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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 18.1 the processing of the sleeves, connecting them with the product

Sleeve light clothing can be one-piece, double seam (with elbow and front seams or outer and inner), darted, soft folds, undercuts, Boothe. Bottom of sleeves can be smooth, with different clasps, end with a stitched fold-over cuffs and or t, d. 
Tucks, folds, Assembly, undercuts and the smocking on the sleeves treated in the same way as to other details. 
  The connection sections of the sleeves. Of the sleeve folded right sides inside, stack the slices andgrind off. Joint width 1,2 - 1,5 cm in the manufacture of products for custom grinding is performed priorsmachivanie.
In mass production, the grinding is performed on smachiwausa-overlock machine. Joint width 0,7-0,8 cm Front sections sleeveless grind off from the upper part of the sleeve and elbow with the side of the lower part of the sleeve making the fit of the upper part of the plot elbow between nasecki. The seams in the products of wool, silk and fabrics with synthetic fibre rautureau or iron in according to the model, and in the products of cotton fabrics folded on the side. Sections of the seams are overcast on a special machine. When processingvrazalic stitches cuts buttonhole is recommended to be before grinding.
In according to the model, the seams can be decorated with stitching, ie, be nastronie. Nastraivanie perform with the help of special devices at the distance prescribed by the model.
The bottom sleeveless can be processed by obrazkami, welts, piping to the connection sections of the sleeve at the open line (depending on model). Sections of sleeves, the bottom of which is processed at the open line, connect so that the treated bottom edge of the seam coincide. Allowance the seam at the bottom of the sleeve attached to the sleeve double reverse stitching length of 0.7-1 cm, positioning it across the borders (outline) in the distance 0,Z - 0.4 cm from the slices of the sleeves. The seam allowance should not be visible from the front side.. 

  to handle the bottom of the short sleeves (Fig. 72,a). Before treatment of bottom sleeve seam bodybu specify the length of the sleeves and outline the cut lines and bending the bottom.
Cut the bottom of the sleeve to bend towards the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, then bend again at the value provided by the model, and in products of cotton fabrics zastrugivajut on sanding machine for a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold (Fig. 72,6), and in the products of woolen and silk fabrics, sew on a special machine blind stitch (Fig. 72). During the processing of the bottom of the sleeves in the products of rich wool and silk fabrics (Fig. 72,d) slice of the bottom of the sleeve is treated with a seam bodybu open cut for the sleeve hem bend inthe direction of the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from edge, then the bottom of the sleeve to bend towards the inside in the width bending in the manufacture of individual orders zametyvayut, and then sew on a special machine across the width of the sleeve. In the absence of a special machine is allowed to attach edge hand stitches through every 4 to 5 cm.
In the manufacture of products for individual orders cut of the bottom of the sleeve can be processed with silk braid. One the edge of the tapes scribbled on the cut of the bottom part, having a line in a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge of the braid, the Bottom of the sleeves bend to the side the inside on the value provided by the model, zametyvayut and sew on a special machine or by hand.
In sleeves with cuffs (Fig. 72,d) ACC bottom of the sleeve increased to twice the width of the lapel. Processing bottom perform as well as in the sleeves and loose. After processing the lapel, sleeve are bent on the front side (Fig. 72,e) and attach the inner part of the lapel hand stitch to the seam of sleeve every 45 see
During the processing of the bottom of the sleeves, seam itagiba with unfastened pleat on the wrong side of the sleeve outline auxiliary line on distance depending on the width of the cuff. Cut the bottom of the sleeves bend in side the inside and call it from the intended line. Then sleeve round cut bending and zastrugivajut it, with a line from the bend on distance depending on the model (Fig, 72, W, z). The allowance for ACC bent on the continued sleeves and priorivet. 

Before treatment hem sleeves elastic tape (Fig. 73, a) first clarify the length of the sleeves and determine the size of the allowance for ACC.
Value allowance for ACC should equal to width of tape plus 0,Z cm, plus width of bending the inner edge, i.e. 0,7 - 1 cm on the model designed multiple series of elastic tape, the amount of the allowance ACC increases accordingly. In this case, the bottom sleeve can to be handled by the facing. The ends of the elastic tape connect patch seam sanding machine zigzag stitching across the band. The amount of time one end to the other 1.5 - 2 cm Slice of bottom sleeve bend towards the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm, and overcast loop forthe pull of the ribbon on a special machine. Then the bottom of the sleeves bend in side of the reverse side by marking and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from bent edges, at the same time putting the braid (Fig. 73, b). Width bending equal to the width of elastic tape plus 0,2 - 0,3 cm in the setting several rows of elastic tape at bottom sleeve lay several parallel lines with distance equal to the width elastic braid plus 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
When zatrachivaniya cutoff allowance or piping, i.e., in the last lines, at the same time put elastic band. The rest of the braid prodelyvat manually. The ends of the ribbon sew trim seam machine zigzag stitchingacross tape or fasten manually 12 - 15 stitches. 
In according to the model at the bottom of the sleeve can be wide, often double frill. In this case, the bottom sleeve may have seam allowance on the ruffle plus allowance for zatrachivaniya elastic tape or processed the facing, cut to shape of bottom of the sleeves.
When processing bottom sleeve hem allowance of sleeve bend inside at the markings and lay a line from the bend at a distance equal to the width of the ruffles (Fig. 73,). Then cut the seam allowance to buckle inside 0.7 - 1 cm, put elastic braid and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from bent region.
During the processing of the bottom facing (Fig. 73, g) first clarify the length of the piping and sew the ends. The seam is laid out. Obtachku applied to the front side of the sleeve facedown, equating slices and grind. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see Facing unbend inside out. Straighten the seam, forming an edge with a width of 0.1 cm, in the direction piping. In the products of woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics with the contentsynthetic fibers seam priorivet. At the bottom of the sleeve lay first, one line at a distance equal to the width of the ruffles, and then,bending the cut piping 0.7 - 1 cm inside the second at a distance of 0.1 cmfrom bent edges, simultaneously putting an elastic band. Instead braid, depending on the model, can be attached to the lace with machined ends.
Sleeves without cuffs hem can be processed edging seam on the machine with a special fixture or without tools similar to the processing of the neck to the products without collar (see Fig. 79). 
During the processing of the bottom of the sleeves binding of finishing the main fabric cut out bake at 45 ' to the thread the basics. Processing is performed on a two needle machine adapted for felling borders. Simultaneously with nastraivanie bakey is tucking her cuts and lower edge of sleeve at 0.7 cm inside (Fig, 73, d).
In the absence of a needle machine with fixture first produce grinding the lower edge of sleeve binding, imposing bake face on the underside of the sleeve. Then bake turn on the front side of the sleeve seam and straighten priorivet, forming the edging of borders with a width of 0.1 cm, the upper section bakey bends inward (to the value depending on the stitch felling) and scribbled on the distance from the edgedepending on the model.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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