinding bead scribbled section to snap to podbot, on the part of the lapels Board shelves. 
Line have a distance of 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the seam stitching around the side. 
The products thick fabric and sharp angles of the flaps ledges it is recommended to grind after machining the edges of the boards, positioning seam allowance seam grinding into the side of the shelves.
Depending on the model the lower ends of podborov in blouses, dresses-gowns, or jackets may not beobracanie and processed simultaneously with the suturing of the bottom of the product. Seams corners are cut, leaving a 0.2-0.5 cm.
Side turn on the front side, straighten seams (Fig. 49, h, and I) and spawn on a special machine or manual stitches. The inflorescence emerge on the site the cuffs perform from the shelves, forming a Kant from podborta and further side spawn from podborta, forming the edging of the shelves. The width of the edging of 0.1 - 0.2 see the mass production side priorivet, simultaneously forming a Kant. While Ironing is performed on the site the flaps (lapels) from the shelves, and the Board - side podborov. In products with a zip to the top of the edging around the Board to formfrom the shelves, and wet-heat treatment performed on the part podborta.
In the products of wool, silk and fabrics of synthetic fibers and the inner edge
podborov at the site of bending the bottom scribbled on the ACC at a distance of 0.2-0,Z cm from the edge (Fig. 49, K), and then every 15 - 20 cm is attached manually hidden stitches, making five or six stitches in each setting. If the product closes obraznymi or serged stitches on buttons in the locations of loops and buttons inside edge podborov not attached, but at the level of flaps attach to one bar tacking, positioning her between the shoulder seam and the top of the loop (a button).
In the products of clasp to bottom of cotton fabric podbot can be cut shorter shelves on the amount of the allowance for ACC. In this case, the first podbot pritachivajut to the allowance for ACC (Fig. 49, l). Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Seam stretched and folded in side of the allowance, then the allowance for bending, bend on the front side shelves for ndsatcom or its bottom line bending, podbot spread on the shelf, stack the slices, grind side podborany from the ledge to the bottom and further treated in the usual way.
Internal the edges of podborov can be attached to shelves bending sections inside, but without their zatrachivaniya. In products, cutting waist, right shelf bodice put on the left, combining lines the middle of the front or the notch on the bottom slice and fasten them with machines stitching on the width of podborta at a distance of 1 - 1.2 cm from the lower edge.

Fig. 50. Treatment podborta on the site oblachnykh loops

  Processing podborany sides, single cut shoulder with shelves. In this case, the shelf needs to be applied to the line of mid front and the edge of the Board or the notch in the sections, replace them. Internal sections podborov, tselnokrajnie with shelves, are treated the same as slices podborov cut separately. After treatment oblachnykh loops, if they designed a model of podborta bent on the front sideintended line the edge of the Board or ndsatcom and grind the ledges from bend to nasechek and bottom edges of the boards in products from clasp to bottom. The seams, in corners cut, turn the side to the front side seamsstraighten and priorivet. The inner edge of podborov attached as well as stated above. In the presence of oblachnykh hinges on the right shelf podbot under the cut loops in the ends of the angles, slices of podborta bends inside and sew hidden stitches (Fig. 50).



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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