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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 14.4 Treatment of the sides and clasps


  Processing of the clasp with loops in the seam Lacanau strap. To handle the zipper (Fig. 58,a) with loops in the seam Lacanau bars required shelf and strap in two parts. 
On parts of the strap outline of the seam (seam), one of parts of the strap from the inside outlining the middle line, and on the other side for the edge of the intended line of joints - the location of the loops (Fig. 58,b).
Part fold the straps right sides inside, aligning the chalk line seam loops on one side of the strap with the intended line of mid on the other part, and grind a part with the identified loops, making skipped stitches at the locations of the loops and fixing the beginning and the end loop reverse machine stitching. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Seam in products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau and products cotton fabrics are laid on two sides. A portion of the strap with scheduled hinges are folded along the middle face inward and grind the corners at the top and bottom (depending on model), while neprilichnye slice bent in the direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm Width of the seam grinding of 0.7 - 1 cm. Sections of seams in the corners trimmed, the corners turn out, correct, and in the products of wool and silk fabrics priorivet. Bent edge of the outer part of the plate in the articles of wool and silk tissue zametyvayut manual stitches, having a bend near the hinges, and sew hidden stitches with a length of 0.2 - 0.3 cm (Fig. 58,).
Products of cotton cloths, the edge strips should be hemmed without prior zamatyvala.
The bar put on the front right side shelf front side down and pritachivajut the upper portion, by bending the bottom. Joint width 0,7 - 1 cm the cut of the bottom shelves bend towards the inside in intended line with the ACC cut inside on 0,5 - 0,7 cm seam unbend and in the products of woolen and silk fabrics, iron inthe side straps. If the bottom corner in the outer part of the plate obtain, and the inner part of the strap is applied along the middle face inside and grind, by bending a raw cut in the side on the inside0,7 - 1 cm Width of the seam grinding of 0.7 - 1 cm.
Sections of seams in the corner cut, the angle of turn on the front side, straighten, products of wool and silk fabrics spawn simultaneously zametyvayut bent edge. Bent edge or sew hidden stitches clips machine stitch from the front side in seam primaqiune strap. The clasp ready priorivet.
  Processing of zipper products with the collar. Part of main part pile, right sides inside, call the slices in the manufacture of individual orders smatyvay and grind to markup that defines the end of the clasp. Weld width of 1-1,5 see mass production of the main part of grind no prior smachivaniya. Thread smachivaniya on the site of the weld is removed, seam rautureau, and the bent edges at the fastening area iron.

From the inside the primary press under the edges of the zipper enclose zipper lock to press the slices in sales primetyvajut individual orders and mass production scribbled without prior primitivne with speciallegs (Fig. 59, a), with lines at equal or different distances from the edges depending on the model. The line at the end of the clasp should to go perpendicular to the incision at a distance of 0.1-0.5 cm from the lastlinks zipper. In the articles attached to the waist, with Velcro,ending below the waist line, in order to avoid falling under links the clasps of the linen from the inside pull the valve from the base material. The strip of basic material under the flap of a width equal to 7 - 8 cm and length depending on the length of the clasp along bend in the middle, fold the face inward, equating slices, and grind the ends. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the corners trimmed, the valve turn on the front side, straighten seams, the valve priorivet. Processed valve enclose from the inside of the clasp, equating raw cutvalve cuts the fasteners from the narrow finishing line the main part bent and the valve pritachivajut, padding with stitching side bent edge of the main part close to the stitching primaqiune the zipper (Fig. 59,b). Allowed primaqiune valve simultaneously with pritachivajut zipper.
  Processing of zipper products without a collar. In products without a collar (Fig. 59) when processing
neck with facing flatlock seam medium, resoluzione and autoimune bent edges at the fastening area perform as well as when processing of zipper products with the collar. The upper ends zipper pritachivajut to the bent edges of allowances for processing clasps so that the line is held at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the neck (Fig. 59, g). The inner sections of the piping of the neck bend in the direction of the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge.
The ends of the piping pritachivajut to the slices of allowance for the processing of the clasp, folding them right sides inward and equating slices. Joint width of 0.7 cm and Then cuts the seam allowance and the facing of the neck bent on the front side of the product, fold right sides inside, equating slices, and grind the neck and the upper corners of the clasp. The facing folded to the inside of the product, angles, fasteners and seams and straighten priorivet, forming edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm in the direction of the piping (Fig. 59, d).
Nastraivanie bent edges of the fastener product to zipper perform with the help of a special foot, individually the production of pre-namachivajut. 

For processing fasteners, shown in the figure, B0, and need the following parts: one or two piping for handling slit front, zipper and two piping-podborta.
First treated with slit front. Obtachku applied to the front side of the front and grind the cut fasteners withof the main details, making the rounded end of the clasp. Distance between the lines can be 0.3 - 0.8 cm depending on the model and from the value of links zipper. The detail between the lines is cut, making two the notch in the curve. The facing folded inside out forehand, straighten the seam forming edging in the direction of the piping with a width of 0.1 cm, and priorivet (Fig. B0, 6).
The front slit can be treated with two obrazkami with piping from obracac (Fig. 60, in) according to the type of loop (see, Fig. 53).
Piping-podborta fold, right sides inside, equalizing sections, and sew from the bottom up to the notch defining end of the clasp. Width seam 0.5-0.7 cm, if the edges of the clasp is machined without finishing lines, and if the finishing line, the weld width should equal the width the finishing stitches plus 0,5 - 0,7 cm Seam up to the notch rautureau and the notch up iron the edges to the width of the seam. Internal sections otacek-podborov bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the bent region; the articles of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue slices overcast on a special machine. To press the edges of obcutek inner side pritachivajut zipper. When participarii zipper put on the front side piping lock down and scribble a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices piping edge and zipper.
Piping-podborta with pricechannel zipper placed on the inside out forehand inside out down undermanufacture according to individual orders primetyvajut, combining the edge and piping. On the edge of the slit of the clasp scribble on the front side the distance from the edges provided by the model (Fig. 60, g, d), while under the line enter the main part of the slit facing the front the zipper and the facing-podbor.
During the processing of a fastener without stitch finishing the edge of otacek-podborov with zipperpritachivajut to the facing cut of the front, by bending the main part and podbot, the line lay in the seam of primaqiune zipper. Internal the edges of otacek-podborov attached to the main details in a few placeshidden stitches. 
The clasp ready priorivet.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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