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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 14.2 Treatment of the sides and clasps


  Processing boards nastronie straps. This clasp (Fig. 51, a) should be processed after the final refinement length shelves (products). On the shelf on the bar and plan a line of bending the bottom. The inner edge of the strap in the products of wool, silk and synthetic tissue bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm or more in the width of the finishing stitches felling and iron. Thus, when the width of the finishing stitches 0.5 cm, the value of ACC should be equal to 1 cm for easypayday and 1.2 cm for legkopolirujushchiesja tissues. Prepared the bar impose lower end on the front sideshelves face down (Fig. 51, b), combining the planned line bending the bottom and pritachivajut the bar on the intended line. At the same time in products from cotton fabrics inner edge of the strap bend in side on the inside 0,5 - 0,7 cm or more, depending on width lines felling. The allowance for bending the bottom shelves bend also the direction of the inside on the planned line, the slice bends inwards 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut around the bottom or only on the site strap on sanding machine, or sew on a special machine.
The bar bent on the underside of the shelf face down, fold, equating edging edge, having seam primaqiune strap on the bottom of the bend, and grind the side and the ledge of the bead to the notch defining end of the seam vrachevanie collar. Seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 51,). The seams in the corners cut, turn the bar on the front side, straighten the seam, forming the edging of the straps towards the inside of the shelves and the products wool and silk fabrics priorivet. The inner edge of the strap in namachivajut individual production and mass productionscribbled without prior namachivanija in the distance, provided by the model (Fig. 51, g). Bar in finished form priorivet.
The Board left the shelves can be processed in the same way as the right, or podborta inside out. 

  Treatment closure one facing. A clasp with a loop of vetochnogo or braided cord do most of just on the back of children's dresses or sleeves with cuffs. To top the side zipper first attach the prepared loop. When processing neck edging seam is first treated with incision. Processing cut perform the same facing. The incision is laid out in one straight line, the facing is applied to the underside of the main part facedown, stack the slices at the ends (Fig. 52,) and pritachivajut her side the main details. Joint width of 0.5-0.7 cm the coal mine seamnullify, i.e. the width of the seam from the main part needs to be 0,1 - 0,2 cm Seam folded in the direction of the piping, facing round seam, cut the piping to buckle inside 0.5 cm, closing line primaqiune, and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge, the stitching from the inside should take place around the seam of primaqiune piping to the primary (Fig. 52, b). The part of piping that forms top side zipper, folded inside out and priorivet, then applied to the lower and again priorivet. To reduce the thickness ofa bend in the piping at the bottom fastened from the inside across the width of the piping at an angle to the edge of the clasp (Fig. 52,) or from the front side one or twomachine stitches.
During the processing of the neck facing the first treated the neck (see Chapter 1, § 17).
After treatment of the neck incision are laid out in a straight line and primetyvajut obtachku same as above, but the ends of the piping should go beyond the cut edges of the neck on the value of at least 0.7cm (Fig. 52, g). After primaqiune obtachku fold along the middle face inside and grind the upper ends (Fig. 52, d), bending the free end of the piping towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, at this fold should overlap the seam primaqiune piping. Joint width 0,7 see the Seams, in corners cut, turn obtachku on the front side, corners and seams are straightened, cut piping bends inside and scribbled, closing seam primaqiune piping. Then treated in the same way as in the processing of neck edging seam (Fig. 52, e).

  Processing clasp with obrazcami-podborany. A clasp (Fig. 53, a) can be treated with one or two facing obrazcami-podborany. On obtachka-podborta specify the length of the incision. Part of the piping-podborta fold, right sides inside, equating sections, and sew from the bottom up to the notch defining end of the cut clasp. The joint products wool and silk fabrics rautureau and products of cotton cloths laid out on two sides. The inner sections of the piping or overcast zastrugivajut, bending in the direction of the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge.
In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue slices before zatrachivaniya overcast on a special machine. Line cut clarify to the underside of the main part. The facing applied to the front the direction of the main part face down, in the individual production primetyvajut, mass - pinned pins. Grinding cut performed from the underside of the main part, reducing line or making the rounding at the end of the cut in the value one or two stitches. The main detail on the intended cut line. A seam in the end of the section netscout, not reaching to line 0.1 - 0.2 cm Obtachkuturn inside out the main parts, straighten the seam, placing it the crook or releasing the edge of the main part in the direction of the piping, and priorivet. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja fabric seam grinding overcast on a special machine. The inner edge of the piping and bottom corners attached to the main details in a few places manually hidden stitches or on a special machine (Fig. 53,b). The clasp ready to priorivet.

  Processing of fasteners in the frame obrazcami-podborany. A clasp (Fig. 54,a) are treated with two obrazcami-podborany. 
The inner sections of podborov bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge (Fig. 54,b); products from leskoalas tissue slices previously overcast on special machine. The outer sections of podborov bend to the side the inside of 1 - 1.2 cm and iron.
On the front side of the main parts, except the middle line, plan construction lines to the left and the right of the median at a distance from it equal to twice the width of the edging. Thus, when the width of the edging is 0.5 cm, auxiliary line, scheduled from the middle line at a distance of 1 cm (Fig. 54).
Prepared piping-podborta impose it face up on the front side products press bends to the auxiliary lines and pritachivajut (if the custom pre-orders primetyvajut) from bend at a distance equal to the width of the edge, in this case at a distance 0.5 cm Piping-podborta are bent in opposite directions from the middle, the main part is cut from the inside between the lines reaching the end of the string by 1 - 1.5 cm incision is performed on the inclined towards the end of the string and not brought to the lines by 0.1 - 0.2 seePiping of podborta turn inside out the main parts, put them right sides inside and sew from the end to the bottom stitching on intended bend lines. Then the ends of otacek-podborov tighten, the main part bent at the end of the fastener, the angle at the end of the section straighten, unbend on the piping and secure the two ends of the clasp double reverse stitching at the base of the angle (Fig. 54,g). The lower sections of thepodborov bends and zastrugivajut as well as the internal, and then attached to the main details in a few places with hidden stitches.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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