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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 17.1 Connecting the collar with the neck


Coupling the fold-over collar with neckline products with flaps. In products of cotton and silk fabrics easypayday (Fig. 65, a) top angle side (the ledge) to grind simultaneously with the connection of the collar with the neck (Fig. 65,b). For this podbot folding with a shelf, right sides inside, equating slices, and grind the ledges on the part of podborov to the notch. Joint width 0,7 cm. in the manufacture according to individual orders before ultimanium collar in his mouth pre-pinned to the product pins, combining marks. When matiwane collar pins alternately removed from the tissue.Between the shelf and podborta about the notch defining a ledge, put the collar, having its upper collar up, and stachivaya it together with podborta to the shoulder seam or the inner edge of podborta, making the fit of the collar over the shoulder seams.
About the shoulder seam on the seam allowance of the upper collar netscout, the upper collar and folded down the back into the neck stachivaya lower collar. The other end of the collar in the area from the shoulder seam to the ledge stachivaya as well, not taking the thread. After vrachevanie collar side turn on the front side, the corners of the sides straighten, unbend collar. On the sections from the ledges up to the shoulder seams seam vrachevanie collar features between the shelf and podborom, and the area between the shoulder seams, seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar are bent to the side of the collar.Slice the rack of the upper collar in the area between the shoulder seams, bends so that the bent edge of a closed line of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar, and scribbled it at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge. Collar ready priorivet.
If the Board in the articles of wool or other thick fabric, fully processed, podborta bent on the front side of the product, the finished collar is put between the shelf and podborom, positioning the lower collar to the product, and the top to podborta, equating sections. Stachivaya lower collar into the neck and without removing his thread, pritachivajut the upper collar to podborta (Fig., 65,). Seams primaqiune the top of the collar to podborta and seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar sections from the shoulder seams to the ledges rautureau (Fig. 65, g), the rest of the seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar, i.e.in the area between the shoulder seams iron towards the bottom of the collar. On the sections from the ledges up to the shoulder seams of the lower sections of resuturing seams fasten machine stitching, and in the manufacture for individual orders manually at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam connection. Slice the rack of the upper collar between the shoulder seams to buckle at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge, covering the stitching vrachevanie the bottom of the collar. The stitching on the front side of the product needs to pass on the basic details below vrachevanie the bottom seam of the collar is approximately 0.1 cmCollar ready priorivet.
In the products of silk and legkopolirujushchiesja tissue before connection of the collar with the neck side must be completely processed. The collar is folded with the product, aligning the front side of the lower collar against the face of the product and equating sections, and stachivaya lower collar from ledge to ledge from the bottom of the collar. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm.Then at the end of the collar put the ledge at the sides and the top collar added to podborom, right sides inside, equalizing the sections of the collar with the seam of the neck, and pritachivajut the upper collar to the seam vrachevanie bottom of collar from end to shoulder seam or the inner edge of podborta (Fig. 65,d). After primaqiune and screwing out one end of the collar pritachivajut and twist the other end.Slice the rack of the upper collar bends inwards at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge or sew hidden stitches manually, so that the bent edge of the top collar closed line of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar. The stitching on the front side of the product needs to pass on the basic details below vrachevanie the bottom seam of the collar is approximately 0.1 cm Collar ready priorivet.
 


  The connection of the collar with the neck in the jewellery clasp to the top. In products from fine fabrics with a zip to the top when connecting the collar with the neck (Fig. 66, a) of podborta or allowances for processing the sides, replacing podborta do narrow so that the inner edge of podborta or mating side of the shelves blocked the point of the ledge not less than 1.5 - 3 cm.
Before connecting the collar with the neck of the bead to be processed. The collar is folded with the product, aligning the front side of the lower collar against the face of the product stack the slices and stachivaya from the bottom of the collar (Fig. 66, b), aligning the notch. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm. in the manufacture according to individual orders of the lower collar previously umatyvaet without landing or make the landing of the lower collar area of the shoulder joints (at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm to the side of the neck back and 3 to 4 cm to the side of the neck shelves). The size of the landing depends on the design of the collar.After vrachevanie lower collar thread ultimania removed. The seam is bent towards the bottom of the collar. Slice. strut top collar to buckle at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the inside a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edges, closing the seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar.
The products thick fabric collar placed on the underside of the products of the upper collar down, equalizing sections, and stachivaya upper collar from ledge to ledge from the side of the collar (Fig. BB,in), enclosing the ends of the collar seam under the edge of podborov or allowances, replacement podborta. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm edge of the lower collar bends inwards at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edges, closing the seam vrachevanie the top of the collar, with stitching from the inside of the product should be below the seam vrachevanie the top of the collar at 0.1 cm at neckline shelves and back.
If the upper collar is cut wider on the bottom 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 66,g), t, e with allowance for processing seam vrachevanie changes the way of connecting the collar with the neck. In this case, when processing the boards grind only the outer edge and the ledge up to the notch, but on the front side of the bead after grinding not cutting at all.
The collar is folded with the product of the lower collar against the face of the product so that the end of the collar located at the point of the ledge between the shelf and podborom, call slices the bottom stand collar with neck slices products (cut strut top collar must be cut the racks of the lower collar on the allowance of 1 - 1.5 cm) and stachivaya lower collar into the neck with the side of the product (at the same time grind the ledges, if they were previously not processed).
Side turn on the front side, the corners of the sides straighten, unbend collar, seam vrachevanie collar fitted to the side of the product, an allowance of the upper collar round the seam (Fig. 66, d) and scribbled it on the product at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge.
 


  Coupling the fold-over collar neckline with piping. To handle turn-down collar (Fig. 67, a) part of the piping is folded, right sides inside, stack the slices and grind. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Seams in the products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau cotton is laid out on two sides. The inner sections of the piping bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the bent edge. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissues slice the pre-overcast on a special machine, the ends of the piping pritachivajut to the inner edges of podborov. Iron seams to the side of podborov.
The collar is applied on the front side of the product down the lower collar, then placing the facing from the top of the collar face down, by bending the inner edge of podborov on the front side, cuts call and vracevic collar in the neckline with a facing (Fig. 67, b). Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm and Then the corners of the boards turn out, the seam vrachevanie collar scribbled on the facing, then folded inside out of the product, facing close the seam and priorivet collar.The inner edge of the piping attached to the shoulder seams by machine stitching parallel to the shoulder seam, and the back and the front - manually hidden stitches between the middle front and back and shoulder seams and the middle front and back the products without clasps with a large neck. In the products of wool, silk and fabrics of synthetic fibers and the inner edge of the piping can be attached along the length of the blindstitch machine with advanced primitivna edge piping.
Allowed to tacuati collar in the neckline with piping, cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. The bake may be double (Fig. 67, C) and single (Fig. 67, g) depending on thickness of fabric. For products from fine fabrics bake cut out of base material and for products made of thick fabrics bake cut out of a thin silk or cotton fabric in the color of the basic material. Stitch collar to neck using a bakey perform as well as stitch the collar to the neckline with piping.In the setting of collar seam round the piping, the cut bakey bends inside and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge. When processing double piping round the seam binding and scribbled on the fold bakey at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge. The width of the borders in finished form - 1 - 1.5 cm.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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