Tuesday, 23.04.2024, 18:17
Welcome Guest | Sign Up | Log In

All about sewing

Site menu


Section categories
Sew yourself
The ABCs of sewing
Women's clothing
Sewing for little
Designing men's outerwear
Cutting tailoring modeling women's lightweight clothing
Cutting and sewing of women clothes
Technology women's and children's light clothing
Technology of sewing production
Women's and children's dress
A hundred styles of women's dresses
Fashion tops
The basics of the art of designing clothes
Design basics clothing
Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing
The manufacture of men's and children's costumes
Manufacturer of women's and children's outerwear
Art beautiful dress
According to the laws of beauty
The art of sewing
Design women's coat
Design basics outerwear
National clothes
Search
Log In
Site friends
Statistics

Total online: 1
Guests: 1
Users: 0

Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 17.2 Connecting the collar with the neck


  Processing and connecting to the neck of the stand-up collar. To handle the stand-up collar (Fig. 68, a) collar bend along in the middle, fold the face inward, equating sections, and grind the ends (Fig. 68, b). Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see
In collars-racks with tie ends simultaneously with the grinding all grind and equity edge to nasechek defining the beginning and the end of vrachevanie the stand-up collar at the neck (figure 68, b). The seams in the corners pruned. Turn the collar on the front side with special fixtures, seams and straighten priorivet. When connection with the neck of the inner part of the strut is folded facial party with the seamy side of the product and stachivaya from the collar, combining the notch. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Seam folded in the direction of the collar. Slicethe exterior of the rack bends at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the inside a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge, covering the stitching vrachevanie the inner part of the stand (Fig. 68,g). Collar ready priorivet.
In the fold-over collar with a stitched stand first connect collar. In this case, the rack cut out of the twoparts - external and internal. 
Depending on the model can be cut strip in the rack.
Of the rack folded, right sides inside, between them put the machined collar (Fig. 68,d), equating slices the outer sections of the rack, grind the ends of the strut and at the same time pritachivajut collar. 
Combine this collar with the neckline the same as collar. 

  The connection of the single collar with the neck. Single collars connect with the neck with piping, double or bakey single, double and lapped seam and bridging the seam using a special machine zigzag stitch. Connection the collar neckline with otacek, single (Fig. 69, a) or double borders (Fig. 69,6) perform the same as the connection dual the collar with the neck.
When connecting double seam processed collar underside applied on the front side of the product, equating slices, and stachivaya from the collar. Joint width 0,3 - 0,5 cm Then the seam allowance trimmed, collar folded inside out products set the seam and positioning the line of stitching on the fold, and stachivaya second stitching on the collar at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 69). Seam priorivet to reduce the thickness; in the finished product collar the front side to close the seam.
When connecting lapped seam at the collar underside applied on the front side of the product, releasingthe cut of the collar the cut of the neck 0.5 cm, and stachivaya in the neck with side of the collar, aligning the notch. The width of the seam from the collar 1 cm, and from the main parts of a 0.5 cm seam Allowance from the collar trace the seam, folded it to the side of the product and scribbled on a distance of 0.1 m from the bent edge. Seam priorivet, at the same time priorivet collar (Fig, 69, g).
When connecting the bridging seam with using a special machine collar is applied to the face the underside of the product, equalizing sections, and stachivaya it in the neck from the side the collar, aligning the notch. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Collar bent, the seam folded in the direction of the product and scribbled on the slices seam vrachevanie a collar on a special machine zigzag stitch (Fig. 69, d). Priorivet seam, a folded collar on the front side of the product, close the seam vrachevanie and again priorivet. 
  Treatment of the neck in the products without collar. Products collarless neckline cuts can be processed obecnym seam; the facing, cut to shape of the neck; the facing with piping; edging seam; facing, cut at an angle of 45' to the warp - piping. 

