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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 18.2 Handling of sleeves and connecting them with the product


  Handle the bottom of the sleeve cuffs. Cuffs can to be straight or curved, closed or with machined ends, with clasp for cuff links or buttons, stitched or folded. Direct banded cuffs cut one-piece (Fig. 74,a). A closed cuff fold across the middle face inward, equalize cuts and grind them (Fig, 74 b). Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7, see the products wool and silk fabrics seam priorivet and products cotton fabrics are laid on two sides the cuff turn on the front side, fold along the middle underside and inside priorivet.
If the model ends cuff should hook on loops and buttons, obtenue loop handle on the upper side of one of the ends of the cuff (Fig. 74,in). Processing loops, see page 99. Cuff fold along the middle face inward, equating sections, and grind the ends, putting in according to the model loop from vetochnogo or braided cord. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the corners trimmed the cuff turn on the front side, straighten seams and priorivet. The lining of the cuff on the site obtekanii loop is cut, the slices bendsinside, forming the edge of otacek, and sutured manually hidden stitches.
The cuff consists of two parts, process obecnym seam. First, grind off the ends of the separate cuffs and the ends of the lining seam with a width of 0.5 - 0.7, see the articles of wool and silk fabrics stitchesrautureau, and in the products of other tissues decompose. Inside cuffs put the lining, aligning the side and seams,grinding all, stack the slices and grind the top of the slices. In the cuffs, which the upper edge of the figure, the seam on the concave areas, netscout, cuff turn on the front side, straighten seams and priorivet, forming Kant in the direction of the lining.
Sleeve with sleeve without slit the free passage of the hands leave the area where the cuff is notpritachivajut. This plot is treated with the seam itagiba with a shut cut.
Banded cuffs (Fig. 74,g) are placed on the underside of the sleeves lining down and pritachivajut from the lining, putting on the sleeve nadechka folds or forming Assembly, if provided for model. In the sleeves without cutting the cuff pritachivajut to the ends of the the treated area fell under the line of protecive lining on 0.5-0.7 cm (Fig. 74, d). Joint width 0,7 cm. Sections of the seam are bent to the side lining.
Cut the upper side of the cuff to buckle inside 0.5 cm so that bent edge of a closed line of primaqiune lower hand cuffs, and scribbled it at a distance of 0.1 cm from bent edge (Fig. 74, e).
In the sleeves without cutting the seam of the sleeve is recommended sew after primaqiune cuffs. Sections of the seam at the bottom of the sleeve attach.to the sleeve for sanding machine double reverse stitching.
In the manufacture of apparel according to individual orders allowed to participate to the sleeve upper side of the cuff, and cuts the lower side cuff bends, closing the line of primaqiune cuffs, and hem manually hidden podrywaczki stitches (Fig. 74, g).
In sleeves with closed cuffs, pull-in products from cotton fabrics, knitted fabrics and other materials, depending on the model of the lower and top cuff can be Brittany on smachiwausa-overlock machine or sanding machine with subsequent eyelet sections. For this stitched closed cuff is applied to the face the front side of the sleeve (Fig. 74, h), and sleeves with folded cuffs the cuff is applied face down on the wrong side of the sleeve and pritachivajut cuff, equating sections. Joint width 0,7-0,8 cm

Fold-over cuff (Fig. 75,a) you can connect hoses with a scythe bakey, piping or without. The ends of obcutek grind. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 see the Seam in the products of woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics with the content synthetic fibers rautureau, and the products of cotton fabrics are laid out.
The inner sections of otacek, cut to shape the bottom of the sleeves, bends towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge. The cuff is ready to wear ready sleeve, aligning the front side of the cuff lining with an outer shell sleeves, the cuff put on a face facing to the cuff,stack the slices and pritachivajut from obracac (Fig. 75, b). Width the seam at 0.7 cm Seam folded in the direction of the piping and scribbled in the distance 0,2-0,3 cm, the Facing folded to the inside of the sleeve, straighten the seam, formingedging of the sleeve with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm and priorivet. The inner edge of the piping attached to the sleeve manually in several places hidden stitches or sew along the entire length of piping or sew on a special machine hidden stitches.
Connection cuffs sleeve can be performed using double or single borders. Striped fabric double borders bend along the middle underside and inside pritachivajut well as the connection of the cuff with the sleeve, with piping. After primaqiune cuffs and borders to the sleeve seam folded in side sleeves, leg cover the seam and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold bakey tube and fold back the cuff (Fig. 75). Internal slices of otacek, cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads, bends and scribbled on the sleeve at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge, by bending when this cuff to the side of the sleeves. Bottom of sleeves and cuffs priorivet.
The products from thick fabrics, except legkopolirujushchiesja in order to avoid excessive thickness, it is allowed to participate folded cuffs without obracac (Fig. 75, g). When processing this way the cuff putinside the sleeve, aligning the front side cuffs with wrong side of sleeve, stack the slices and pritachivajut the lower and upper cuff from the side sleeves. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Slices seam overcast on specialthe car (Fig. 75, d). The suture is folded towards sleeves and sometimes scribbled on the sleeve at a distance of 0.2 - 0,S cm from the edge. The cuff is then folded onthe front side of the sleeve. Bottom sleeve priorivet.

  Treatment of bottom of sleeves without cuffs. Bottom of sleeves without cuffs treated with a facing (Fig. 7b,a). Internal sections of piping of the bottom of the sleeves in the products of legkopolirujushchiesja fabrics overcast on a special machine or zastrugivajut seam bodybu.
In mass production of the facing applied to the front side of the bottom sleeve and scribbled on the sleeve with the help of special devices the ACC cut piping inside 0.5 - 0.7 cm in the absence a special device, the facing applied to the front side sleeve, the sections of which are not Stacey, face inward, equating slices, and grind the bottom of the sleeves from the piping. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seam folded in the direction of the piping and scribbled on the front side piping at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. Sleeve folded front sideinside, equalizing the sections of the sleeves and the piping, and sew, at the same timegrind off the ends of piping. Seam piecing together the ends of the piping and seam sleeves the section length of 3 cm rautureau. The inner edge of the bend in the piping the direction of the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from region. For products made of cotton fabrics inner edge piping handle to the connection sections of the sleeves. The facing folded inside out sleeves, seam down the sleeves, straightened, forming an edging to the side of the piping with a width of 0.2 cm, and priorivet.
The inner edge of the piping attach each 4 - 5 cm manually hidden stitches, making five or six stitches in each clip, or sew the entire length piping on a special machine hidden stitches.
In sleeves with clasp in the crease (Fig. 76, b) mark first two folds. On the front one folds impose a processed loop out vetochnogo or braided cord and attach by marking four or five stitches each end. Then lay the crease on nadechka and sew inside out or scribbled on the front side at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold, positioning the ends of the loops inside the folds.
Second the crease on the sleeve make for strength sewing buttons. Flatlock or nastraivanie second folds perform the same as the first. Then grind the bottom of the sleeve facing and sew the seam of the sleeve as well as in sleeves without fasteners. 
Sleeves with slits (Fig. 76, C) loop of vetochnogo or braided cord attached to the edges of the incision, positioning the ends of the loops in the direction of the cut. The facing of the hem for sleeves with slits cut out along with a facing cut, so grinding the edges of an incision carry out simultaneously with the grinding of the bottom of the sleeves after stitching sections of the sleeve.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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