During processing of a neck facing, cut to shape of the neck (Fig. 70, a), of the piping fold right sides inside, equalizing the slices and grind. Joint width of 0.5 - For 0.7 see 
the Seams in the products of woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre rautureau, of cotton - laid out on two sides.
The inner sections of obcutek bend in the direction of the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent region. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue slices previously overcast on a special machine. 
If the product processed closure from the neck of the front or the back, the ends of the piping pritachivajut to obtachka (podborta or allowances for processing the clasp). Joint width 0,7 cm. the Joints are bent in the direction of obcutek fasteners (podborov).
The facing applied to the front side of the product face down equating sections, the joints grinding obrazek compatible shoulder seams product and grind the slice of the neck. Joint width 0,7 cm Seam on the concave lines in the inner corners netscout before reaching the lines by 0.1 - 0.2 see the Facing folded seam folded in the direction of the piping and scribbled with front side piping at a distance of 0.1 - 0. cm from the seam grinding. Then folded the facing to the wrong side of the product and priorivet, forming side piping edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm (Fig. 70, b).
Internal the edges of the piping attached to the shoulder seams machine stitches, parallel to the shoulder and to the back, and the front - manually hidden stitches, placing them between the middle front and back and shoulder joints, and products with a large neck - in the middle of the front and backless. 
In the products of woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre inner edge of obcutek sometimesattached to the main parts of the product on the blindstitch machine for the entire length of the piping.
During processing of a neck facing with padding of nonwoven material (Fig. 70,in) gasket pritachivajut simultaneously with the grinding of the neck, positioning it to the underside of the main part" 
In products of transparent fabrics with increased fall threads of the neck it is recommended to treat the facing, cut at an angle of 45' to the thread the basics.
The facing applied to the front side of the product face side down and grind the neck (Fig, 70,g). The seam grinding guide in the direction of the piping. Cut piping bend towards the inside 0.5-0.7 cm and the bent edge of the cover the seam, overlapping the line grinding of 0.2 cm, primetyvajut and fix it with the front side machine stitch the seam primaqiune piping or at a distance of 0.1 cm from it in the main part. The facing folded to the inside of the product, the seam straighten and priorivet, forming the edging of main part width of 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
The facing is attached only at the shoulder seams. 
When treatment of the neck the facing with piping finishing of the fabric (Fig. 70, d) part strips for Kant and the ends of her grind. Joint width 0,7 cm Seams rautureau or decomposed. Allowed the ends of the strips sew it pritachivajut the main details at neckline. 
In products with finished closure from the neck to the ends of the strips are not grind and bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, fold along the middle underside on the inside, equating sections.
Prepared thus the strip of edging applied to the front side of the product bend down and pritachivajut on the strip at a distance from the bend strips, provided by the model, departing from the ends on 3 to 4 cm primechanie the ends of the strips, sew the seam and laid it out, then fold again in half and pritachivajut on the remaining section. The width of the seam from the products should to be equal to 0.7, see
In products with finished closure primaqiune strips should start from the edges of the fastener by bending podbot or the facing fastener on the front side of the product. The inner edge of the piping bends inward at the 0,Z - 0,5 cm and zastrugivajut, retreating 0.1 cm from the edge. After primaqiune Kant obtachku neck put on front side of the product face down, equalizing sections, and grind the neck with the side of the product, paving the stitching in the seam primaqiune Kant (Fig. 70, e). The facing folded to the inside of the product seam and edge straighten and priorivet. The inner edge of the pipingattached to the area of the shoulder seams machine stitch the sections shoulder seam and neckline in a few places manually hidden stitches. For greater prominence in Kant can be attached to the cord. Cord put inside the bars for Kant to its primaqiune. Primaqiune strips for the edging with a cord is carried out using special fit for a snug fit of the cord and roveto Kant. Treated neck priorivet.

For treatment of the neck edging seam (Fig. 71, a) obtachku cuts out on the shape of the neck at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. Part of the piping and tips grind off so that the line is passed parallel to the warp threads. In the products that do not have clasps on the neck, allowed the ends of the piping sew simultaneously with the grinding of the neck. The seams are cut, leaving allowance of 0.5 - 0.7 see
The seams in the products of wool, silk fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre rautureau and products of cotton cloths laid out on two sides. Width piping depends on the width of Kant and the method of processing. In the products of woolen fabrics treated with the neck edging seam with one the open cut. The inner edge of the piping overcast on special the car (Fig. 71, 6).
In products with processed zip cap ends of piping at the edges of the clasp bend towards the inside on 1 see the Facing applied to the front side of the product face down, equalizing sections, and grind the neck with side piping. Width seam is 0,5 - 0,7 cm (depending on model).
The articles pull from neck obtachku with Nesmachnyi ends pritachivajut, departing from the ends on 3 - 4 see Neprilichnye the ends of the strips to grind. The seam is laid on the two sides and pritachivajut obtachku on the remaining section. Obtachku folded inside out products, skirting and seam forming edge. Kant fix machine stitch from the front side of the product into the seam primaqiune piping. The neck ready priorivet.
For treatment of neck edging seam with bias binding cut out the bias tape at an angle of 45' to warp width depending on the width of the edging (double width Kant plus 1 - 1.5 cm). Okantovany of the neck is performed on a machine with a special device a single line (Fig. 71,). 
In products without clasps around the neck to the grinding medium slices of the back so that when further processing of the ends of the edging came in seam.
The top and bottom edges of the edging in the middle seam should be on the same level. The middle seam allowance to attach the top to the product stitching across the border at a distance of 0,Z - 0.4 cm from the slices seam (Fig. 71, g).
The ends of the edging can go to the ties (Fig. 71, d) the length of which depends on the model. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue the ends of the tie knot, easypayday - cut without further processing. In products with closure treated podborany, okantovany of the neck is recommended to do this before grinding the sides. After processing, the sides of the upper sections of podborov bends inward so to bent edge overlaps the stitching of the edging of the neck 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and fix them with machine stitch from the front side of the product for line the binding of the neck (Fig. 71, e).
In the absence of special devices are treated the neck edging seam with closed sections are often folded in half with a facing - strip of cloth, cut at an angle of 45 ' to the warp threads (figure 71, j). Part of the piping grind off so that the line is passed parallel to the warp threads. Seams cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and laid out on two sides. The ends of the piping can not sew. Obtachku bend along the middle with wrong side inside, slices call. Cut one end of the piping bends inside on 1 cm and placed on the front side of the product fold downequating sections of piping and manholes. The neck grind from the side piping. Joint width depends on the model, with one end of the piping (raw) have to go for another 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 71, h). The facing folded to the side of the back, round seam, forming an edge, and fix it machine stitch from the front side in seam primaqiune piping. The stitching from the inside should definitely get bend piping and stitching must take place at a distance of not more than 0,S cm, fromregion. The neck ready priorivet.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
Views: 432 | Rating: 0.0/0

Total comments: 0
avatar